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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

I am new to riding as well as working on my bike :smile2:
I have a 05 Bonneville and it started giving me some trouble.
It runs for about 15 minutes, then I lose all throttle and eventually it dies...

The first time it happens I took the carbs off and cleaned them, which was not the issue since they were quite clean, checked the air filter and then for air leaks.
I started walking thought all the fault finding stops in my book but after a month and a half the only issues I fixed were the ones I caused from being so new :smile2:

So everything I am reading points to 3 things, an air leak? CPS sensor? Or the Igniter...

I checked the resistance on the CPS sensor and it was in spec. When i took the carbs off I replaced the gaskets and rubber connectors so I don’t think its an air leak.. Which leads me to think it might be the igniter?

Any help on this would be great! Thank you
 

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How does it run once on the road? If the stalling only occurs at idle, first check the idle. You've come to the right place, someone will shortly be able to help on the electrics, but the ignitors rarely cause issues, unless you're quite heavy and the seat is pressing down on it. Check both the seat and ignitor for abrasion marks. If so, carve out a hole in the seat pan.

Good Luck -
 

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After fowling @LapinAgile 's advice check the other components. Often the CPS will check good when cool and fail after it warms up. You have to be quick and check it when it fails (open circuit). It may check good again after it cools a few minutes. The ignition coils can be checked with an ohm meter also.
 

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Hi
If the engine suddenly stops when riding and I do mean as if the ignition has been turned of, it probably is the CPS.
This happened to me recently. It took about 2 hours to go 10 miles home !!. When the engine had cooled it would run for a short time and then suddenly stop and so on. I confirmed this the next day by putting bike on side stand, removing right side engine cover. Only a small amount of oil dribble. You will need a new gasket !. The hardest part is trying to get at the CPS connector . I used a meter and the resistance was right, but after heating the sensor with a hot air gun it went bad. Left it to cool for a few minutes and it was ok again. Replaced the sensor and all good. Hope that helps you.
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How does it run once on the road?-
When it was riding it it seemed to do pretty good on the road. When I was in low gear it seemed a little sluggish but not to bad... Then right before it died I lost all throttle... as soon as I gave it a little gas it just died.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you guys for all the help.

I did check the vent tube from the gas tank and it was clear.
I did check the CPS but only when the Bike was cooled down. Today after work I think I am going to let it heat up and when it dies check the resistance again. I was wondering if the previous owner replaced it recently cause it looked fairly new compared to some of the other parts.

One thing i did notice is that right after it died, maybe less then a minute or two, I was able to start it right back up. Ran a little rougher but it was running.
 

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The sudden shut down is reported in many threads involving the Crank Position Sensor.
That part is relevantly inexpensive ( compared to a new igniter ) and easily replaced.
I would in the first instance obtain and fit a new CPS.

If it stumbled, lost power, then ran rough and stopped I would try loosening the fuel cap when it showed first sign of problem.
I would guess that's a fuel supply problem, venting?. But then you said it stops when riding as if the ignition has been turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi
If the engine suddenly stops when riding and I do mean as if the ignition has been turned of, it probably is the CPS.
I just went out to test the CPS after it warmed up for a bit. Last time I rode for about 15 minutes before it started to die out... This time I barely got around the block before it was stumbling and almost cutting out in first gear... I was able to get it around to my garage... It ran for a total of 7 minutes before it cut out...

At that time I popped the connection and tested the CPS resistance. I got a reading of 610 ohms which I belive is in spec for a hot bike...

I know a few people mentioned it, but when I was riding I first started to loose Responce isn’t the throttle then it would soon die out, it wasn’t just a sudden stop like I hit the kill switch...
 

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It ran for a total of 7 minutes before it cut out...

At that time I popped the connection and tested the CPS resistance. I got a reading of 610 ohms which I belive is in spec for a hot bike...

I know a few people mentioned it, but when I was riding I first started to loose Responce isn’t the throttle then it would soon die out, it wasn’t just a sudden stop like I hit the kill switch...
Have you pulled a plug wire to check for spark when the engine dies? Have you checked fuel flow?
Did you try to restart immediately after testing? When mine failed I tested and restarted several times, sometime the (resistance) and spark would come back in a few seconds sometime a minute or more. I know of no way to test the igniter but you could try putting a ziplock bag of ice on it to see if it comes back to life sooner.
 

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The ignition coil has been reported to die this way as well. It's easy and not too expensive to replace.

At this age (mine is also a 2005), you can expect some components to start going bad. I have replaced my regulator-rectifier (years ago), ignition coil, crank position sensor, and ignitor. I did those last three, in that order (expense and ease of replacement sets the sequence of work for me) when I was having similar ignition troubles starting two years ago.

In the end, it turned out to be the ignitor that had apparently become intermittent and was slowly getting worse. I replaced it with a Procom, which is half the price of the OEM part, and it instantly fixed the problem I had been struggling with for a year. The bike started immediately and has been running fine since then.

If you're able to borrow an ignitor, you can determine very quickly if that's the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The ignition coil has been reported to die this way as well. It's easy and not too expensive to replace.

If you're able to borrow an ignitor, you can determine very quickly if that's the problem.
I tested the ignition coil as well as some other components and they were all in spec. Unfortunately that’s when the manual says, if everything else is fine its the igniter..

My buddy tole me to borrow an igniter from someone, I just don’t know anyone with a similar Bonneville.

I think I might bite the bullet and replace the igniter this week. I read that a lot of people recommended the Procom from New Bonneville (https://newbonneville.com/shop/procom-high-rev-limit-igniter/) , so I might go that route, hopefully that will fix it.

Thank you again for your the help and suggestions!
It’s much appreciated
 

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When you get the Procom, make sure to set the dip switches properly for the particular ignitor it's replacing. There will be instructions with it. It's based on the number on your OEM ignitor.

I also purchased mine from NewBonneville.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ended up replacing the Igniter. Seemed to be running well when I had it in the garage. Went over 15 minutes. Took it out for a spin and it ran fine. After about 9 minutes I took a right turn, gave it some throttle and it died... I was able to get it started about 10 minutes later...

I double checked the coils & Plugs again and they all seemed good..
not really sure where to go from here...
 

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I ended up replacing the Igniter. Seemed to be running well when I had it in the garage. Went over 15 minutes. Took it out for a spin and it ran fine. After about 9 minutes I took a right turn, gave it some throttle and it died... I was able to get it started about 10 minutes later...

I double checked the coils & Plugs again and they all seemed good..
not really sure where to go from here...
It's the coil. Went through same nonsense with mine about CPS gap, etc. for weeks. Just replace it with a Procom for the correct year/model as it takes 10 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It's the coil. Went through same nonsense with mine about CPS gap, etc. for weeks. Just replace it with a Procom for the correct year/model as it takes 10 minutes.
I Ended up replacing the Igniter with a Procom, and it seemed to run a little better. I think I am going to try replacing the coil next and spark plug leads next. The resistance on the coil was a little low when I tested it, so I am thinking that might be it
 
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