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Hi Dave :)
if you have an old throttle cable the longest bit being from grip too three way splitter,
you could strip the ends shove one end in a drill,
the splay the other end slightly and shove that up the back bone then start the drill.
Be very careful while it is spinning as it will flap around if you pull it all the way out the tank,
and it could take you eye out!! :eek:
think like a dynorod idea.

a pair of tights/nylons will make a better filter than paper as you say paper tends to clog up.
Or you could use the original top-hat filter if you have one ;)
 

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DaveM said:
Maybe the filter paper is too fine
Did you state what type of filter it was that seemed to dis-integrate?

Mine is a cartridge type filter from 'Fram' that matched the one supplied with the kit.

Somewhere down the line, have heard of problems/ complaints with 'Fram' filters- but no specifics.

?
 

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Old undershirts make good filters. You are not going to seed the findings from the straining exercise to a lab, I assume, so sticking a magnet in it will tell you how much is iron oxide.

I think that just cleaning it out and feeling confident you got most of it, if not all, should be sufficient.

Regarding Fram filters, when you compare their internal construction to another top brand like Purolator or similar, the Fram internas are kinda flimsy. They have cardboard end caps.

Could be when all is said and done, they are quite adequate if the oil filter are change regularly. I've unwrapped a few filters to compare and if I remember right, the Frams tended to have less surface area, meaing they will plug faster. Again, if changed regularly, could be fine and the others are overkill. But I wonder about this because your average person does not tear apart cartridge filters to compare constructions so why make them any better than they need to be. This makes me think the Frams are probably just barely good enough and the others are good as they need to be or perhaps a bit better than they need to be.

regards,
Rob
 

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a pair of tights/nylons will make a better filter than paper as you say paper tends to clog up.
Or you could use the original top-hat filter if you have one ;)
More good tips from Plewsey!!

I have used old nylons for years to strain paint, and just about everything else. Highly recommended. RR
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yeas, I thought about nylons so will get organised. When I said that the filter was blocked, I meant my "Investigation" filter -a coffee one.

Good idea about the cable Plewsy - I wandered around B&Q's plumbing section looking at drain stuff and also other electrician's access gear. I had wondered about using an old speedo but the control cable is good

I don't know the make of the filters that I use, I tend to get them from the better suppliers. The B25 has metal ends and a perforated metal inside, with the yellow paper being folded up fan like around the outside. No complaints about it's ability yo collect gunk.

I tend to think that you can over analyze this, but I've only found one other guy with the same problem (britbike) I'll clean it as best as I can and spend all day getting it as clean as poss.

It's partly my fault as I ride to work if the weather's nice but it's not really far enough. But now I've seen the problem I can keep an eye on it.
 

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Rob,

You may well have seen this, but makes good reading for those who have not.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#OilFilters

RR
Wow, that site has certainly been expanded upon since I last looked it it. This was the site I would tell folks about whenever an oil thread would pop up in the past. I think it provides a fairly objective view on oil and filters and helps make an informed decision. It is this article that made me move to Rotella T on those bikes that use an oil in that viscosity range.

The Fram filter reply supports the thought that the filter meets the requirements. Notice the reply mentions "internally targeted design guideline". For those of you not familiar with corporate jargon, that's a fancy way of saying "costs". Make it meet the technical requirements as cheaply as possible. Not that it does not work and they could very well have a superior product over metal end cap filters.

Yes, I agree Dave, this topic can be overthought. In the gas turbine business, we normally do not specify a brand. We provide a spec for oils, filters, and such and tell the customer to find a vendor who has products that meet the specs. We will occasionally evaluate a product if it brings superior peformance.

regards,
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #28
ok.

so I used Plewsy's idea of the throttle cable but modified it a bit.
(great idea by the way, I'd looked at all sorts of brushes and drain cleaner things)

I had some plastic coated 6mm wire rope that I trimmed the covering off by about 2-3 inches. I then splayed the ends out to form a brush and first slid a bit of copper tube over it, first as a guide, but also to act as a shroud so i could get the thing up the frame.

i took a picture of the MK1 but discovered that the copper tube was too large, so swapped it for a bit of garden hose roughly 6-7 inches long.

This allowed me to get it past the oil return and gave me control of where it went. Connected it to a drill and ran it while plunging it up and down the tube. It cleared out quite a bit of surface crud.

I then used about 4 litres of paraffin in my pressure gun, along with an extension tube at times to wash the higher bits of the tube, collecting the waste in a white plastic tub. I'd clean out the tub from time to time, looking at what came out, and cleaning again.

Eventually, the paraffin came out paraffin colour and all the oil and other stuff has gone.

Now,....

I think that the best idea is to stick some engine oil in the gun and blast a bit up the spine to cover the cleaned tube, refit the filter and base plate and refill it.

Then I was going to use the pump as is to pump out the remaining engine oil either by kicking or starting the bike. I would disconnect the return to pump the old stuff into a waste container .

I could connect the pump either to the clean oil, or stick the hose in a container of fresh oil.

Once that's done, I'll look at the pump itself. But I'd rather clear out the old stuff first.
 

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