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Foreword: This is a reference thread only - for discussion and general Q&A regarding Generating System issues, please contribute to this thread

Subsequent to originally writing this thread, my current endorsement for best choice R/R replacement is the Shindengen SH847 Series R/R (scroll down towards bottom for details)

MOSFET R/R are a great reliability improvement on the OEM SCR type R/R, in its own right as the R/R device.
However they do nothing to add reliability to the stator, whereas the Series Style greatly enhances this aspect.
A Series R/R significantly reduces the load on the stator which will run close to half of the current as it would with a Shunt R/R (whether that be SCR or MOSFET)
Ergo the stator runs less hot and reliability is significantly improved.


This mod applies equally to most modern bikes regardless of the marque/model.

The defining factor regardless of motorcycle brand/year/model is that your bike has the discreet 3-phase Stator/Generator and Rectifier/Regulator arrangement

As a preliminary, acknowledgements due to OldnDumb and CLB for their previous inputs on this subject.

This is about replacing the standard equipment Regulator/Rectifier with a more efficient component. You can do this in event of failure rather than replace with the same stock component, or you can even do as a preventive measure if desired.

As a prologue, let me introduce a basic troubleshooting process to determine whether you have a charging system failure.

Diagnostics:

A good Multi-meter is a pre-requisite.


Record your battery voltage under the follow conditions
1) Ignition off, unloaded battery.
2) Ignition on, headlights on, not running
3) Bike started, running at idle

For condition 1, should be at least in the high 12.x range if fully charged.

In condition 2, your voltage should not drop much below 12.0 at worst. (It may continue to drop – hopefully slowly! – as your lights will be discharging it. However this should be a slow decline)
If it does drop immediately into the 11’s, your battery is insufficiently charged – if it was just charged from a battery charger however, then it indicates your battery no longer has sufficient capacity to retain charge/supply current to load and should be replaced.

Condition 3 is what we are most interested in with respect to charging capability.
Voltage should be at least in the 13’s at all engine rpm. You may detect it will fall off slightly as you raise engine rpm. This is not atypical performance. A simple mod that can enhance your charging voltage to the battery can be achieved by this modification outlined in this thread. That should give you performance in the 14V+ range.

What if you have less than 13V?
First thing to check is the fuse in the charging circuit. Ask on the forum for your particular model which one you should check if in doubt.

Next, examine the wires and connectors between the stator output and the R/R input (three wire harness and connectors) – are these charred/melted due to excessive heating? This is fairly common result of poor connection between the mating terminals. See later in thread for examples of this issue & suggested replacements.

A ‘cold’ resistance check for shorted diode/SCR:
Unplug both input & output plugs from R/R;
With your meter set to read resistance (use a diode test if the your multi-meter has one), test from each pin of the three pin plug, to both the red & black wired pins of the 4-pin plug; NONE of these should read short circuit (zero resistance); depending which way you bias the test leads, you may get some reading (from the forward bias of the component) but it must absolutely not be a short. If you see a short on any of these readings the R/R is defective.

Next, do a resistance check on the stator (check at the cable connector going back towards the stator itself).
This test is typically unlikely to show any definitive issue, whether good or bad - unless there is a complete open circuit to one pin, perhaps indicating broken wire connection
Some guides suggest you can see a difference between the readings if there is a burned coil - highly unlikely that you have a meter that is capable of differentiating.
So really just looking for basic continuity here.
Measure between the three respective combinations of the three pins:
1-2
2-3
3-1
This time each of these should measure almost short circuit (very low resistance in order or about 1 ohm)

This next check is probably the simplest/quickest way of determining a stator problem
- in majority of cases a bad stator will be indicated by failing following test:
Check resistance from any one pin to the engine ground terminal – this should not read any indication – maximum resistance or open-circuit.
If you read ‘short’ in that last test, then your stator is bad.
(if open, it is not quite guaranteed your stator is good however - but in majority of cases a failed stator will fail this isolation test)

An additional test you can do (but honestly the isolation test above will indicate a pretty conclusive pass or fail):
Check the AC voltage output from the stator with engine running:
Leave stator disconnected from the R/R and start the engines.
With meter set to read AC Volts check
1-2
2-3
3-1
All three should be the same value – any significant difference of one reading will indicate a bad phase and the stator is probably defective.
At idle this should be ~ 20V* and rise to ~ 70V* at 5K rpm.
I hesitate to use absolute numbers here as this can be different between models and test equipment and especially the engine rpm!
What you are looking for is same value between phases and like increase on each phase as rpm increases.
If any of the above tests raises suspicion, pull the cover & inspect the stator. It is simple to do and can set your mind at ease by seeing what it looks like. Hopefully NOT with 1/3 of it a black charred mess!

If you have to replace the stator and R/R, especially because of a shorted R/R and excess current drain, be especially careful to ensure that your wiring has not been compromised. Replace any cable &/or connector plug that is not in optimum condition.

