Yeah, I've done it a few times. You know. New pipes, new jets,remove snorkel, new jets, air box, new jets. I should have done it all at once but at first I didn't think I was going to get that involved. It's a sickness. It's a real pain in the a** the first time. The factory carb screws are cheap and easy to strip. I used a VERY small ratchet with a phillips bit and some patience. I bought the carb screw kit from new thruxton and it made the job alot easier. Now I use a allen wrench that pivots which makes the angles easy to get to. Removing the carbs is not difficult and will save you a headache.
Yes, good advise on the allen screws, after that it is an easy job. The jet screws into holder that is either 7 or 8 mm. Use a wrench to hold it so that the jet can be unscrewed without loosening or removing the holder. There is a directional sleeve above the holder that can easily fall out and cause great consternation if you don't notice or reinstall it incorrectly. T1
To rejet only you do not need to remove the tank or carbs. Use a ratchect/#2 phillips head and you can easily remove the carb bowls and change the jets from the bottom...stock jet are 110, pipe change and airbox snorkel pulled off should have 125 main jet no other change needed DO REMOVE THE SNORKEL it is easily reversable and FREE...(The best horspower is free anyone can buy HP)
Changing the jets I found it easier to access the LEFT CARB front screw from the RIGHT side of my bike with the ratchet since there is more room. With the rachet way I found it so easy that I didn't bother using allen head replacement bolts when done that alot of the guys say you have to have. Just DO NOT torque the snot out of the since they are typical tiny Japenese carb screws but they work fine...you may like allen heads so replace em if you like...
IF you are removing the AI (air injection tubes) next to your sparkplugs, then yes you will need to remove the tank to get to all the AI hoses. I would suggest if you decide to remove the AI get the plug kits they sell at Newbonneville or any of the other shops...they have instructions and it is very easy. I like the stainless AI bolts but they also have black or aluminum to suit your taste.
To take off the tank...the Gas tank has a couple of rear bolts that you will see when you remove the seat and once you remove those tank bolts the tank just lifts off and away towards the rear...make sure you dissconnect the fuel lines and have the gas petcock off...
if you forget to turn off the gas the gas running down your leg and the smell should remind you...
I forgot to mention to remove just the float bowls use a Mini ratchet with I believe a 6mm socet holding a short #2 phillips head in the socket to allow you to push up into the phillips screws as you loosen them...this really is easy once you do it... a regular screwdriver is horrible to use on carbs and like I said some of the LEFT carb bowl screws are easy to access from the RIGHT side...please do go to the trouble of rejetting because the difference is worth the hassel not to mention your engine will last longer and again I recommend a 125 main with no other change but with these jets you will need the snorkel off.
You can get a 90 degree ratcheting screwdiver from sears that has a holder for apex bits that works great also. It will also work wonders other places as well and is worth the investment (about 7 dollars last I checked). If you ever want to get the pilot jets (a bit more of a pain) I used a cheap small Harbour Freight screwdriver that was very bendable(due to it's cheapness) and put a 90 bend in it. It is long and thin and goes right into the pilot recess.
Doesn't bother me. Maybe getting old, but I could not hear the Stains well unless the revs were on up there. I need to hear what my bike is doing. However the Preds are Much louder. But I can hear it . If you decide to go with Stains give me a holler.
PS Newthruxton has a sound clip for the Stains. It seems to be better than the sound clip on British Customs for the Preds.
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