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Has any converted their plastic tank to a steel one? If so, how big of task is this project?
 

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Should have proof read before posting, has anyone tried changing plastic tank to steel tank?
 

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What is the asset of doing so? Less sensitive to ethanol?
The plastic tank contains a fuel pump w/ a separated fuel filter and all the components are separated and replaceable separately (like the 955). In the steel one the fuel pump is one plastic block including a non changeable filter.
The fuel sender on the plastic one is the 955 one while on the steel one it's more automotive (wiper on a series of resistors). I couldn't tell which one is the more reliable. I had troubles w/ both. Except the wiper one wear out after a long time.
 

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I don't know about the fuel filter being replaceable.

I haven't done the swap but it looks like you'd need the mounting parts for the front of the tank.
My plastic one has swelled and the decals are starting to bubble up.
 

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I don't know about the fuel filter being replaceable.

I haven't done the swap but it looks like you'd need the mounting parts for the front of the tank.
My plastic one has swelled and the decals are starting to bubble up.
Yeah that's why I was refering to the ethanol problem. I always kept away from ethanol added fuel.
Regarding the replaceable filter and searching the web and worldoftriumph I wonder whether it was only speed triples that received that one.
 

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It's not too easy to avoid ethanol here in the US.
They're adding up to 15% here, it's called E85.
I remember KitNYC saying if you want to replace the filter on the 1050 you buy a new pump.

Ethanol is slowly bubbling the decals on all of my nylon tanked Triumphs. The Tiger looks like it has some sort of horrible disease.
 

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Funny. Here E85 is 85% ethanol. And E10 is 10% ethanol. The default is 5%.
That is the way it is here. E85 is 85% ethanol. Standard in my part of the country is 10%, 15% in others. Steve is just thinking backwards.

However, E85 is great for turbocharged performance engines that have been tuned for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What is the asset of doing so? Less sensitive to ethanol?
The plastic tank contains a fuel pump w/ a separated fuel filter and all the components are separated and replaceable separately (like the 955). In the steel one the fuel pump is one plastic block including a non changeable filter.
The fuel sender on the plastic one is the 955 one while on the steel one it's more automotive (wiper on a series of resistors). I couldn't tell which one is the more reliable. I had troubles w/ both. Except the wiper one wear out after a long time.
That is correct, my tank has swelled to the point the handle bars are touching the tank and very difficult taking the tank of and on.
 

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10% standard explains why so much people in the USA had swelling problems w/ plastic tanks.
I had this problem with my Ducati Monster and my Sprint. The Ducati riders dry the tank and coat them with Caswells. This has proven successful. I have the
Caswells,
But I am probably just going to put the OEM tank back and just run non ethanol fuel and/or drain the tank when the bike is not being used.
 

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Has any converted their plastic tank to a steel one? If so, how big of task is this project?
Dragging this from deep in my memory, but as I recall the side panels are a slightly different shape to accommodate the revised shape at the rear of the steel tank that gave slightly more capacity. Checking part numbers I see two different numbers T2301946-xx appears to be for models with the plastic tank and T2301607-xx for models with the steel tank. xx is the color code. I believe the seat was also slightly different for the same reason. There are 3 part numbers but I couldn't tell you which is which.

Check that information - it's a long time since we all discussed this and I sometimes have trouble remembering what happened yesterday let alone 10 years ago!
 

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That is correct, my tank has swelled to the point the handle bars are touching the tank and very difficult taking the tank of and on.
If you need a temporary fix then remove the rear tank bracket from the frame and elongate the two bolt holes. That will allow you to move the tank bracket back slightly which, in turn, will allow you to mount the tank slightly further back. It may be enough to stop the bars hitting the tank or at least reduce the problem.

File the holes in stages, trying for fit each time. If you try to move the tank back too much, the side panels won't attach correctly and the seat won't go back in place but it's no big deal to loosen the bolts and move the bracket even if you filed the holes too long.
 

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remove the rear tank bracket from the frame and elongate the two bolt holes
that's exactly what I did with mine. 1/8" made a huge difference when trying to get the tank to seat in the rear bracket so you can get that bolt in.
 

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I don't know about the fuel filter being replaceable.

I haven't done the swap but it looks like you'd need the mounting parts for the front of the tank.
My plastic one has swelled and the decals are starting to bubble up.
Just don't peel the decal off. I noticed that a few times on hot days sitting in the sun. I stuck a pin in it and it lay down fine. One could use the decals as a stencil to paint, if they aren't pealed off.
The tank filter for the 1050 isn't replaceable. However there is information on this site to show how to modify the fuel pump by cutting the stock filter off to add a replaceable one, also how to swap fuel line fittings to metal fittings.
 

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[QUOTE="done, post: 2004034930, member: 33422
My tank seems fine but I use a bit of hardwood as a lever to pry it fwd to put the bolt back in. I lubricate the rubber.. I think this tank swap idea was talked about before but there haven't been any swaps to metal that I can remember either.
[/QUOTE]
 
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