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The top eye is probably an eighth of an inch too wide to go into the mount. Bottom is no biggie as a couple of spacers could have been used. It's no big deal as it was a $20 try to save the price of a hagon. But I do believe we're on the right track here trying to find something better off of another bike. It may also be that between the Adventurer and the later Legend the dimension changed on the mount.
Just flip it over!!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Maybe you can take care of that 1/8" with a good file?
I agree. Removing 1/16" from each side of the bolt spacer (it is steel) with a Dremel shouldn't be too difficult at all. It is a simple fix, really.
Folks, I am not saying that the ZX shock will give you Ohlins like ride quality, but it is certainly much better than the over damped (compression) stock unit and it will increase rear wheel travel as well. All for very small investment.
When I first bought my bike last spring, the motor immediately stood out as being strong, and the rear suspension immediately stood out as a being poor (I live around some very hacked up roads). With this <$50 investment, the bike has been transformed into a very pleasant daily rider. My lovely passenger immediately noticed the difference. That surprised me. I suppose that I should have replaced the bottoming cushion while I had the shock apart (my experience with the Race Teck bottoming cushions has been very favorable - CR250, KX250). Most cushions that I have seen on bikes this old are completely useless and deteriorated.
Anyway, I hope that you are able to get this shock to fit your bike, as I feel guilty about giving anybody bad advise and having them invest money into something that does not work for them.
Just a note to Mick, JimmyJ, Badmouth, and others - **Thank You** all for supporting and contributing your knowledge to this forum. You have made this site *the* place to go for Triumph support.
 

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No worries man

I take advice on things like this at my own peril. It was two different years of bikes etc... I probably will try and trim it down on one end and shim it up on the other when I get some time . In the meantime the Progressive front fork springs have made a big difference.
As you say I appreciate all the advice and talk on this forum including yours.
 

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Just flip it over!!! :)
I know this is probably a joke, but it would be a really bad idea - a lot of shocks wont work upside down
 

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Please continue this discussion.

It sounds like some of you are getting continuing to work on this idea. PLEASE continue to keep us updated. So many of us have dying shocks and I would love to come up with a solution like this for my 99 Legend. Thanks again Greg for posting the original thread.
 

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ok well , my zx7 (91-92) 12.50 on ebay shock just arrived . looks like a 15 yr old shock lol . shaft is shiny and good for about 1 3/4 before any pitting . (theres only bout 3" of shaft showing anyway so shouldnt be a problem )

length seems to be about right 13 5/8 " c-c . bolt holes are 12 mm . width at top bushing is 30 mm ( 1 3/16" +or- ) . width at bottom yoke is 32 mm ( 1 1/4 ) .

it has a plastic dial on the bottom and a schraeder valve at the top ( for nitrogen ?)

if anyone has a stock one they could measure ? lots of talk bout fitting not fitting but no measurements .

oh and an aside question , where are you guys buying your progressive front springs ?

thanx :)
 

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oh and an aside question , where are you guys buying your progressive front springs ?

I got mine from MAW (Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse) on e-bay, they also have an online store but I don't know how the pricing on the part compares there. Good price and this is the second thing I've found them there cheaper on. Just look for the number on the spring since they don't list our bikes on their own. 11-1144 is the number of the spring you're looking for, sometimes application says for a V-Max.

I should have measured when I had them both out on the ground but I was a little too frustrated to think about it then. Went through all the cutting discs I had tonight on the Dremel so I'll get some more and get back after it this weekend.
 