One of the best sources for a replacement Stator (and my recommendation) is Ricks MotorSport Electrics (link)

Now on to the alternative R/R replacement

Preface: When this thread first written, there really wasn't a good Series Regulator widely available as a replacement candidate. Now there are a couple of options that are in play.
This thread is read by many non-Triumph owners so I will define the replacement strategy into two groups

1: If your bike marque/model generally has a robust stator with low failure rate amongst the population, then MOSFET Regulator remains a good reliability improvement for high-failure SCR Shunt Regulators.

2. If your bike marque/model suffers from a relatively high failure rate in the general population, then MOSFET Regulator will do NOTHING to improve this situation and selection of a Series* style Regulator becomes a much better choice.

* The short version is that a Series Regulator will run much lower current in the stator and so it will have the stator itself producing lower dissipated power, run cooler and be more reliable.
Generally, a much better device regarding the reliability of the stator. The only downside - until recently - has been cost vs good value MOSFET Shunt units. However that 'value' is achieved if stator replacement does not have to be added to the equation!

For more on Series Regulators read on down towards bottom of thread.

MOSFET SHUNT REGULATORS

Best widely available MOSFET Shunt R/R on the market today is the Shindengen FH012AA* used on the late (06+) Yamaha FJR, 07+ Yamaha R1 among others
What makes it better is that is a MOSFET controlled device rather than the crude SCR shunt type that is on most bikes until recently and also is a 50A rated device.
MUCH better voltage regulation and runs cooler too due to more efficient devices and control circuitry.
* Recently superseded by FH020

The SCR shunt type consumes more energy in the Regulator itself than the bike is using and dumps a ton of current into the heatsink (feel yours & just see how hot those things run!!!! - don't touch it - you'll burn yourself - seriously!) The problem is exacerbated because their efficiency goes even lower when they get HOT so it's a vicious circle. Heat is the number 1 killer of these devices.
Incidentally its a misconception that shunt type work harder with increased load i.e. higher-wattage lights, heated vests etc - actually, the higher the load on the output, the less work the shunt regulator does in dumping that excess energy and will actually run cooler!!

The FET has extremely low resistance in conducting state and this results in a lower dissipated power from the device while conducting load current, as opposed to the SCR which shunts the maximum current across a significant volt drop, resulting in a higher dissipated power - and resulting temperature, much more so than the FET device.


You can install this unit on your Triumph Sprint, S3, Daytona, TT600, Tiger; Suzuki TL, SV 650, SV1K;
or indeed ANY bike that has discreet three-phase stator and R/R arrangement.





These are starting to show up on the EBay market - there are many other bike models, simplest check is to use something like Ron Ayers to find all the match models. (Even Grizzly ATV uses it) I paid $32 plus shipping for mine. They are regularly available for < $50

The OEM Yamaha part number is 1D7-81960-00-00

On Ron Ayers website, there is a feature called where is it used
- enter that part number and it will give list of all the models/years that it is utilized on. Then when you find one on EBay you can validate it is the FH012.

Currently, lowest price (at time of writing) for brand new is from MRCycles at $136 plus shipping



Have the FH012 on the TL, and just converted the Triumph Daytona with same and ultimately the SV650 (which will receive the FH008 shown below).

The connector plugs are quite different to the OEM Triumph of course - SEE POST #6 FOR UPDATE ON SOURCE FOR THE CONNECTOR PLUGS

The best connection method IMO is to run the output leads directly to the battery (the '+' via a 30A fuse) - that minimizes any losses & you get the 'sensing' voltage directly at the battery terminals.

This is on a Triumph Sprint (coutesy of OldnDumb) - my TL & S3/Daytona installations are further down.



Another alternative that has MOSFET control, is the FH010 - this is used on late-model Kawasakis (ZZX10 /14).
I'm not sure of the power rating compared to the 012 (unable to find exact specs for it) but expect it would be similar to the 012 and should still be plenty for the Triumphs.
That 010 unit has same form factor as the 012.

Here is the end profile of the FH012: I'll post up some pics of it installed on my TL & S3 later.



Mechanical Installation:

Note that pitch between the mounting holes on the FH010 or FH012 is 70mm - the Triumph OEM are ~ 80mm
You can simply 'slot' the holes in the R/R heatsink body using a rat-tail file or Dremel to allow the bolts to align to the original mounting holes.
This will help satisfy the mounting requirements in the majority of cases.
In some other models, it may be necessary to fabricate an adapter plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's another one:

Most of the late model CBRs utilize the same type of R/R

The latest CBR1000 looks like it uses a model designated FH014 which looks very similar to the 12, but with different connectors.
(the ones listed below as available from Easten Beaver will NOT fit the FH014)

The pre '08 CBR1000 and the CBR 600 unit is also a Shindengen MOSFET unit. FH008EB - the 'F' designates it is an FET model - the Shunt/SCR ones by same manufacturer have an 'S' prefix. These have flying leads with connectors that can be removed & replaced with the Triumph or Suzuki ones - I prefer connecting directly to battery however.
Unfortunately I can't find exact specs on the FH008 unit but is still an excellent choice given it uses the MOSFET technology. Due to more compact size I suspect this is a 35A unit rather then the 50A FH012 model.
This is a good choice for TT600 - I used this one myself on the Mrs SV650.




