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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
k
so i used mobil 1 and i believe it was the wrong stuff ( maybe an additive) . so now when i wind it up in 4th gear ( and 5th and 6th) it slipps then grabs.
the bike has 13 k on it , i never wheelied it too much ( 15 - 3 gear , from first)( type wheelie) , really not too bad

the bike spends a very good portion of its life @ 140 mph.

the question :
being that i allready know im going to have to replace my clutch --- should i go and dump a can of "prolong" or some other " slik" ( in more than one way ) type of oil in the bike? , drive it around and then replace the clutch?

next question:
are there clutches that can operate in " a funny oil enviroment"?
like aftermarket clutches ( names or brands please)
do i have to buy a complete gasket kit to get a clutch cover gasket?

is replacing the clutch as straight foward as i might think it is ( pop cover (with the greatest of care as not to damage the gasket ) , remove top of basket , replace discs with new discs ( and springs ) , stick it together ( minding excact tourqe specs for every bolt touched )? - or more diabolical ( like the bolts have to be tourqed on the second full moon)

thanx any input or thoughts would be great
 

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When you say you used Mobil 1 was it car oil as this has friction modifiers in it to reduce wear(so they tell us ). Mobil1 4T is a Motorcycle specific oil which will not have a bad reaction to your cluch. If it wasn't slipping before the oil change, dump the oil and get new oil that is designed for 4 stroke bikes with wet cluch and it should be all good again.13,000ks should be nothing for a cluch and should be o.k for ages.
Cheers, Nev
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
im gonna guess it had some additive

but

do you think th additive might "wear out or off the clutch discs"?

its worth a shot - i dont want to crack this thing open if i dont have to

if ihave to replace the clutches im very tempted to hit it with prolong like stuff

thanx
 

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The additves in the oil are the cause of the slipping. Cars don't run wet cluches so they want everything to be as slippery as possible to avoid engine wear.
I have friends who have not replaced a cluch for 60,000 ks and are still going strong.
Change your oil to BIKE specific oil and forget the prolong or other crap. You do not need anything else apart from good engine oil ,otherwise all manufacturers would use the additives.
You will NEVER find a manufacturer who recomends anything other than oil in their engines. You are just throwing your money away for no gain.
In your Triumph Owners Manual it says NOT to use anything else apart from OIL.
Drop the mobil1 and replace with good Bike oil and you will fix your problems without having to change your cluch. Don't use car oil in your bike.
 

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NEV1050 has it right, but I will just add a little reinforcement.

The Triumph recco is to use fully synthetic Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W/50. Depending on weather where you live, you can use 10W/40 too. A similar high quality brand is OK to use, but must always be a MOTORCYCLE oil.

Do not forget to change the oil filter at the same time or you will be leaving some of your cheap oil in the engine.
 

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Thanks for the backup JohnD.
Let us know when you change the oil and give us the results
Where do you live to be able to ride at 140mph all the time?
Here in the Northern Territory we had an open speed limit untill 12 months ago.
Now the Guvmint has allowed us to travel at 130kms/hr on the open highway. How terribly good of them,Not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
new jersey usa

i pulled a slightly less than 25 min ride from barnegat nj to matawan nj
on the parkway exits 67 to 120

id hate to encourage it

i also did a ride to morristown on 287 (from x 120 pky) in like 22 min

again not recomended --(and questionably ethical)

i do video some of it (sooner or later it will hit youtube)

the bike had held a peak speed on a gps of 169 mph , for 4 min -all stock with the exception of 2 teeth taller in the rear sproket
again at those speeds its "VAPORIZED" not "KILLED"
im on stock tyres.
im doing the oil this weekend we will see.....
 

