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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for the measurements of the two indicated diameters on the clutch pull rod; measured with the appropriate tools of course. I will even accept mm’s…



I have an idea about improving the “Clonk” when shifting from neutral to first. Mine is getting worse; it’s almost silent when the engine is cold but quite a jolt when hot. I’ve down all the obvious and frequently discussed roads; now I’m going to start experimenting:D. I’ve never been apposed to taking apart my bike simply for sake of learning “will this work?”. You guys will be the first to know the details of any viable solution I cobble together.

Thanks
David
 

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I don't have one apart, but I do have a new pull rod bearing sitting on the shelf. Be glad to open the pkg and see if the numbers are on it, or measure the ID. If you are not in a hurry, I had planned on replacing the bearing in a few week and could take the msmnts at that time. Let me know.

I usually associate the first gear clunk with the design of the MC xmissions. No synchronizers, and dog engagement of a stationary first gear.
 

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David
I hope you find something, my '08 does the same thing, I have to blip the throttle on occasion to break the clutch plates free when the engine is cold or else I get a horrendous clunk.
The service writer at the dealership said I would have to leave the bike overnight and then they might not be able to duplicate the problem. And I agree with what he said.
Only thing is, I would have to rent a car after dropping off the bike as they have no loaners. Yada,Yada,Yada.

I know this pdf speaks of a later model than yours, but have you seen this post talking about a shim behind the clutch basket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
ond,

The bearing ID and the OD of the inner race (+- 0.050 will suffice for the OD). Thanks!

Bruce C,

Yes, I’m effectively solving the same problem but from the other end. I believe Triumph also address this with clutch plate thickness rather than the behind the basket shim now. There are two different thickness of steel plates in the clutch; 1.6mm and 2.0mm. I believe the proper clearance can be set with different numbers of 1.6mm plates and 2.00mm plates. All of this assumes a correctly adjust clutch cable of course. I will be addressing the same clearance with the addition of a shim washer on the pull rod. Keep in mind this is a bit of an experiment so I’m not sure if it will work or if there will be unforeseen clearance issues or operational consequences. But I will undoubtedly learn something in the process…
 

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I could be wrong, but I think Bruce's problem description is a different condition than what 3banger is concerned with.

Clutch problems probably cause more rolled eyes in a service department than anything else. Unless they are familiar with you as an experienced rider, they tend to go with the usual: rider technique, adjust the cable, adjust the chain, etc. In their defense, they tend to deal with a lot of people that are not cognizant re the correct clutch adjustment procedure and shifting technique.

But any machine/component is subject to a malfunction for many reasons.

There is a rumor that a batch of out of spec clutch packs were installed on a limited number of 1050s lately. Maybe someone on good terms with a high volume Triumph dealer could ask one of their techs. My contacts (low volume) can not even remember the last time they worked on a 1050 clutch. Anyway, according to the rumor, T caught the discrepancy after the fact, and a decision was made to handle any problems on a case by case basis. Again, this is just a rumor I picked up, it is not verified.

As to the shim and the listed part number. That is just part of the information. As expected with most shims, there is a size selection. Before someone thinks to try and order a shim, msmnts must be made and the appropriate size ordered.

1170315-T0301 (0.15)
1170320-T0301 (0.20)
1170325-T0301 (0.25)
1170330-T0301 (0.30)
1170335-T0301 (0.35)

I have no knowledge as to which VINs the shims may/may not have been installed.
 

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Opened the pkg and it is a JIS 16003, so referenced the spec instead of miking it.

17mm ID
35mm OD (you did not ask for this, but threw it in anyway)

I had to mike the inner race OD and got .910" (23.11mm). Difficult to determine if the caliper horn was engaging the inner race OD flat, or if it was tangent to the radius. It ought to be within the tol you allowed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I could be wrong,
You are! “I’m a mechanical engineer..” :p

Thanks for measurements; now off to find shim washers that are the ID + a couple and slightly larger OD then the 23.11mm you spec-ed. Finally I need increments of .010" thick. I'll se what I can dig up.

Thanks Again.
 