My preference in connecting these is to eliminate the original bike harness wiring from the output entirely - connect 12ga wires directly from the output connector of the R/R to the battery terminals - female spade on the R/R end and ring terminal for the battery. For the positive lead, there should be an in-line 30A fuse on that leg.

I'm trying to find a source for the Furakawa waterproof connectors that should mate to it - have a supplier looking into that currently. The spades give good enough electrical connection but offer no strain relief - should not be an issue where its located and they're on there good & tight. (a little 'squeeze' on the female spades ensure a snug tight fit).

Connectors would be great though, no doubt.

Here's the pictures of the FHO12AA on my TLS:

It was just neater back there in that location on the 'S' vs the OEM which is further dforward & exposed below the tail plastics; although the heatsink fins are not in the the prime airflow (& oriented 90 from ideal), this thing barely breaks a sweat on temp relative to the SCR models, so I'm not too worried about it. After I've been out for an extended run I'll take a temp reading off it for you.
I also relocated the ambient air pressure sensor to accommodate.

The meter indicates the performance at idle - it was actually fluctuating a little at idle down to about 14.00 even (stil less than 2/10 of a Volt folks!), but became solid by 2000 rpm - revved to about 6K barely made much no difference right through that range, increased just off idle to 14.25V and held there pretty much. This thing has excellent regulation. :thumbup

Note that it also features a 'slow start' mode which initially caught me by surprise.
When you first start the bike, the output remains at battery voltage then slowly ramps to the full output - takes about 10 seconds or so to reach 14+.

So if you install one of these, be prepared for that feature!

Final configuration with the proper connector plugs (vs the temporary spade terminations above)



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Discussion Starter #3
And earlier tonight I finally got around to installing the Shindengen FH012AA on my Triumph Daytona/Speed Triple

A couple of notes on this one;
I found that the connector plugs between the stator output & the intermediate connector harness was in pretty bad shape; clearly had not been making good contact & arcing through the plugs.
I decide to eliminate the plugs & hard solder the connections.
At the R/R end of that intermediate harness, I eliminated the plug and using female spades, as before, connected the three phases directly to the input of the FH012AA.
For the output, these connections run via 10 ga wire directly to the battery; the +ve via a 30A fuse in a waterporoof connector.
I have some strain relief in place by virtue of the cable-ties snugged up on the wires to prevent it being pulled through the feedthrough holes.
Note also that I have used a copper heatsink, which was previously employed in my former set-up with the OEM R/R. But this is not really necessary with the Shindengen R/R but is left there as an added safety measure of insurance. Notice that I also cut some slots in the cooling fins of the heatsink, since I actually have this mounted transverse to the 'normal' natural airflow. I also used a heatsink compound paste (available at electronic supply - like RadioShack or Maplins) between the R/R and the heatsink to improve the thermal conduction between the two media.

* After running for extended time, the copper heatsink is absolutely unnecessary for the Shindengen - there is very little heat generated by the MOSFETs and it is of no concern. At this point it is no more than simply a mounting plate for my early gen sub-frame which originally had no provision for mounting even OEM.

In testing, you can immediately see the difference - regardless of the engine rpm, the output voltage remains constant. This shows that it is a TRUE regulator vs the crude SCR shunt of the OEM. Typical behaviour on the OEM SCR R/R is that the voltage will actually decrease as rpm increases - this seems counter-intuitive to many peoples logical thought, but it is because the R/R is actually sinking more as the generated voltage increase.

Here is the new R/R in final configuration with the 'proper' Furukawa connectors -



Here is the testing validation - bike is at idle but voltmeter actually reads consistently regardless of rpm.



And finally all buttoned up again with the tail skin back on. You can see the R/R under the plastics on the right side of bike. (Top of pic)
It is located in the air-stream while bike is mobile.
You can also see the fuse-holder in center-screen which is the connection between battery and R/R +ve output


 

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Some other retrofit suggestions:

Here is another consideration when wiring the FH012 - especially if your cable or connectors are already damaged by a shorted R/R.
Make a new interconnect harness between the stator output connector plug and the Regulator Input

You can source the OEM stator harness connectors here - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

See the Yazaki 3 pin set 3PF250K for Triumph or Sumitoma set 3PM250K if you have a Suzuki (most)

Or - you can replace the entire connector with a PAckard-Delphi MetriPack connector
These have a much more 'solid' interface for the opposing pins, providing a more secure, lower resistance connection and is a waterproof connector into the bargain.

You can find these from this EBay Vendor
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120414996046
(See post #9 for a visual of that connector set)


You can eliminate a connection point completely and use quality grade wire to go directly from the stator interconnect plug to the spade terminals for input to the R/R.




