[tjwood]

Hi,
I've just finished rebuilding a 1970 T100S. I bought a new clutch cable and got the right length according to the parts manual (outer 42 inches, inner 46 inches). However, when the cable is fitted and adjusted to 1/8 inch free play, the cable adjuster at the handlebar is almost completely screwed out of the clutch lever mount. Have I done something wrong? I have the longer clutch cable abutment piece (the metal sleeve that slides over the lower end of the cable) so as far as I can see I should have taken out the maximum slack possible. Should I be using a different cable (if so, anyone know which one?).
Thanks
Tony

 

[triumpt120rv]

My supplier (Walridge Motors) has the 1970 T100S requiring a 47" outer. 69's are 42" outer.

 

[Snakeoil]

I know this is an obvious question to ask but do you have the original cable from when you got the bike? If so, I'd compare it to your new cable.

I checked my Waldridge catalog and can confirm what Dan has stated. Their Part number for that cable is 2/796.

I also checked my Brit Cycle Supply catalog and they show two parts in the Clutch Cable section under T100/S,T,R and C. Both are listed for "1969 -" and assume that means 1969 and beyond. They show a 42" cable, Triumph part number D1995, Ref no. 2/795 and another cable 47" long, Triumph part number D1994 Ref no. 2/796 (same as Waldridge).

Then a couple pages further, in their listing of all cables for each model (throttle, clutch, brake, etc) they list the T100C 500 Trophy and the clutch cable for 1969-1971 is a 47 inch, D1994, 2/796, again same as Waldridge.

My guess is the 42 inch is domestic market because they used narrower bars that US models. Cannot explain why it does not seem to adjust correctly unless you are missing another part that takes up that slack. Are you sure that the clutch release arm is in the correct position?

Lastly, I looked in my Brit Only catalog and they list only one cable for all the 500cc bikes, including the T100C and it is the 60-1994 or D1994 using the old parts format. The years it spans are '65 thru '74. So that's another vote for the 47 inch outer. None of the books give an inner core length.

I took it one step further and went to the Brit Only website since they often list specs and dimensions for the various part numbers. D1994 or 60-1994 is listed as the clutch cable for 69-73 USA models of the Triumph 500. It is listed as 47 inches long. I then searched for D1995 and 60-1995 and found nothing on their website.

Hope this helps.

regards,
Rob

 

[Morris the Cat]

Check the slack at the primary side onto the oerating rod should be unscrewed one half turn(after the p/p lifts) rather than one full turn as the manual says(?).

Also, make sure the three ball operating mechanism is in it's lowest position.

 

[tjwood]

Hi guys,
Thanks for all the replies, especially Snakeoil for doing all that research - I really appreciate it. My bike has the UK bars so the 46 inner/42 outer cable ought to be correct, but ....

The cable fitted to the bike when I bought it was a 46 inch inner with 42 inch outer. That had the same problem (cable adjuster almost all the way out) but I thought it had probably just stretched really badly. Obviously I now know that wasn't the case.

The 3-ball clutch operating mechanism looks to be in the right place as the gizmo on the end of the operating spoke that the clutch cable nipple clips into sticks out just slightly above the top of the gearbox outer cover. The clutch push rod clearance is also set correctly - a half turn out.

The bike isn't original throughout so do you think there's something 'odd' about the handlebar clutch lever assembly - not sure if there are different ones that would make the cable appear too long? Sounds odd, but I'm really clutching at straws now :-(

If I can't solve this the 'proper' way, I'm thinking of having a friend turn me a longer spacing piece on his lathe to fit between the cable abutment piece that screws into the gearbox outer cover and the end of the cable outer. Do you reckon that would be ok? It would be hidden under the rubber boot that fits over the end of the cable so wouldn't look too bad.

Failing that, I might just unsolder the barrel nipple on the cable and cut the inner an inch shorter to give me back some adjustment at the handlebar.
Thank again.
Tony

 

[DAVE M]

I would check the pivot position of the clutch lever.

I'd feel obliged to buy a few pints for my lathe mate, and that might be equal to the correct lever or whatever is the correct fix.

there can only be a couple of critical measuring points.
me, I'd buy a new nipple and shorten the inner.
It's easy and you can always buy a cheap short cable to have a practice on.

use decent solder (not LX) and splay the cable before soldering.

