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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello again everyone, just received my OBD2 cable and connected(via TuneEcu)to my bike ('04 Daytona 955i) discovered the "dealer" installed the 10181 map but my bike is a California model WITH SAI, question, would that map with a functional SAI system make my bike run rough (erratic idle, stalling at idle/low speed, running rich)? If so do I disconnect the SAI and place blocking plates or just download a new map? I prefer to just disconnect and block(seeing that the 10181 map is for an aftermarket exhaust WITHOUT SAI). The bike is stock with only a Dominator slip-on (with DB killer) and a K&N air filter. Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated, Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply, the bike did have the fuel vapor emissions control hardware (the valve and canister) I removed them when I replaced the IACV hoses. Wouldn't it be easier for me just to disconnect and block the SAI, being that the 10181 map is already installed? FYI, when I turn the key the SAI valve activates (hear an audible click by the front of the gas tank)bike never did that before I took it to the dealer, could that be the cause of the poor low speed running/stalling problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
P.S. getting that little info(diagnostics and sensor readings) from the ECU was nerve wracking, I'm not the most computer literate guy out there, don't really want to scew the bike up. Hope you guys understand, thanks.
 

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I dont think sai would cause idle issues because it should only be active at higher speeds when the oxygen sensor is not used. I think it’s programable but shouldn’t have changed if you’re using a triumph map.
Idle issues are much more likely to be air leak/icav related particularly if you’ve just been working in that area. Throttle balance is also a possible factor,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The throttle bodies were balanced at the dealer when the bike went in for a low idle problem, here's a list of what was done;
Fuel pump (new)
Fuel regulator (new)
ICAV with hoses (new)
Ign coil #3 and O2 sensor (used)
Fuel tank, lines and injectors cleaned and the ECU was updated b/c the program was obsolete.
There's the list, she ran OK for about 3 weeks after it was taken back for warranty for the first work done, when I got it back she ran better despite the idle at 1100+/- rpm then 2 weeks ago I went for a ride, she started fine(idle a bit erratic @1800rpm during warmup), ran well but as I got home she stalled at lights and she stalled at low speed taking a turn(got lucky). Had to keep it accelerated to get home! Thanks.
 

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Idle issues always seem to get complicated, with all the work that’s been done the number of things it could be are reduced.
I would still guess air leak, maybe the o rings on the throttle transition pieces if you’re sure the icav hoses are secure. Some times if you squirt something combustible (like carb cleaner) at the throttle bodies and manifold, the engine speed will change and that’s a sign that there is a leak.
Have valve clearances been checked recently(ish).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Idle issues always seem to get complicated, with all the work that’s been done the number of things it could be are reduced.
I would still guess air leak, maybe the o rings on the throttle transition pieces if you’re sure the icav hoses are secure. Some times if you squirt something combustible (like carb cleaner) at the throttle bodies and manifold, the engine speed will change and that’s a sign that there is a leak.
Have valve clearances been checked recently(ish).
What O-rings are those? the ones with the clamps from throttle bodies to intake manifold? I have the tank and airbox off so I'll take a look, I also checked the SAI reeds and they were ok, while I was there I turned on the ignition and the SAI valve opened(?) would it do that despite the map NOT having SAI?
PS- the valves haven't been checked or serviced (10,665mi on ODO). Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Idle issues always seem to get complicated, with all the work that’s been done the number of things it could be are reduced.
I would still guess air leak, maybe the o rings on the throttle transition pieces if you’re sure the icav hoses are secure. Some times if you squirt something combustible (like carb cleaner) at the throttle bodies and manifold, the engine speed will change and that’s a sign that there is a leak.
Have valve clearances been checked recently(ish).
Update; checked the throttle body O-rings, they looked good from what I saw.
 

