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Discussion Starter #1
Over the last couple of weeks there has been quite a bit of talk about immobilizers/kill switches in various threads, and so I thought of coming up with something cheap, reliable and easy to do. Not a new idea by any means but provides an alternative option to more expensive ones. This is based around the same remote controlled relay that has appeared in other threads as keyless ignition. It has only 3 wires to connect to the alarm connector and measures around 2 inches square, so it is ideal for fitting in tight spaces.
The 12 volt remote relay is widely available on eBay for around £5 with a range of different push button fobs and comes in a small plastic box which can simply be stuck down with foam tape. It operates (in ideal conditions) with a range of about 100m but if surrounded by a lot of metal this can be halved.
An important point to remember about its behaviour is that it activates (immobilizes) automatically when the ignition is turned off. The fob button is only needed to de-activate it after switching the ignition on.


 

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Another great contribution to the community, Simple and effective :bow
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I presume that as it only arms when the power cuts out that it is effectively fail safe and therefore can't cut the engine out whilst riding?
Like with everything, that depends - if you have an electrical fault, even without the immobilizer the engine will cut. You can also use the fob button to cut the engine with the ignition on, but I can't see why you would want to do that. The immobilizer works by replacing the link between pins 1 and 2 of the alarm connector with the contacts of a relay. With the ignition on, pressing the fob button activates the relay and makes the connection between pins 1 and 2 - the bike runs. When you switch off the ignition the power to the relay is cut and the relay drops out - the bike is now immobilized. To start the bike again you must first switch on the ignition then press the button on the fob. The relay will hold contact for as long as the ignition is on. It is possible to modify the wiring so that the button is required to immobilize as well as disarm but I did it this way to avoid the tiny current drain on the battery when the bike is standing. The kill switch is on the same circuit but further down the line, so if you use the kill switch to stop the engine the bike will not be immobilized.
 
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