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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I did check out the sticky file on electrickery etc, but as I had to charge the battery again recently. Thought I would present this issue to the crowd. I'm sure someone knows whats going on. Perhaps this is normal?

Symptom, Charging seems to be mostly OK at idle and can reach 14V just above idle, but as the revs rise the charging voltage drops into what I think is the poor range ~ 12.5V

Check out the video
https://youtu.be/GEc54fnPpYc
 

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Looks like a Regulator/Rectifier problem. But before you buy a new one check connections at the R/R harness to frame harness for burns or loose fit, check all connections including battery cables. You may also want to check the alt. AC output, search how to do that on this forum or U tube.
 

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Classic symptom of a failing rectifier/regulator.
Interestingly, your favorite RR155 on the Electrex site shows "catalog suspended"..., so I guess I'm screwed if mine ever packs it in... :(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you - thought it looked suspicious - and explains why I was getting a flat battery even after running the bike.
In the threads i was looking at the yamaha seemed a favorite replacement, although the wiring could be a bit of a challenge.

OK, more searching. - 5 wire regulator rectifier :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Hmmmm.... Over $200 for genuine Triumph part that will fail again OR (amazon links below)...

This one for $43 ? Is 50Amps going to be enough? 350W/13V = 27A That should fry any battery or wire harness

Or this one for $73. It has a name Triumph and Ducati attached to it, which makes it worth much more.

Now I have to consider if they are knock-offs or what???

I Imagine you just tie the extra reds together (bonnie black with red stripe wire) and blacks together (bonnie black with white stripe-ground) to get it back to 5 wires. Does it matter how the yellows are connected to the Triumph black wires?

Another fun project - still haven't finished the oil cooler lines yet (found some hose, but clamps I'm not happy yet)
 

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The one from Bella Corse is the one you want. Plug and play.
 
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Try - roadstercycle.com - for your improved regulator needs in USA.
Tom
I agree, they have one crimp and go kit for $128.95 and a kit for Triumph triples for $114.95 that can be cut and crimped or soldered to the twins. The good thing about this route is once it's wired up you can use a Shindengen FA020AA or SH847 R/R. Or in case your traveling and need a replacement and are three states away from one of the few Triumph dealers one can be found at a near by Indian, Harley, Polaris, Yamaha or other dealer with the same wiring terminals, plug and go.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That Ricks regulator looks like a good option - thanks for the heads up (why couldn't I find that on the Bella Corse site? - I did take a quick look, but clearly that wasn't enough)

I see Rick is also starting a line of regulators that work with LiFePO4 batteries. I'm asking him a question (via youtube) to see if his current model will work with a voltage sensitive LiFePO4 battery. I'll probably need to change to that battery in about a year.

The LiFePO4 in my FZ is now 2 years old this month and is doing great. Sits for at least a month with no trickle charging and then fires up just fine, can't say that for any of the lead acids I've had (bikes or cars) I'm beginning to become a convert to the new tech. The yamaha charges at 14.25V pretty consistantly at all rpms, so I think it will work
 

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Beware of cheap knockoffs. Seems like I've seen a few posts recently about cheap ebay ones causing problems, like over-voltage. Which sucks more than under-voltage. One guy around here somewhere noticed his battery was smoking after a ride and wondered if that was a bad sign ... I'd want @Forchetto to confirm, but I think smoking batteries are typically not a good sign :)
 

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The LiFePO4 in my FZ is now 2 years old this month and is doing great. Sits for at least a month with no trickle charging and then fires up just fine, can't say that for any of the lead acids I've had (bikes or cars) I'm beginning to become a convert to the new tech.
I have the above-mentioned Rick's R/R in my bike and the stock Yuasa YTX12-BS battery. The current battery is about three years old. It doesn't need trickle charging for the five months it sits every winter. A good lead-acid battery that is properly charged by the vehicle charging system will hold its charge a long time, certainly for a month.

The new batteries are over-rated. People get them and then complain here about problems with them. Most of our forum members' lead-acid "battery problems" (myself included) have been charging system problems, current leakage problems, and old or cheap batteries.
 
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One guy around here somewhere noticed his battery was smoking after a ride and wondered if that was a bad sign ... I'd want @Forchetto to confirm, but I think smoking batteries are typically not a good sign :)
Boeing seems to think that smoking batteries in the 787 are not good.
 
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Beware of cheap knockoffs. Seems like I've seen a few posts recently about cheap ebay ones causing problems, like over-voltage. Which sucks more than under-voltage. One guy around here somewhere noticed his battery was smoking after a ride and wondered if that was a bad sign ... I'd want @Forchetto to confirm, but I think smoking batteries are typically not a good sign :)
AGM batteries accept different levels of voltages depending on their application. For standby use, like on an UPS, Alarm systems, etc 13.5-13.8 Volts gives us a good compromise between depth of charge and life expectancy (about 5 years+).

For traction or starting batteries like ours (cyclic application) the voltage can be raised to 14.4 or as much as 15 volts. This provides a much deeper charge.

If a regulator fails to cut off the voltage at that maximun level the battery overcharges, heats-up, the sides bulge and it starts to smoke. The fumes are corrosive as well...
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I did get a reply from Ricks Electrics and he stated his 10_004H regulator is set for 14.5V +/- 0.2V

He is developing a new series of regulators specifically for the LiFePO4 battery from Ballistic. Their batteries have a max voltage of 14.4V, so i assume he will be setting the cut-off voltage at 14.2V for that battery and that would be safe for the other batteries too?
Checking on a couple of other brands I see that Kinetic says 14.6V max and Battery Tender (deltran) says 14.8Vmax

So if I get ricks electric regulator it will work fine with the lead acid until it croaks, then I can switch to a battery tender battery with no issues.

I wonder what the standard charging voltage is for vehicles, or if there is one???
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have the above-mentioned Rick's R/R in my bike and the stock Yuasa YTX12-BS battery. The current battery is about three years old. It doesn't need trickle charging for the five months it sits every winter. A good lead-acid battery that is properly charged by the vehicle charging system will hold its charge a long time, certainly for a month.

The new batteries are over-rated. People get them and then complain here about problems with them. Most of our forum members' lead-acid "battery problems" (myself included) have been charging system problems, current leakage problems, and old or cheap batteries.
My FZ came with a YAUSA battery as stock OEM. It lasted a tad under 2 years here in the Arizona desert, which is about par for the course. The high average temperature here kills batteries fast. You can expect about 2-3 years out of a car battery and 3 perhaps 4 out of a bike battery.

With cars we play the warranty game - get a battery with the longest warranty and get it tested just before the free replacement period expires OR when it starts to crank the engine over just a little bit slower than usual - you have to learn that difference, cos when they die it's instant. Drive to the store, fine, come back out and it won't even do the rapid clicking. Recently tried to jump start a guys car at a supermarket parking lot, it wouldn't even take a jump from my car with a running engine. It was dead... and so were all his frozen groceries. Sad.

With bikes you are just screwed, they are only now starting to warranty batteries, but not for long enough. So other solutions are entertained :)

Do be aware of the charging voltage limit on LiFePO4 batteries. They are real!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Solution:
Replacing the regulator worked.
If you are snowed in, watching the 7 minute video might get your minds off of the endless nor'easters. in the states.
If you are having battery going flat issues, check out the first 30 seconds of the video.
If not, go out and ride.

https://youtu.be/RiYmHiP2C98

Oddly, when I was taking a test ride, it did seem to run better - extra voltage to the coil??? who knows.

Now I can get on with the oil cooler line replacements - I think I have a solution, but I need to run the bike a bit longer to confirm the clamps I picked worked - a little unconventional
 
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