Cautionary Note!

Make sure you use a 30A fuse!

I 'borrowed' mine when I sold the OEM R/R complete with wiring mod for direct battery connection (didn't want to pass along to the buyer without a fuse or wrong fuse).
So I took mine & installed a 20A 'temporarily' - then promptly forgot!
Long story short, fuse blows while out n about today.
Got home safe fortunately, but lessons learned!
1. Fit correct fuse!
2. Install a battery indicator!
3. Carry spare fuses!

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A Voltage monitoring system is a good idea
There are multiple offerings on the market, from digital displays to LED indidators and choice on that is down to personal preference.
My personal preference is a simple LED indicator - a digital voltmeter is really not necessary.
However an accurate indication IS important to alert of problems: you really don't want your first indication to be when your bike quits running because the battery has drained due to a generating system failure.


And here is mine - it is the green LED below the instrument panel, to the right of the Gear Indicator.



However if installing one of these (or a voltmeter, whichever type you choose), you really should monitor at the battery itself. as opposed to somewhere at the 'front' end, lighting, ignition etc
(You may have a significant voltage drop so won't get a realistic reading of what the battery/charging system is doing).

In order to read off the battery, you should install with a relay, so that it is not permanently connected with ignition off.

Here is a simple schematic of how to wire that.
You could use an automotive relay, although way overkill - because there is minimal current draw, can rather use an inexpensive & compact miniature relay.
For most accurate results, you should also use the negative feed also directly from battery.
If using a miniature relay, for simplicity of wring you may also connect the relay to this wire (the current drawn by relay will cause minimal volt drop)
However if you use the wire to the battery negative do not also tie it simultaneously to any other negative wire in the harness - that would allow current from other circuits to also flow in that new wire and create voltage drop.
You can use small grade wiring - 18ga is plenty.
Any source that is 'hot' with ignition on is good for the relay coil enable.



Reed Relay - https://www.radioshack.com/products/spst1a-12v-rd-rly?variant=5717505157



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Discussion Starter #6
The FURUKAWA connector plugs for the FH010 & FH012 Shindengen R/R retrofits are NOW AVAILABLE!

Find them here at Corsa Technic or at Eastern Beaver.

http://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=101

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html



Bare connector plug set are available now - EB also be supplies pre-crimped harnesses.

* Note that if you have an FH014 from an 08+ CBR1000, these connector plugs will NOT fit that device.


I can also suggest the following to complement your installation while you're in 'the store' :
.

Metri-Pack Fuse holder

- http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Fuseholders/fuseholders.html
- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Metri-pack-Weather-Pack-AT0-ATC-Sealed-Fuse-Holder-Kit-/360279795792?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item53e2596850



Heres the OEM Triumph type Harness connector plug to inteconnect to the stator cable
.

About half-way down page - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html

Yazaki Connector Set 3PF250K



Note that even if your model bike uses different connector, you will receive the mating half anyway
Simple task to just push out pins from connector and re-insert in new shell - or reterminate completelywith the new pins.

* If you have enough cable of course there is no requirement per se for this intermediate connector - just remove old plug from harness and terminate wires directly onto the Furukawa.
Using this intermediate connector will of course preserve integrity of your main wiring harness for those desiring reversible plan.

Configure your plug n play harnesses like this:



But better -
Convert your stator connector plugs to a sealed item - I like the Metri-Pack 280 myself
(see post #9 for more details)

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/MetriPack280/metripack280.html




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Discussion Starter #7
One more wiring 'upgrade' for your consideration:

I've had multiple questions recently from some members experiencing the cables from the stator getting very hot and even melting the connector plug.*
This is caused by poor (high resistance) connection between the mating pins of the sockets.
One issue is from oxidized terminals - especially if it was already subject to over-heating - and secondly, the mechanical fit between the terminals is poor.
This can happy quite easily on the Yazaki connector which uses a simple spade connector (the female 'opens' up making a loose fit)

* post script edit - Here is a perfect example of failure in an otherwise perfectly working charging system - this image courtesy of our own oldndumb - thankyou OnD!
This is in an install that already features an FH012 R/R.
The last remaining weak link in the chain.



.
Although no problems (yet!) with my own particular installs, I replaced the OEM Yazaki connector at the stator output with the much better Packard- Delphi Metri-Pack 3-conductor connector.
I am a big fan of these connectors - very positive interconnect between the terminals and Waterproof too.

This complete connector set (male & female halves with terminals & seals) as well as the 630 series FuseHolders are available at a great price from this EBay Vendor
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/mjmnational/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=

(disclaimer - I have no affiliation with this vendor, just a satisfied customer)

On the Daytona, this connector replaces the one immediately from the stator - it is normally located at the rear left of the cam cover.
The mating half of this goes directly to the R/R connector socket - eliminated the addition Yazaki connector close to the R/R.
i.e. Per the lower diagram in post #4 but replacing the Yazaki with a Metri-Pack


Here's the result on my S3/Daytona

I pulled the connector back out for the pictures - it tucks up neatly behind the frame.