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What O-rings are those? the ones with the clamps from throttle bodies to intake manifold? ......
No, there is an oring that sits on the head under the short stub that take the throttle body to the cylinder head.
I wouldnot be surprised if the sai cycles when you switch on even if the map thinks it’s not present. If the wiring is connected there could easily be a voltage applied on start up.
if you want to try it without sai, disconnect the wire that goes to the black cylinder sitting on the front of the air box. From memory, the plug is at the rear right of the air box.
Also, is it not worth just trying the 10179 map? I don’t think sai is your issue but I could be wrong - there has to be a first time😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the help, but here comes the dumb question of the day...
How do I download the 10179 map? Do I connect the OBD2 cable to my phone and download from the TuneEcu site or does it have to be connected to the bike also? Please remember I'm not the most computer savvy guy here 😬
Thanks
 

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Ok, you will need some other help here because I’m a windows person and never used tuneecu on a phone.
it’s a three step process (the good news is that the first two steps can’t break any thing, the third step however......)
One - connect to the bike and select the menu option to read the map. This should give you the option to save the map somewhere. You can do this a few times to get the hang of it.
Two - go to the tune ecu map list site and download the 10179 map to your device.
Three- load the 10179 map into tuneecu (should be file/open or equivalent). Connect to the bike and select the menu option to download the map and that’s it.

Make sure the bike is on a trickle charger and pull the light fuses to stop voltage fluctuations.
If you can’t see the relevant options on the phone then seek other advice as my windows version is too differen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, you will need some other help here because I’m a windows person and never used tuneecu on a phone.
it’s a three step process (the good news is that the first two steps can’t break any thing, the third step however......)
One - connect to the bike and select the menu option to read the map. This should give you the option to save the map somewhere. You can do this a few times to get the hang of it.
Two - go to the tune ecu map list site and download the 10179 map to your device.
Three- load the 10179 map into tuneecu (should be file/open or equivalent). Connect to the bike and select the menu option to download the map and that’s it.

Make sure the bike is on a trickle charger and pull the light fuses to stop voltage fluctuations.
If you can’t see the relevant options on the phone then seek other advice as my windows version is too differen.
Step 3, thanks for the vote of confidence, makes feel good😧
I'll try and see if I don't turn my bike as an expensive yard ornament 😬
One last question, wouldn't it be a bit less labor/emotional(for me) intensive to just remove the SAI and block the valves and the air box? Thoughts? Thanks.
 

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That is a bit like the tail wagging the dog, yes you can do that. If it’s just for the idle issue, I’d first try disconnecting the plug to ensure it can’t open. Unless theres a leak in the Reed valves, that will prove it.
Ithink sai is just to help emissions so it shouldn’t affect running to much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
That is a bit like the tail wagging the dog, yes you can do that. If it’s just for the idle issue, I’d first try disconnecting the plug to ensure it can’t open. Unless theres a leak in the Reed valves, that will prove it.
Ithink sai is just to help emissions so it shouldn’t affect running to much.
May be true but the more obvious has been checked/replaced the way I'm seeing this is that the SAI valve stays open and it's constantly letting air into the exhaust where the O2 sensor senses the extra clean air and the ECU compensates buy upping the fuel(that raw gas smell I noticed after that ride 2 weeks ago) I've been basing my theory on this...
745568
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
BTW, I blew air into each reed valve hose with very little effort, then I removed each one to have a look at their condition and they seemed a bit flimsy, are they SUPPOSED to be that way? FYI.
 

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They always seem quite flimsy but they are opened by the depression in the exhaust that suck fresh air in so they are not going to be very strong.
Also if the control valve is disconnected, then even if the reeds are weaker than theŷ should be, it wont be able to suck any air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
They always seem quite flimsy but they are opened by the depression in the exhaust that suck fresh air in so they are not going to be very strong.
Also if the control valve is disconnected, then even if the reeds are weaker than theŷ should be, it wont be able to suck any air.
Good to know, I'll try your suggestion, go for a test ride and get back to you.
Thanks!
 

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just to add that my assumption about disconnecting the valve only works if it isn’t jammed in the open position. Which I don’t even know is possible.
 
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