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(posted and snipped from a previous thread)
(snip)
To run my turn signals as marker lights, all I had to do was run 12 volts through the NC contact and drive the coil from the normal turn signal line. When the turn signal blinks "on", the relay closes the NO contact and opens the NC contact.

(snip)

Make sense? If not, just ask and I'll be happy to confuse you further! :D

Jim
Help Jim Help
Okay, this is something i tried but my logic circuits weren't firing sufficiently.
I'm going to use a DPDT or DPST?
Do you drive all four turnsignals as running lights through the same relay?
Do you need 2 sets of relays, one for left and one for right?

AND I have some yellow running lights on the front of my bike. Can I wire them in, too?

thanks for helping the slow kid in class
If no response from Jim, can someone else help leo?
 

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(posted and snipped from a previous thread)

Help Jim Help


If no response from Jim, can someone else help leo?
I think it could be done by wiring one SPDT relay per side (e.g. two relays). The front and rear signal lights would be wired from a +12 V fused source from the ignition switch through the normally closed contacts of each relay. The wire that used to pulse the signal light on would now be connected to each relay coil so that when the coil is energized the lights would go off. This way, when the ignition switch is on, the lights would be on until pulsed off.

The wire that now energizes the relay coil would still have to be connected to the signal warning light on the instrument panel. This wire is green for the left signal and grey for the right signal.

As far as the other lights go, that would depend on how much power they take and how much current carrying capacity you have in your wiring and relays (and whether you really want to switch them too).

Rick
 

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If you invert your turn signal operation you MUST use LED lamps or the turn signals will melt!!!!

LED lamps will cause your blinker to go into "failed lamp" fast blink mode. You can either add a resistor to ground to simulate a tungsten lamp or open the blinker and cut the copper trace on the PCB from pin 7 of the Atmel IC.

If you do LEDs on all four lamps, you will need a resistor from the blinker to ground or the blinker will not blink.

I only inverted the rear signals, so I cut the copper trace in the blinker and didn't need to add a resistor.

You need 2 relays -- one for each side -- regardless of whether you invert only the rear signals or the front and rear.

You can use either SPDT or DPDT relays. DPDTs are better because you can parallel the connections and increase the overall reliability of the relay.

You will need a switched +12V source and a good ground. I made up jumpers to separate the blinker from the blinker connector and used the power and ground from the blinker to run the relays.

The +12V runs from the blinker terminal to the relay COM terminal. The turn signals connect to the NC (normally closed) terminal and the NO (Normally Open) terminal is not used.

The ground from the blinker terminal connects to one side of the relay COIL and the other relay COIL terminal connects to the blinker output terminal.


Gimmie a few days and I'll draw up a diagram.

Jim
 

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Attached is the diagram for inverting the turn signals and replacing the stock tungsten lamps with LEDs.

Note the addition of a load resistor on the blinker output line 49a.

This is required if the blinker is not modified and/or the blinker will not start with LEDs installed.

Do not attempt this mod without LEDs! Your turn signals will melt.

This diagram is also available in my PhotoBucket sub album "Triumph Wrench Head Stuff."

http://s279.photobucket.com/albums/kk128/jimmyj900/Triumph%20Wrench%20Head%20Stuff/

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
:elated: Fantastic! :ClapHappy:

As long as you're sharing, do you have a favorite place for purchasing LEDs? I have had some experience with SuperBrighLEDs but I'm always open to looking at other vendors, too.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/
 

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I used Sunbrite SSP-1156B153S12 LED replacements for the 1156 tungsten lamps. The ones they're now stocking have a large central LED, but they're equivalent to the older ones I'm using.

You can get them from either Mouser Electronics or Digikey for around $4.25 each.

Check which one has the closer distribution/branch for savings on shipping 'cause they'll charge you about $10 if it's any distance and that jacks the price up to about $20 for a pair.

If you're ordering four that will save some bux on shipping.

Jim
 

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a late reply... but worth mentioning!

...finally got around to doing this, and it worked out great! :welldone

I put in 1156 Hyper-48 Amber LED bulbs which fit the front turn signal housing just right. I ended up "inverting" only the front turn signals, thus making them perfect Bonneville running lights.