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Discussion Starter #8
Here is another potential pitfall - whether doing the full mod with the new R/R or simply doing the 'charging mod' with an OEM R/R
(Charging mod is bypassing the OEM Wiring and connecting output of R/R directly to the battery - the + via 30A fuse.

The question has arisen as to "Why is my fuse holder melting - yet the fuse is still intact?" :confused

This is regarding the use of the popular ATM mini-fuse holders for this application.



I have now seen quite a few problems associated with this.
Even though the component is rated for 30A, the physical connection is simply inadequate for this high-current circuit.
The resistance of the connection between fuse and holder is significant enough to create a voltage drop across the connection.
This in turn disspates power in the form of heat and you get resultant melting, exacerbation of the problem & even arcing as a result.

The math goes as follows:
V = I * R - we already know the current is high (30A circuit) and as long as 'R' (resistance of the connection) is low, the volt-drop will also be low.
However if R is significant, then a voltage is dropped across it.
Then we have P (power) = V * I
Substituting for V, P = (I * R) * I = I^2* R

So the power is proportional to the square of the current times the resistance.
So as resistance increases the power rises dramatically and the power correspondingly!

Net result - HEAT! = further increase in resistance which exacerbated the problem - viscious circle!

Here is perfect illustration of the consequence:





.

So my general recommendation is NOT to use one of these mini fuse holders in this high current circuit.
The MetriPack 280 also uses the same mini ATM, however the physical contact of the fuse in the holder is much better that that of the Cooper Bussman style.
(note that I use the term CooperBussman style - I suspect the issue may be with low cost/quality copies of the real McCoy and not necessarily that of the original - however I would avoid this size completely, regardless of manufacturer, to be safe)
I have no empirical data to support long term robustness of the Metri-Pack but just personal opinion on the aspects of the physical design
To the contrary, I have seen quite a few failures as shown above, in the CooperBussman ATMs!

If you only have access to the CopperBussman style, I would suggest to use the physically larger ATO size as a more robust element, with more surface contact of the fuse in the terminals.


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Here is an example of an FH008 R/R that was re-worked for a Bonneville. This will also work really well on many other marque's mid-range bikes
- great match for the 675 Daytona & Street Triple which have a horrendous R/R failure rate! .
The R/R was sourced off a late model Honda CBR; the input & output plugs replaced with Metri-Pack 280 connectors and a Merti-Pack Fuse also utilized in the output-battery harness.
The end-user just needs to replace the OEM output connector on the stator harness and bolt up the new R/R



 

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Series Regulator

The MOSFET R/R are excellent replacement choice on Bike models that suffer from chronic R/R failures.
However, if the model generally has a high incidence of Stator failure, another (better) consideration might be to go a Series Regulator.

In lay terms, a shunt regulator 'shorts' across the stator, while the series regulator goes 'open' to the load.

One such manufacturer is Cycle Electric - however they cater predominantly to the Harley market and their R/R devices are prohibitively large.

However one available compact model from another manufacturer, is the Compufire 55402.



This module sells for $170 (includes heavy gauge wiring to go directly to Battery via Fuse Holder and set of Weatherpack connectors for stator input)

A learned member of the GS forums, posplayr, has tested this unit extensively & provided a lot of data on this module.
Below I have attached just one piece of the data he has amassed that summarizes the effect of a Series Regulator on the stator"

(Image/Data courtesy of posplayr as tested in a Suzuki GS1000)



The stator current is significantly lower because this Regulator does not shunt current across the source, but instead interrupts the signal to only allow through the part of the AC cycle to meet the voltage requirement.
The net result is that the stator runs significantly cooler, commensurately increasing its reliability.

Tests have proven *that the temperature on the Stator cover is significantly lower on a Series Regulated Stator.

Here is a very basic test done by our own Champ87 on his 2007 Triumph Sprint (955cc EFI Triple with Twin Headlights)

Heat

To measure temps I ran with the each regulator un-mounted to eliminate any temp differences caused by heatsink properties of each bracket. In each case I let the bike go through a fan on/fan off cycle to make sure the engine and oil were fully warmed so they would not skew the temperature readings I took from the stator cover. I held the bike at 3,000 rpm for one minute thinking that would force the regulators to regulate which would highlight any differences.

FH012AA
Ambient: 12°C
Regulator temp: 42°C
Stator Cover
Center: 97 °C
Edge: 87 °C

Compu-Fire
Ambient: 17°C
Regulator temp: 40°C
Stator Cover
Center: 85 °C
Edge: 83 °C
Those results surprised me. I thought that engine and oil temperatures would heat the stator cover to such an extent that any difference in the stator winding would be difficult to measure. The results don't represent real world conditions but the purpose was to compare the two different regulators.
Recognize that is the temperature on the COVER! The actual temps of the stator and rotor will be differentiated considerably higher.