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OnD
That's a great video!! I saw an awful lot of contractors in it who just gave up on waiting for change orders!!:D

Back to the clutch dis-engage problem. In my case, unless I hold the clutch lever for a full 5 sec. to allow the clutch basket to spool down or blip the throttle with the lever pulled in to break the clutch plates apart on initial start-up I will get a terrible clash when engaging 1st. gear. The clutch cable is adjusted to the edge of being tight, also I need ALL of the lever travel to release the clutch, I cannot move the comfort position on the lever beyond #2 and get full release of the clutch.
When the bike is warmed up I get the usual "clank" when engaging 1st. gear, which I consider normal. Along with the occasional crunch and clank when changing gears up or down. I never get false neutrals however.
 

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From the sound of it, your bike has a clutch drum travel problem which would require measurements to determine which shim would be required, assuming the pull rod hasn't shrunk. With your low mileage,
the basket fingers should be nominal.

Members have had various experiences with their dealer re this particular malfunction. Some dealers have added the shims, some claim no knowledge of the shims, and others have replaced the entire clutch assy.

Although rare, a loose basket center nut can cause the same symptoms.
 

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Greetings from Down Under folk,

My first post, but I couldn't help getting involved in this discussion, because the problem Bruce is talking about is exactly the same issue as I'm having with my '08 Sprint. I've done 3000 km and have just sent the bike back to the dealer for the second time to get them to fix this sticking clutch issue. First time all they did (as far as I know) is drain the oil and look for "bits" - found nothing (of course) and gave it back to me, with that kind of look that says "it's you, you clutz, not the bike" (and I've ridden countless bikes for countless hundreds of thousands of k's).

I, too, get the horrendous CLUNK on engaging first, when cold, and I too have had the bike stall because the clutch won't release and I have to brake to avoid being carted out into cross-traffic. Seems to get somewhat better as the clutch/gearbox warms up, but still get random sticking even after a long ride. No problem with false-neutrals, but gearbox feels very "clunky" most of the time, especially when traveling sedately - presume this is part of the same issue. Sticking issue has now reached the point of being dangerous, hence sending it back to the dealers again.

I have forwarded the info in this thread, especially that about the shims, to the workshop, and will post the outcome when I get the bike back. It's a real shame, coz this is one brilliant bike, apart from this clutch problem.

Jesse B
 

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Welcome

Hi and welcome Jesse B:)

Donski and I ask all our new people to please spend a few minutes reading our forum stickies, just to get an idea of how we run the forum.

Thanks and enjoy the forum:)

DaveM:cool:
 

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Thanks for welcome

DaveM,

Thanks for the welcome - and yes, over the weeks I've been trawling around the RAT forums I've read quite a bit about how you folk operate - all fine by me. And more power to you and your co-moderators for all the input along the way.

So much useful information - and so little time to absorb it all. Still, won't complain because already it would seem I might have sussed out the cause of my clutch issues. Hope to have an update on that situation in a day or two.

Again, thanks for the welcome:)

Jesse B
 

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Clutch Plate 'stickability'

David
I hope you find something, my '08 does the same thing, I have to blip the throttle on occasion to break the clutch plates free when the engine is cold or else I get a horrendous clunk.
The service writer at the dealership said I would have to leave the bike overnight and then they might not be able to duplicate the problem. And I agree with what he said.
Only thing is, I would have to rent a car after dropping off the bike as they have no loaners. Yada,Yada,Yada.

I know this pdf speaks of a later model than yours, but have you seen this post talking about a shim behind the clutch basket?
Fortunetly don't have this problem on the Sprint. But, if the 885 is left sitting overnight in cold temperatures then it is necessary to 'break' the clutch plates manually. This is done, before starting, by engaging 1st gear, holding in the clutch lever and then rocking the bike backwards and forwards until the clutch plates 'break'. Then, having started the engine, 1st gear is engaged smoothly. Without undertaking this action, the bike tends to lurch forward along with a savage clunk when enagaging the gear.
In the old days, when riding pre-units it was absolutely necessary to do this, but of course we used the kick start instead of the rocking the bike.
 
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