 

[triumpt120rv]

My bike has the UK bars so the 46 inner/42 outer cable ought to be correct, but ....

The cable fitted to the bike when I bought it was a 46 inch inner with 42 inch outer. That had the same problem (cable adjuster almost all the way out) but I thought it had probably just stretched really badly. Obviously I now know that wasn't the case.

According to my supplier (Walridge) the 47" outer 1970 T100C clutch cable is for Domestic UK bars.

 

[JME]

I may have a similar issue with by 1967 T120. Just bought a Venhill and am happy with the cable, but it too seems to be about 3/4 of an inch too long. I am interested in knowing what Dave M means when he advises to "splay the cable". Does that mean tinning it with solder before soldering the nipple in place? Thanks. I also like the thought of extending the abutment with a newly machined sleeve. Seems to me to be a clever fix that avoids any soldering issues.

 

[triumpt120rv]

I am interested in knowing what Dave M means when he advises to "splay the cable". Does that mean tinning it with solder before soldering the nipple in place? Thanks..

Spread the individual strands out so the cable is not tightly wound where you are soldering. Makes a stronger connection.

 

[Mr.Pete]

If the nipple at the gearbox end is brass,you can just heat it up and slide it along the cable.Shorten the cable and re-solder the nipple.
A spacer on the outer cable is an easy fix too.

 

[DAVE M]

yeah, what I meant was to partly unwind the end of the cable so that it represents asmall wire brush and the spaces will fill with solder as you fix it.
Then you have the mechanical advantage that the cable no longer fits through the hole in the nipple

The first couple of cables that I soldered, I treated them like electronic connections and the cable pulled right out of the solder. Never first time. always at least 5 miles from home.

BTW buy a spare emergency nipple for your tool case . They screw on but can get you home.

 

[Mr.Pete]

BTW buy a spare emergency nipple for your tool case . They screw on but can get you home.

Or buy a complete spare cable and tape it alongside the one you're using.It get's you back on the road in 5 minutes,and lasts a long time.

 

[ed_h]

Dave has it right--you spread out the individual wires in the inner cable so that they can't pull back through he hole. The solder keeps them spread.

Some more pics:

http://bullfire.net/Triumph/Triumph28/Triumph28.html

 

[JME]

Dave, Ed and Mr Pete, thanks for the advice, links and pics. I think my soldering skills have been upgraded by this great advice.

 

[Armen]

What is the correct solder to use? Separate flux or flux core? Do you like using an iron or a torch?
thanks
(guess this counts as hijacking the thread)
-Armen

 

[japes1275]

Use plain solder and a separate flux. You need a big iron or a blow torch set as low as it will go without blowing out. I use a blow torch.

I did my brake and clutch cables last week, I always order universal cables now as it's too hit and miss with the made up ones.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Tony,

Firstly, arguing about different-length control cables on T100 variants is utterly-irrelevant louse milking; there isn't any major physical difference in the location of the clutch lever and the gearbox between 1969 and 1970 (or 1959 and 1974); the only difference is the US- and UK&GE-market 'bars, which is taken care of by the two different-length cables.

According to my supplier (Walridge) the 47" outer 1970 T100C clutch cable is for Domestic UK bars.

Secondly, Walridge is at least partially-wrong:-

. In 1970, Triumph produced two separate parts books, one for the US variants and one for UK & General Export variants. Hence, in 1970, the two cables shown in the all-variants 1969 parts book appear in physically-different books; extrapolating that the single cable appearing in one book covers both markets is wrong.

. That said, ime it's wise to use the longer US-market clutch (and throttle) cable(s) irrespective of whether you use US or UK&GE 'bars; with the narrower 'bars, pass the additional cable length in front of and around the frame headstock to maintain the desirable wide-radius bends in the cables even on full lock.

got the right length according to the parts manual (outer 42 inches, inner 46 inches).

Curious, which manual? Although I happen to have the information from Triumph drawings (which is similar to but not the same as the figures quoted so far), I can't find any actual figures printed in parts books I have?

Because it's curious that the figures you're quoting are exactly the difference between US- and UK&GE-markets' overall lengths, not the difference between inner and outer lengths - I've measured my perfectly-adjusted and -working T100R clutch cable and the difference is 3-1/2", not 4"; this includes both nipples as the inner passes through both of them.

Hth.

Regards,