And from another forum/thread:

Here's some excellent Thermal Images from a post by oberon on the Aprilia forum with some pics comparing temps with his original Aprilia R/R (SCR Shunt) vs. Compu-Fire (scroll to post #460). *

Here are the pics which are directly sourced from the contributor in the linked thread:

(the first two pics show that the actual Series R/R also runs 'cooler' than the Shunt R/R, installed in the same physical location)

This is a picture of the original aprilia (SCR Shunt) R/R:



and this is a picture of the Compu-Fire 55402 Series Regulator:



....also pictures of the stator cover.

Stator Temp with original R/R:



Stator Temp with Compu-Fire 55402:



Photos courtesy of oberon linked from Aprilia forum

Bottom line - if your model (across the board) has rare instances of Stator failure, the MOSFET units are ideal replacements.
But if your models suffers from high incidence of stator failure, a Series R/R like the Compufire may be another choice.
Note however that a shorted shunt regulator can certainly contribute to failure of the Stator at the same time, particularly if prolonged operation in that state.

Compufire 55402 on my Daytona 955



The Compufire comes with a GM WeatherPack type connector already crimped onto the stator input wires and a mating connector is included with it.
For some bizarre reason however, they include the connector shell for the stator end but NOT the terminals!!! *:wall:

Picture courtesy of Andrew Vanis of GS Forum:



Available in the US at NAPA Autoparts - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wire-Terminal-GM-Weather-Pack-OEM-Series/_/R-NW_725170_0282444263



You actually want the seals also if you want a true sealed connector -
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Wiring-Grommet-Rubber/_/R-NW_725152_0293960868



You can find on EBay out of US or Australia - did not see any listed directly in EBay Europe

You can either swap the OEM Stator Harness Connector to the WeatherPack type or swap the Compufire R/R stator input connector to OEM type (this would be the case for ANY bike)
- Or use any other 3-way connector set of your choosing and swap the stator connector on both R/R & the OEM stator harness as matched set.
I like MetriPacks myself, the WeatherPack is also a good Sealed Connector.

The output wires are already equipped to connect directly to the battery - there is a Fused link for the Positive side. These wires are approx 1m long so will be good to accommodate most locations on the bike for mounting of the module. The wires can of course be trimmed to length as required.
In the picture of the Compufire in the first post you can actually see the stator connector and the FuseHolder Link Wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hre's suggestion for pretty simple plug n play upgrade for most Triumph models:
pretty much all the Triumph range (except for most recent) all use essentially the same SCR R/R with the same configuration of connectors.

Now - since the problems with the Street Triple & Daytona 675, Triumph has released an upgrade kit which comprises of an FH012 Model R/R, Adapter Cable & Bracket

But instead of buying complete kit from Triumph, you could just buy the adapter cables (Triumph calls it Link Lead) - T2500676 - that is only about $10 USD - ridiculously inexpensive for what it is!



Then you can buy your own R/R - used if you can find one - or even a new Yamaha FH012 is going to be much cheaper than the Triumph R/R part itself - but the Triumph cable makes it plug n play
Yamaha R/R part number is 1D7-81960-00-00
This adapter cable will also work with the ZX10/ZX14 FH010 model R/R which you may also include if you are searching for used.

And also works for the new SH775 Series R/R from Shindengen :doublethumb

Note that this cable will connect the unit electrically but you may still have some mechanical modifications to accommodate the new module.

To install an FH010/FH012, the mounting holes are at a different spacing - you can either fabricate a mounting plate, or it is relatively simple process to elongate/slot the holes in the R/R heatsink to match the original bolt spacing of the OEM R/R - about 2 mins work with a rat-tail file.

Be sure however that your OEM connector from stator is in good shape however - this is also a failure point!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Another new Series Regulator available as Replacement Candidate:

I've just become aware of an alternative for R/R replacement which would be ideal for the Twins and possibly also the Triples:

It does NOT appear to be suited for the high rpm 4-cylinder Triumph 600-4's (TT600, Speed4, Daytona 600/650) - at high rpm it loses regulation on those bikes.
(However see further down this thread for details on the SH847 Series R/R which has been proven successful on those models)

It is made by Shindengen and has the exact same Form Factor as the FH012/020 series MOSFET Rectifier/Regulator that has enjoyed great acclaim & success.
A couple of things to note - it has lower current spec than the FH012/020, however still plenty adequate for the Twins (the FHO12/020 is actually way overkiil re current rating requirement anyway for the Twins); it is not MOSFET but SCR.

Wait I hear you cry - "you have been espousing the benefits of MOSFET regarding the reliability of these units, why are you now suggesting a replacement SCR type?"

Here is the SIGNIFICANT difference - this new R/R is SERIES - not SHUNT!!

Why is that of benefit?
The difference between Series & Shunt is that:

Shunt - the Stator always has to apply maximum generated current - when the R/R is in regulation it shorts across the winding to 'shunt' current away from the load directly back to the stator. In an SCR (OEM) Shunt Regulator the SCRs get extremely hot and they ultimately burn out if that heat is not adequately cooled - that is why OEM needs to up front directly in the cooling path.
Because of the way it operates, if you reduce the system load (e.g. turn off the lights) the R/R will actually have to shunt MORE current and will run hotter - but the stator load is the same regardless of whether the current is going to the load, or back through the SCR's.