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Hi,
I just wrote this into another thread but it bears repeating:

Use oil with the "JASO MA" certification. It is true you can find other oils that do not have the friction modifiers and which do not have this certification. It is true that they will work fine. I am not arguing that point at all. But you can definitely eliminate a guessing game if you use oil with the JASO MA certification. I would not think you should have to do anything else. This will probably "fix" your clutch. I know I'm Bonnie owner writing in a Dayton thread but this oil is definitely the stuff for wet clutches on motorcycles. JASO MA means it IS a motorcycle oil.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Use oil with the "JASO MA" certification


is awsome info

even though im gonna dump what ever the dealer says into the bike
( untill i get this clutch thing worked out )

but after that , likely something else.

i was under the impression that if i used "additive oil " it would be absorbed into the plates and not likely "cooked"out

it would be nice to not have to buy a clutch , and a gasket kit ( for one gasket )

thanx
 

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I used regular 15/50 mobil1 car oil, I think it used to be red cap, now gold cap in my RS for 5-6 years w/o any problems and now in my 02 Tiger w/o any problems. Perhaps the way you ride the bike is indicative of some extreme clutch wear and the oil makes it seem worse? I've never used anything but motorex in my 06 tona, but the lesser bikes I didn't really care what was in them. I'd try some different oil and then if it doesn't go away look at the clutch for wear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i romp on it , but not too many wheelies (very few) - very easy on the downshift ( i dont drag the back tire into a turn ) - heck i dont use it after first all that much ( i shift pretty good )

it might be the oil
it might be the clutch ( the adjusters out on the lever ) --so the clutch could be worn - but not right for the type of miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
nope
it was fine , then oil , then bad

in 4th it slips then grabs ,5th about the same

it doesnt "blow out" or slip completly

id imagine , if one could adjust the slip properly it would be a good thing for a track
 

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no one mentioned it but a lot of motorcycle owners use shell rotella t synthetic oil. you can get it at wallmart for under 20 bucks a gallon. it is not a motorcycle specific oil but trust me when i say tons of people use it and swear by it. plus you can't beat the price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok here it is so far

i went to my local triumph dealer ( freehold honda and triumph ) , got a triumph filter , got mobil 1 t ( with a picture of a daytona on the front of the bottle ) FOR 80 USD , and a 1 buck oil plug washer.

first ride = it still slipps ( but might be better )

so -for the cost of clutch plates , i did 1 oil change.

im inclined to drive it sliping and see if it gets any better ( i did put a few miles on the "other oil" ) - - perhaps it might burn off the plates ( wishfull thinking )

has anybody done a clutch in one of these?
do i have to buy a complete entire every single gasket kit ( the only one i can find ) OR is there ANY option for the clutch cover gasket???

im slick enough to re used the old one , but would rather do it right.

help
 

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You seem determined to want to change the cluch so if it makes you feel better, go ahead and change it.
My opinion: ride it for a while and let the new oil soak into the cluch for a while. If it was not causing problems before you put car oil in it, why do you think that the cluch plates are stuffed?
Ride it for a week or 2 and see how it goes.
Seems like you are trying to make the bike perform like a GSXR1000 which it isn't. Only my opinion though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yessss , a gsxr 1000 would be very nice , very very nice

im gonna give it some time
it took about 2 weeks for tho other "oil" to show this problem , so i figure it might take a bit to straighten out

but wile i wait for it to self cure--
i thought id try to find a gasket ( i can get plates )
my dealer wants me to get an entire engine kit.
i would risk using a pizza box before i do that
 

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Mobil

Hi All.....I wanted to switch to a better oil than I was using last year, so this year I changed to Mobil1, one that is a bit easier on the pocket book, and easier to get.I tried to buy the Mobil1 4t 15W40 here in Canada, it is not availbe in North America according to the Tech Representative that I talked to at Mobil.Our Northern equivalent is Mobil1 4T 10W40.The weight is the same (40).......the 10 signifies the temp rating and of course the W is for the Winter capabilities. The 4 apparently is for 4 stroke engines and the T is for transmission combo's like our bikes.I have only had the bike so far for one very short ride this season,no problems at all.
 
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