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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm finding the amount of clutch travel on my 2021 Tiger 900 GT to be a little short. I can see the appeal of having such a short travel for quick shifting, but I'd prefer to have more travel and slower engagement. I'm referring to how the clutch so quickly disengages after such a short amount of lever travel. I'd prefer to have engagement nearly to the hand grip so the clutch begins to engage shortly after I let out the lever and doesn't fully engage until nearly full extension. I've adjusted free play and tried all four dial settings and it still doesn't feel the way I'd like it to. Is this something that can be achieved with an aftermarket lever? Maybe there's one with a larger pivot radius and thus longer travel. Or maybe a longer lever can be installed on the clutch side that requires more cable travel to engage/disengage the clutch.
 

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Hah, we share same complaints. I’m getting used to it, but I’ve read somewhere it has something to do with the quick shifter. I’m inclined to find some short levers and see if that helps, probably get some puig’s after I’m done messing with my other ordered parts. :). I don’t think it will change it and I suspect I will just learn the engagement. My street twin is much more linear compared to the near binary nature of this engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hah, we share same complaints. I’m getting used to it, but I’ve read somewhere it has something to do with the quick shifter. I’m inclined to find some short levers and see if that helps, probably get some puig’s after I’m done messing with my other ordered parts. :). I don’t think it will change it and I suspect I will just learn the engagement. My street twin is much more linear compared to the near binary nature of this engagement.
I wonder if stiffer clutch springs would help.
 

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Tiger 900 GT Pro
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The way to adjust for more lever travel is to put on a slightly longer clutch release arm where the cable locates above the clutch itself. There are aftermarket places who sell these and perhaps one is available for the Tiger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The way to adjust for more lever travel is to put on a slightly longer clutch release arm where the cable locates above the clutch itself. There are aftermarket places who sell these and perhaps one is available for the Tiger.
I was wondering the same thing. I'm thinking this would make the clutch pull lighter though, so stiffer clutch springs would probably be needed too.
 

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Tiger 900 GT Pro
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Anything that extends the movement of the lever relative to the release arm will make the pull lighter. However, that won't have any bearing on the stiffness of the clutch itself. The plates will be held together by the same springs and won't loosen up by changing the relative leverage at your hand.

I went to check the release arm on my GT Pro. Unfortunately the arm is incorporated with the shaft as a single piece so a swap is unlikely. Some clutches have a separate arm.
Here's the difference.

757376
VS
757377
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anything that extends the movement of the lever relative to the release arm will make the pull lighter. However, that won't have any bearing on the stiffness of the clutch itself. The plates will be held together by the same springs and won't loosen up by changing the relative leverage at your hand.

I went to check the release arm on my GT Pro. Unfortunately the arm is incorporated with the shaft as a single piece so a swap is unlikely. Some clutches have a separate arm.
Here's the difference.

View attachment 757376 VS View attachment 757377
Right. I didn't mean it would be required. I just meant the pull is already too light in my opinion, so I would personally want to tighten things up with some stiffer springs.

I'm sure an extension piece wouldn't be too hard to fashion up.
 

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T100R Daytona 1971 & Tiger 850 Sport
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I have my 850 adjusted as I like just by leaving more cable play via the top adjuster. On the recent first service the mechanic adjusted out the play, probably with a cold engine. As the bike warms up play is reduced so I put it back to suit me by adjusting when hot. No quickshift on mine though! The action is a bit grabby but I think its part of the self servo design and I doubt whether different lever ratios would change that. At ultra low speeds slipping the clutch is difficult if not impossible.

While moaning about the service I may as well also add that the oil was grossly overfilled and I can't see any easy way of correcting that without removing the drain plug. I might just wind out the oil filter which is easier to get at. When they charge about £15 per litre it adds insult to injury! I'll be doing future services myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have my 850 adjusted as I like just by leaving more cable play via the top adjuster. On the recent first service the mechanic adjusted out the play, probably with a cold engine. As the bike warms up play is reduced so I put it back to suit me by adjusting when hot. No quickshift on mine though! The action is a bit grabby but I think its part of the self servo design and I doubt whether different lever ratios would change that. At ultra low speeds slipping the clutch is difficult if not impossible.

While moaning about the service I may as well also add that the oil was grossly overfilled and I can't see any easy way of correcting that without removing the drain plug. I might just wind out the oil filter which is easier to get at. When they charge about £15 per litre it adds insult to injury! I'll be doing future services myself.
I'm just being nitpicky because I feel like a bike that cost this much by a company that has been around forever should basically be perfect.

Precisely why I do all my own work. I don't trust anyone else to do it properly. If they can't even fill the oil to the proper level, that says a lot. Doesn't surprise me at all though. They probably over torqued the drain bolt too and didn't do half the things on the service list properly. I had some tires mounted/balanced on one of my cars at the Acura dealer and the "Master" technician didn't even know how to balance a tire properly.
 

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I did my own 600 mile oil change and I only got 2.5 quarts out(over a quart shy full capacity, can’t imagine filter media holds more than 0.1 quarts) . It was enough for the bike to be ok, but it left me wondering if I could possibly have consumed oil in break in or if it was just wrong on my new bike, I trusted…but wished I had verified. :). So yeah, a fan of own service too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did my own 600 mile oil change and I only got 2.5 quarts out(over a quart shy full capacity, can’t imagine filter media holds more than 0.1 quarts) . It was enough for the bike to be ok, but it left me wondering if I could possibly have consumed oil in break in or if it was just wrong on my new bike, I trusted…but wished I had verified. :). So yeah, a fan of own service too..
I doubt you burned a quart of oil. I haven't done my first service yet, but according to the parts fiche, it looks like the drain plug is on the right side of the oil pan. Did you drain the oil with the bike on the side stand, or did you stand it up?
 

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Center stand, and rocked it after…

When filling it full 3.5 new went on in and Sue glass reads correctly on center stand.

My theory Is that it WAS NOT filled correctly initially?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Center stand, and rocked it after…

When filling it full 3.5 new went on in and Sue glass reads correctly on center stand.

My theory Is that it WAS NOT filled correctly initially?
Oh okay. That's odd. I guess there could have been some consumption during break in since the rings weren't yet seated fully. And it wouldn't surprise me if the oil level wasn't proper to begin with. Sounds like you're good now.
 

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For non-USA readers the US quart is much less than the UK quart. The owners handbook says that after an oil and filter change 3.15 litres ( 3.3 US quarts) is required which is 0.5 litres less than a dry fill. The implication being that it is impossible to fully drain the oil, perhaps because of the gearbox layout or maybe because the head has built in oil reservoirs. I would never fill with a specific quantity rather than gradually topping off to get to the correct level on the sight glass but a mechanic in a hurry might just throw in the amount shown in the handbook.
 

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Yes to all of the things. Oil is to be filled and ready at the sight glass. All my numbers were “directional”, but in no world can I explain adding 1 more quart than I removed to get a proper fill as anything less than consumption or under filled or both! :)
 
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