Series - this is fundamentally different in that in a Series design, instead of diverting (shunting) excess current back to the stator to control the output voltage, the regulation works by interrupting the current path to the load. This means that the Regulator ONLY supplies current demanded by the load itself, and no excess current parallel path through a shunt. So the net result is that this type of Regulator is MUCH kinder on the stator because the stator is always supplying much less current! So the stator does not get so hot and its reliability increases significantly.
The fact that it has SCR's is not quite so problematic as in the Shunt application, because they are flowing less current and for a shorter duration. So they will not get as hot as when used in shunt mode.

This particular unit is a Shindengen SH775 regulator and is used on Polaris models.
It is VERY inexpensive - brand new -
e.g. $73 shipped!!!! ($60 & change plus shipping)
http://polarisparts123.com/partnumber-search/ (enter 4012941)

Polaris REGULATOR-3PH,35A,SERIES,105C for 2011 Polaris R11HR76AG/AR RANGER 6X6 800 EFI 4012941

(or wherever else you can source Polaris parts)








Read more about it in these threads off the Suzuki GS Forum

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=200004

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=209843

Lots of testing information on there:
Here is some data from one of the GS guys who measured the stator current on his bike with Shunt vs Series R/R

(Quoted data reproduced from GS Forum - from 2nd link above)
Here are some test results comparing my old shunt SH-232 R/R to the series SH-775.

Disclaimer- I have no idea how accurate my ac current clamp meter is at frequencies above 60 Hz; I know it's accurate on 3 phase 60 Hz stuff. I suspect it might be pretty good at 120 Hz (1200 rpm), but at 400 Hz, who knows.
On the good old SH-232;
at 1200 rpm, stator line current = 6.5 amp ; R/R output 12.8 volts DC
at 4000 rpm, stator line current = 11 amp; R/R output 14.2 volts DC

On the SH-775
at 1200 rpm, stator line current = 6.7 amp; R/R output 13.0 volts DC
at 4000 rpm, stator line current = 6.8 amp; R/R output 14.2 volts DC

With the SH-775, turning off headlight, resulted in an immediate drop of stator line current to 3.5 amp at 1200 rpm.
Interpreting those results, shows that the stator design is producing just barely about enough current at idle to satisfy the load - that is why the current is the same with either type of R/R - in the series case is running pretty much wide open and in the shunt case is shunting very little. i.e. all of the generated current is going to the load. The output voltage is not quite at peak, so both R/R have output not quite satisfied by the stator.
As the rpm increase however, now both R/R types have to start working:
- in the case of the Shunt unit, the excess current is diverted back through the Shunt and the current goes up (note that the system load would not have changed however the stator current goes up dramatically!!)
- with the Series R/R, the stator current is virtually unchanged because instead of shunting back excess current, it operates differently by only allowing through enough to satisfy the load. It is drawing virtually exact same current from stator at 4K as it is at idle.
The final piece of data shows what happens when you turn off the lights (i.e. reduce the load) - the stator current goes down with the Series R/R. Not shown, but in the case of the Shunt R/R, this would make no difference, it would remain the same.

The basic principle of operation is that it is a 3 phase SCR Bridge Rectifier. Instead of continuously conducting diodes (when in the appropriate forward bias part of the cycle) the SCR's can be controlled to turn on only for a specific part of the cycle - this they do not conduct continuously, only for the duration of the firing angle of the SCRS.
Here is an excellent simulation I found on You Tube


for the techno-geeks (and you know who you are!!! :D ) you can read more here - http://web.ing.puc.cl/~power/paperspdf/dixon/21.pdf - skip to section 12.2.4 (page 12-10)

You will need the Furukawa connectors, same as those utilized on the FH series of Regulators

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html



The most cost-effective method of connection for the fours is to obtain the OEM Triumph link lead (designed for the 675 OEM retrofit kits) - part number T2500676 which is only ~ $10.



If you want to plug n play into the Twins, this is the connector you need (pic snagged off EBay) if you want to connect into the OEM connector at the front:



If tossing the old R/R from the Twins, the easiest thing is to re-use the connector from that (you can even cut the wires off right at the R/R heat-sink and wire those directly into the new Furukawa connectors.)

If you want to buy new connector, several sources are listed below:

UK - http://kojaycat.co.uk/epages/950000457.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/950000457/Products/6W-250-CNA

USA - http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=361&category_id=59

International - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html ($20 min order with Eastern Beaver) - this is going to best source to get the Furukawa connectors plus this in one shipment.

Or - go with the OEM Triumph Link Lead shown above, then cut off the two input & output connectors and use one of the single 6-way connectors referenced above to plug n play directly to the OEM connector in the Headlight Shell.