The Rat-Shack 1-amp relays went into the headlamp bucket where I tapped the 12v for the contacts off of the parking lamp circuit. The wiring going to the light fixtures was all there, as well. So easy, a cave---

well, you get the picture!

Thanks for this thread and especially to Jim for the simple diagram. I like knowing that oncoming drivers can now see me for who I am... I rider of the road - and not just on it.
 

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Can someone tell me exactly what relays I should use for this job? I want to convert both the front and rear turn signals on my Legend to running lights. I bought some Posi Taps to tap into the wiring in the headlight lamp housing, and I understand the wiring diagram, but I can't find what rating the relay should have.

Also, what is the size of the resistor necessary? How many ohms?

Also, will the 1156 Hyper-48 Amber LED bulbs that fit the bonnie fit my Legend housing?

Last one: I'm thinking about adding a set of these:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/motorcycle-led-light/led-light.htm
Would that change the relay rating?
Thanks for any help - I can spin wrenches, but electrical leaves me baffled.
 

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I'm a bit confused with JimmyJ's diagram. It looks like he has both the right side (front & rear) configured as the LED running lights? I'm guessing you just want the front? Only just back from my trip so I can't do much today, but can help next day or so. I can tell you straight off there's no issue with relay contact rating for your proposed extra strips - any 'auto' relay will be more than enough for LEDs.

Have you thought about just adding some clear LEDs or strips separately for running lights? It would be simpler & there's more on the market now than a couple of years ago?
 

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I always ride as if anyone getting ready to pull out in front of me actually will pull out in front of me, but my buddies had commented that I didn't have much in the way of visibility when we ride after dark. I thought that having both front and rear turn signals wired as running lights would add some visibility, as well as give better distance information to those around me. I know that I pulled out in front of an older Saturn car one night, because on this model, the front headlights are not mounted at the front corners of the body, but rather on either side of the grill. Therefore, the close distance between them led me to believe that the car was still some distance away, when in fact it was much closer. Fortunately, he wasn't going fast, and must be used to people pulling out in front of him, as he slowed down.
I have seen the led light strips, etc., but I would really like to just improve my existing lights rather than add those. I guess I will call the folks at Custom Dynamics and see what they offer.
 

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If you want to go for both front & rear blinkers for running lights, if you change all the blinkers to LEDs you can then use a blinker relay designed for them & no resistor(s) are required (a 2 terminal type, no ground, also works fine). Just copy Jimmy's circuit for the right side onto the left also with another relay. Be sure to get a good recommendation (or top brand) for the LED blinkers/bulbs as even the best are only just up to the daylight brightness of normal bulbs at present imo. (I recently fitted some from louis.de in Germany which are ok.) LED technology is such that a purpose designed lamp unit will generally work better than a simple bulb replacement.

As regards visibilty in that most dangerous situation for us - a vehicle waiting to turn across our path - I've adopted/modified my procedure based on something I read here. Basically waiting until, if possible, I can see the other driver looking & then making a side movement to a safer position & leaning my head to the side a little. I'm thinking a little sideways movement relative to an otherwise slim unmoving profile helps to ensure we're noticed & maybe our approach speed judged better.
 

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As regards visibilty in that most dangerous situation for us - a vehicle waiting to turn across our path - I've adopted/modified my procedure based on something I read here. Basically waiting until, if possible, I can see the other driver looking & then making a side movement to a safer position & leaning my head to the side a little. I'm thinking a little sideways movement relative to an otherwise slim unmoving profile helps to ensure we're noticed & maybe our approach speed judged better.
That sounds like a great idea - I know I always look when I see someone on a bike doing small side to side swerves in traffic.
 

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As regards visibilty in that most dangerous situation for us - a vehicle waiting to turn across our path - I've adopted/modified my procedure based on something I read here. Basically waiting until, if possible, I can see the other driver looking & then making a side movement to a safer position & leaning my head to the side a little. I'm thinking a little sideways movement relative to an otherwise slim unmoving profile helps to ensure we're noticed & maybe our approach speed judged better.
Avariation on the above. I was once told to aim the bike at the car. It should get the driver's attention and make them think twice before chancing a last-second turn.
 
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