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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! (71 Bonnie, OIF)

I'm being brave and chasing a leaking drip behind my primary case. I have removed the case, clutch basket, primary chain, drive sprocket, etc. and replaced the inspection plate gasket and oil seal (hopefully the source of my issue) behind the clutch basket. My question is (hopefully not too dumb), I am yet to replace the primary drive case and everything is back together, but there is no pressure on the clutch lever and cable. Is the pressure supplied by the oil which obviously is not there yet, or have I screded up and done something wrong?

Helpful advise as always, most welcome.

Richo
 

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Clutch Adjustment

Hi Richo,

No, the pressure is not supplied by the oil. The procedure in the book for adjusting the clutch is as follows:

1) First check that the clutch pressure plate is true (no wobble) do this by turning the engine over with the kick start with the gearbox in neutral, if required adjust the plate using the slotted nuts on the pressure plate. (They pins should be flush with the heads of the nuts.

2) Next, adjust the the clutch operating rod, there should be approx. 1/16" (1.5mm) clearance between the rod and the clutch pressure plate. Unscrew the lock nut and screw in the adjuster until the pressure plate begins to lift and then unscrew one full turn, once you have done this tighten the locknut.

3) Adjust the free play at the lever using the adjuster on the lever, there should be approx. 1/8" (3mm) of play in the cable.

All that should take you about 10mins

Let me know how you get on

Good Luck

Webby
 

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are you sure you don't have any left over parts like the clutch push rod ?


cheers , Woody
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ahhh, adjustment! I had wrongly assumed that if I put everything back as it was, it would just work. With the benefit of hindsight and your post, I now realise that I am stupid.

Hi Richo,

No, the pressure is not supplied by the oil. The procedure in the book for adjusting the clutch is as follows:

1) First check that the clutch pressure plate is true (no wobble) do this by turning the engine over with the kick start with the gearbox in neutral, if required adjust the plate using the slotted nuts on the pressure plate. (They pins should be flush with the heads of the nuts.

2) Next, adjust the the clutch operating rod, there should be approx. 1/16" (1.5mm) clearance between the rod and the clutch pressure plate. Unscrew the lock nut and screw in the adjuster until the pressure plate begins to lift and then unscrew one full turn, once you have done this tighten the locknut.

3) Adjust the free play at the lever using the adjuster on the lever, there should be approx. 1/8" (3mm) of play in the cable.

All that should take you about 10mins

Let me know how you get on

Good Luck

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, but I so have a large oil seal I cannot find a home for. I used the one on the clutch inspection plate behind the basket, but was also given one about half as big again that I can find no natural home for.



are you sure you don't have any left over parts like the clutch push rod ?


cheers , Woody
 

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Sounds like it's the seal for the output (chain) drive from the gearbox. If it's not leaking leave it alone and throw the spare seal in your spares box till you need it.

Webby
 

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Ahhh, adjustment! I had wrongly assumed that if I put everything back as it was, it would just work. With the benefit of hindsight and your post, I now realise that I am stupid.
No you're not stupid, just remember there are no stupid questions just stupid people :)

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well it seems as though I have an extremely fine line between no clutch at all and then nothing but disengaged clutch - half a turn. Is that right? How much movement should there be on the pressure plate - mine moves around 5mm - is that normal? It seems as though I should have more than that to play with.

No you're not stupid, just remember there are no stupid questions just stupid people :)

Webby
 

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The book says one full turn, but I guess anything between half and a full turn should be OK, it's only to ensure that you have no pressure on the clutch when it is disengaged.

To be honest, I have no idea about the measurement for the lift but I figure 5mm sounds about right. Remember top slacken off the adjuster on the lever before you start adjusting the pushrod. I assume that the clutch was working before so the only other thing I think you could try is adjusting the spring tension.

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, I finally got a bit of time to check the situation and adjust the clutch by the book (thanks Webby!).

The tip here was to TOTALLY slacken off the cable, not just the little bit I was doing.

One turn off touching the clutch actuating rod left we with a significant clutch slippage. So I screwed it in a little more to "feel" the pressure on the plate, and backed off one turn off that - a bit better. I've now screwed it in another quarter turn which feels better still. So I think it'll be wait for a nice day, go for a ride with a 9/16 socket and a screwdriver and keep stopping and adjusting until I get it just right. Unless of course there's a better way?

I'd rather not take off the primary cover (as I was totally anal about cleaning the joint surfaces, lovingly prepping the gasket, greasing it and refitting - and I now have a leak-free Bonneville, which was the reason I started this mission in the first place!), but if I have to, then I have to.

One more thing, I think I have fitted my primary chain too tight as (through the oil filling/inspection hole) I only have around 5mm play if I push the chain, but the book recommends 9mm. As a consquence, I have a noisy primary chain. Will this settle down quickly, or should I adjust it? Trying to avoid left hand pipes off and dicking around with a home made ratchet screwdriver to slacken off the chain - who is the idiot who designed that?

Looking for some solid hints, with thanks.

Richo

Hi Richo,

No, the pressure is not supplied by the oil. The procedure in the book for adjusting the clutch is as follows:

1) First check that the clutch pressure plate is true (no wobble) do this by turning the engine over with the kick start with the gearbox in neutral, if required adjust the plate using the slotted nuts on the pressure plate. (They pins should be flush with the heads of the nuts.

2) Next, adjust the the clutch operating rod, there should be approx. 1/16" (1.5mm) clearance between the rod and the clutch pressure plate. Unscrew the lock nut and screw in the adjuster until the pressure plate begins to lift and then unscrew one full turn, once you have done this tighten the locknut.

3) Adjust the free play at the lever using the adjuster on the lever, there should be approx. 1/8" (3mm) of play in the cable.

All that should take you about 10mins

Let me know how you get on

Good Luck

Webby
 

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Hi Riccho,

Good to hear you sorted your clutch, I figure if you play around with the adjustment you should be able to get it even better. As for your primary chain, it would be better to slacken if off a little (check for play with your finger though the oil filler hole) if it is too tight you could damage the clutch or main bearings.

Webby
 
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