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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,

Firstly, im new here so please excuse me if i am in the incorrect place.

I have in my garage a 51 T-Bird with her innards (clutch) pulled out.

I want to run a dry clutch (only to stop this blinking clutch slip at hi torque) but after looking at these clutch roller bearings i am scared to. They look like they need love (and lube!)

Two questions:

1) Has anyone heard of a sealed bearing to replace these rollers (British bike spares in NZ rumor)

2) Has anyone run ATF type F transmission fluid as primary oil with success (as ATF DX-3 was rubbish)

or can anyone tell me how to keep em wet whilst running dry?

Thanks guys....
 

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..roller bearings!

...my brother uses a belt brive & NO oil as the roller bearings only work when you have the clutch lever pulled in ie;clutch disengaged.The clutch spins as a unit 99% of the time..Just grease them every few thousand miles(really)... Merry Xmas all...Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Moto6T,

What you have explained makes sense to me. Only i was advised not to grease these rollers as the centrifugal force will cause the grease to run out into the clutch plates?

I guess if your running dry it makes sense to also keep the bike in neutral at the lights rather than running the clutch.

Thanks for you prompt reply.
 

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Guys,

Firstly, im new here so please excuse me if i am in the incorrect place.

I have in my garage a 51 T-Bird with her innards (clutch) pulled out.

I want to run a dry clutch (only to stop this blinking clutch slip at hi torque) but after looking at these clutch roller bearings i am scared to. They look like they need love (and lube!)

2) Has anyone run ATF type F transmission fluid as primary oil with success (as ATF DX-3 was rubbish)

or can anyone tell me how to keep em wet whilst running dry?

Thanks guys....
Welcome to the forum.

In my '59, I have been running type F ATF for years with good results. I use the standard single row primary chain setup.

If you clean the friction plates thoroughly and assemble dry, a properly adjusted clutch will not slip. It can be a challenge to balance a tendency to slip against a tendency for clutch drag, but like most challenges it can be overcome.

I find that it is important to make sure the clutch is running true (no wobble in the pressure plate when you kick it over with the clutch lever in). That gives you the maximum latitude in adjustment between slipping (too little play in the pushrod) and dragging (too much play, not enough travel).

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Neil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Neil,

Your a champ.

I cleaned my plates in petrol then simmered in detergent last night.

All new clutch springs/bolts and nuts should make this right. Like you say. Just need to set it up correctly.

Cheers. Merry Christmas eve.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app
 

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If it still slips,file the lip off the inner splines and fit one extra friction plate.Put a friction plate into the basket first.You'll use an equal number of steel and friction plates.
Only one side of that first plate gets used,just like a unit clutch.If space is tight,you can strip the lining off the unused side of the plate.

If it still slips after that,get new plates with better friction material.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys,
Cleaned, filed, new and running like a dream. Much easier to set up with new springs, bolts and nuts. That ATF F grade fluid works a treat......so far.
Thanks to all that posted help. It gives you a little more confidence with a team on your side.
 
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