So you can either connect to OEM connectors (installing or making up adapter cable) or via the first stator connector, in which case connect outputs direct to battery. I would suggest however that this probably needs more cooling than the MOSFET shunt unit; although reports from the GS forum suggests it does not run particularly hot. But I would suggest to install it where it has adequate airflow across it so it remains cool. The temperature of the unit will be proportional to the load connected to it (opposite to the SCR Shunt where less system load actually makes it run less hot!)

Bottom line - this regulator is an excellent replacement choice for the Twins and Fours, being more than adequate for the Current Load requirement and will give improved reliability not only for the R/R itself but also beneficial to the stator longevity. And it is excellent value too!

Note: I have not personally tested this specific Regulator and refer its based on general specification & electrical design advantages and the information supplied by the excellent pioneers on the GS forum as noted in the links above. Acknowledgement to psoplayr of that forum for point me to it.
I myself am about to embark on testing a Compufire Series Regulator (of which posplayr has been a long time advocate) on my Triple.
Note that the Compufire - one of the few successful Series Regulator on the market currently is ~ $170 vs the $70 of this new Shindengen!
At this point I would not yet recommend the SH775 for the Triples, with higher current load - if you want to go Series I would suggest the Compufire for that at this time.
However it should equally be noted that the spec of this SH775 is more than adequate, rated at 35A (similar to OEM SCR Shunt R/R) - it will require some cooling from the airstream, at time of writing no real test data on how hot it might run with the Triple-type loads (15-20A)

Note also however that Shindengen is working on two more Series modules with 50A rating, hopefully to be released before long)

 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
There is now another Series R/R offering on the market:

In the specs for the new 2014 VStrom 1000

Performance-Enhancing Electrics
A newly designed, open-type rectifier disconnects the magneto when it is not generating electricity. Plus, the magneto is more efficient than that of the previous V-Strom 1000.
These two advances reduce mechanical losses, resulting in stronger torque at low and mid-range engine speeds ....

I believe this could be one of the two 50A Series Regulators that Shindengen listed as "in development"?
(see the table in the previous post above)
Just visually comparing with the SH775 (which shares same format heatsink as the FH012/20) & using the connectors as a scale reference it appears it might then SHxx1?




The Shindengen designation numbers on it are SH847AA - OEM Suzuki Part Number 32800-31J00

http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=4852623&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=2014&fveh=206819



This is now available from several US sources (including is listed on BikeBandit!).
Cheapest I have found is at SHSPowerSports at $142 (please check to see if is actually available)

Dimensionally it is slightly bigger than an FH012/20

Dimensions of the SH847
Height - 36mm (1-7/16")
Width - 100mm (between mounting holes) (3-15/16")
Heatsink Body Width - 108mm (4-1/4") (not including the mounting hole bosses - ~ 120mm/4-3/4" between the extremes of the bosses )
Heatsink Body Length - 120mm (4-3/4") (not including the connectors)

I mounted mine off the front side of the main-frame rear cross brace, under the fuel tank facing into the area above the transmission.
I made a two-piece bracket and fixed the R/R to that with counter-sunk screws to allow it to lay fairly flush against the frame rail.
Originally I just drilled and tapped the frame, but later installed Rivet-Nuts just as a more secure fastening.
The module should get some decent cooling in that location (it definitely runs hotter than the MOSFET types in the same type of housing - that is to be expected)
Idling in my garage, with the colling fan on, it was surely hot to the touch (but not so hot I could not withstand more than a momentary touch)
I need to get some real temperature numbers at the conclusion of a run but I don't expect to be a problem.
The good thing about series (unlike shunt) is it should be dissipating the same amount of power, based on whatever the load is demanding, regardless of engine speed.
One thing to recognize is that although it looks similar to the FHO** series of MOSFET units, it is actually a little bigger - the footprint is larger, hole spacing wider and the heatsink is taller.
Electrically has the same connectors however.

Electrically, I started with a Triumph OEM Link Lead (see posts above) but replaced the Stator connector set with a MetriPack set; the output cables were taken back to the two single wires prior to the split, then the Positive fused via a MetriPack 630 and connected to the Solenoid input terminal, with the negative connected to the engine ground stud. Both of these nodes already have my Starter Power Cable Upgrade and are essentially identical electrically to the battery terminals.

When initially started the voltage was about 13.8V; however the battery was slightly discharged; as I left it to run, the voltage was gradually coming up and eventually at 14.4V. It remained at 14.4V even with the headlights on and the fan kicked in - at idle.
With the fan running (and headlights on) this represents the max load pretty much - I would estimate this at probably 20A - I felt the heatsink and it was definitely hot to touch - uncomfortable to sustain touch (but could/did); nothing like temp of an OEM SCR R/R which WILL burn you. This of course with bike static - I would expect it will have adequate cooling in the location I selected when it is moving. But given the temperature I felt, I would recommend against installing this in enclosed areas. (I will follow up with actual data later).

Here's my installation.





 

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