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Definitely meant as a joke! (that's why i put the smiley in ..)
I know... but I thought I'd just point that tip out for other folks (some people on this forum do some very ill advised things at times) - of course the shock on the classics cant be inverted anyway as the end fittings are very different
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I have my stock shock sitting on a shelf, but I will not be able to provide measurements until about 8 hours from now. Check back later and I will post them here.
-Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Stock 1996 Adventurer shock dimensions:
Lower clevis inside width: 1.212"
Top eye bushing width: 1.175"
Eye center distance: 13 1/4"
Bolt holes: 12mm
 

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awesome gregp , sounds perfect in regards to the 91-92 zx7 shock i got .

many thanx

that schreader valve on mine ? nitrogen ? air ?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The shock is designed to receive nitrogen. The ZX shock has no bladder or piston to separate the gas from the fluid. As such, the fluid and gas will mix. This shock is designed to operate in this way. I used 10w fluid and the damping is right on target.
If your shock has pitting on the shaft, you can expect rapid failure of the seal, even if replaced with a new one.
If you are rebuilding this shock yourself, be sure not to over fill it with fluid. As the shock compressed, the piston shaft will displace volume in the shock body. In other words, the shaft will take up "space" and you will need to leave enough "space" for this to occure. If you do not leave enough room, the shock will rupture (blown seal, exploded shock body) as soon as you hit a large bump and the shaft is forced into an area without enough room for the fluid and shaft volume.
To be sure that you are Ok, compress the shock by hand, without the spring installed. If the shaft comes to sudden hard stop before it has bottomed out, bleed off some fluid with the schraeder valve until you can actually compress the bumper cushion by bottoming the shock.
It's not rocket science, but you do have to be careful
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
BTW- Even though the shock is designed to receive nitrogen, I know plenty of guys, myself included, that have used air or CO2 without incident. If you are going to use a compressor, try to get as close to 200psi as possible. Don't worry. The shock holds so little that even if you pump the shock up to 200psi, as soon as you remove the filler hose from the schraeder valve (you've got to be quick!) you will be lucky to end up with 100psi.
Normal shock gas pressures can run from 150psi to as high as 250psi or higher.
In this particular shock, the gas pressure is used primarily to keep the seal head from "collapsing" into the shock body upon compression. When you attempt to rebuild this shock, you will see what I mean.
There are special attachments that limit this loss that are used by professional suspension shops. They can be seen and purchased either at Race-Tech or even in some mail order catalogues.
I am sure that I have opened myself up to some criticism for even suggestion that the use of air might be suitable to use for this application, and that is Ok. Just so you know, the main reason nitrogen is used is that it is inert, that is, it does not expand with heat. Some other reasons are that it is "dry" (compressed air will typically contain moisture that may corrode some internals. Eventually.), and it is plentiful.
As long as you keep your classic off of the motocross track on a 110 degree day, you *should* be fine.
I fully expect to get clobbered by suspension experts over these posts. :)
 

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Done!

Got the ZX shock on this morning. Had to cut away some material on the top, ground smooth that area, and added a washer just to make sure it was smooth enough (guess I cut too much away) and add spacer washers on the bottom. It sits really high but what a difference in ride! Long travel is evident as soon as you sit and there were no more jarring bumps when moving. Only got about 20 minutes on it as other comittments are infringing on the day but I can tell there is a difference and it is dramatic.
 

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I have one of those shockies on the way, the cost is a carton of Hahn Premium light beer. I will grab it tomorrow.
 

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260 miles on the shock!

Got a long ride in yesterday and there is a draqmatic difference. Very smooth, soaks up bumps without that jar at the end on large pavement irregularities. 260 miles of frost heaved Wisconsin highway including around 80 on the interstate and I'm sold on this mod. No detriment to handling in any way I found yesterday, it's all good. Handling may be a tab quicker but that would be the only difference, not twitchy just quick. No loss of stability at 80MPH on the highway either.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I am very happy to hear that this mod has worked out for some folks. My ZX shock is now "permanently" installed and will not be coming back out. For me, there is not a better "bang for your buck" mod to be had with these bikes.
As I had mentioned earlier, I had to install a new wiper and seal on my ZX shock. It was *very* difficult to install the new seal. If I had to do it again, I would pony up the $35 for a complete seal head.
- Greg
 

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I would say around an inch or so. There is quite a bit of the other side showing when you look through the bike over the rear tire. But as soon as you sit on it I would say it goes to about the same. The only concern I have with it is the angle when on the sidestand now.
In any event I think GregP found us a nice little solution here! Thanks man.
 
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