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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The AI is removed on my T100. I could have my pipes chromed again, with a very good quality tripple chrome. Also, the pipes would be very well cleaned inside (in an acid bath), so I could put Kreem Blue Shield inside. I wonder if then, the pipes would still get blue...anyone tried it ?
 

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Probably an easier and cheaper first route is just to polish the blue off with some appropriate chrome cleaner. Chances are your pipes will blue again, so go this route first, then if they do blue up again you won't have so many $$s into it.

I am pro blue, so it doesn't matter to me luckily.
 

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Am I blue?

The only way you're gonna get pipes without blue on em is to get double pipes, pipe inside gets blue, pipe on the outside stays nice and shiny.
Most of us kinda like the blue, just part of the bike's good looks.
The blue is simply oxidation. To remove it you can periodically buff the blue out but unless you're a glutton for punishment just leaving it there is the way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In fact, I also like blue pipes...It looks classic and they're a good match with my blue T100. It's just that if they could stay like brand new, I'd like it too...! Thank's for your reply !
 

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Rode about 30 miles today and when I got home I noticed more blue on the pipes, and it looks like the header to cyl head flange, nut, whatever it is called, is very blue too. May have been before and I didn't notice it in the garage lighting.

Oil temp filler cap was on it when I bought it. When warmed up oil temp runs about 175 deg F. Anyone know if thats about right, or is my bluing increasing because its running hot, or am I getting concerned over nothing? My first few miles on a "new to me" bike learning curve.
 

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blue pipes are normal but too much not good means engine running to hot/lean,when i bought my 2007 t100 I noticed it would heat up real quick when I stopped at lights even for very short time.at first service the dealer removed the extra emission air control hoses and I noticed bike ran much better and doesnt overheat nearly as fast I could almost see the blueing effect growing further along the pipes .another thing I noticed for first 18000km I ran bike on 91 ron petrol no problems then after being convinced by others and the bike manual that it should run on 95 ron I changed and then began having all sorts of problems one of which was bike running hotter even after the dealer retuned carbs etc,so I went back to 91 ron and bike runs sweet and problem free,go figure,Brent
 

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Rode about 30 miles today and when I got home I noticed more blue on the pipes, and it looks like the header to cyl head flange, nut, whatever it is called, is very blue too. May have been before and I didn't notice it in the garage lighting.

Oil temp filler cap was on it when I bought it. When warmed up oil temp runs about 175 deg F. Anyone know if thats about right, or is my bluing increasing because its running hot, or am I getting concerned over nothing? My first few miles on a "new to me" bike learning curve.
180F for oil temps on an aircooled engine is considered perfect, so you are fine. I would be concerned when oils temps exceed 240F for extended periods when using synthetic; maybe 225F tops for dino oil.

Dick
 

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Thanks

180F for oil temps on an aircooled engine is considered perfect, so you are fine. I would be concerned when oils temps exceed 240F for extended periods when using synthetic; maybe 225F tops for dino oil.

Dick
Thanks for the reply. One less thing to think about.

Great forum for Q's and A's.
 

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My 2005 T100 has A/I removed, bafflectomized mufflers, 112.5 mains. The bike starts well in the cold (i.e. its not running lean). The pipes still turn blue although slowly.
Out of curiosity, I took a Fluke thermometer with a thermocouple home over the weekend. Pipe temperature at the junction between the weld and the pipe right outside of the head was 595° to 605°F.
I'm just saying this because without some sort of heatsink or double wall pipe, or something else, the bluing will return. I've also read about some sort of ceramic coating too somewhere in this forum, but I don't know what that really entails. You might do a search on it. If its an external coating it may drastically alter the looks of the pipes. If its an internal coating it will reduce the internal diameter of the pipes to some degree or other. I didn't want either one so I've never paid much attention to it. I think wrapping pipes or painting them is just ugly as burnt rope. But there are others who do not think so.

Re-chroming by itself in the attempt to get rid of bluing would be a waste of effort
 

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Jet Hot

I am also on the '67-72chevytrucks.com forum. There is a product that hot rodders and performance types use for headers (among other applications). A tough ceramic based (if memory serves) coating by a company called JetHot. Original applications were for US military parts to prevent corrosion and increase efficiency. You can send your parts to them, they coat 'em and send 'em back. Reduces heat radiation from headers, shiny chrome like finish, resists corrosion.

My observation for this application (Bonneville/T100/Thruxton pipes) is that the heat must go somewhere, and if it radiates less from the pipes will it start turning the muffler (silencer for our mates in the UK, Au, NZ) blue?

Have not used them myself, but only because I'm spending money on the motorcycle instead of my hot rod truck . . .

http://www.jet-hot.com/motorcycles.html

Your mileage may vary, check with dealer for details, always ride with proper protective gear, and all the other legal disclaimers we are so fond of ad naseum . . .
 

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hint

One thing I do when working on the bike with the engine running is to put a large box fan blowing on high right at the engine. I might suggest that it could be used if you had the bike in storage and wanted to crank the engine once in a while.
It is recommended that you not start and idle the bike while not moving since heat build up can come quickly and may be undesirable.
 

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JetHot info

I am not advocating this company, but since I mentioned them I wondered what they would charge for their service. I requested a quote today and they sent this info to me. I am not shilling for them and they have quite a bit of info, just thought I would share the portion that tells their prices.
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We really appreciate your interest in JET-HOT. This e-mail has your PRICE ESTIMATE, some technical information you need to have, along with a discount offer. .............................

We would charge you $160.00 to coat your in the sterling silver (1300F) finish inside and outside
Return shipping with insurance, packaging material, box (if needed) will be about $39.00

Sterling (Silver Finish/1,300F): is listed above
Extreme Sterling (1700F): Add $50 to Sterling price .............



TURN TIME: We will need your parts for 5 - 7 business days if you are getting a polished finish (Sterling or Extreme sterling). If you are adding a top coat color on your parts the turn time is 8 - 10 business days. If your parts require a strip you need to add an additional 3 days to the turn time. If you are getting any JH2000 or engine internals coated we will need your parts for
10 - 12 business days.
Note: Turn times are approximate, but held to strictly in all plants.
.......................................

Thats the price and turn around time info.

Don't know if I'll do it or not, but its something to think about for the wrenching season (next winter) after this riding season (now till the first snow next winter).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Back again with my first question : did anyone tried to have his pipes chromed again, put ceramic coating inside, as the air injection was removed ? Look at the actual opening page of Bella Corse web site http://www.bellacorse.com/home.htm ; the blue T100 is the same color than mine...and the pipes are just a very little yellow...like on the add of newbonneville for Kreem Blue Shield ? See : http://www.newbonneville.com/html/kreem_blue_shield.html
Is that possible ?
 

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This place is near me and allthough I didn't have the header pipes with me,they quoted me "around $80" to do them. The insides and outsides are done either black or a kind of brushed aluminum. Turn around time was about a week. The shop was full of bike and car go fast parts being done.http://www.koolcoatceramiccoatings.com/index.html

A friend who races a full blown mud bogger and a pro-stock drag racer swears by this ceramic coating stuff. Says the engines run cooler.
 
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