If you are doing the whole thing ... Front/rear and chain
Start with the front sprocket. Its best to use the old chain to help break the nut loose on the front countershaft. These things are usually very tight, so you'll need a large breaker bar and a 36mm socket, a deep socket is best so your breaker bar clears the frame. You also need something like a wedge with a sharp point like a wood chisle to get underneith the folds of the safety tab washer and bend it back so the nut will turn.
Here is how I do it...
Stand on the right side of the bike, put one foot down on the rear break, reach over top of the seat and pull up on the breaker bar to loosen it. You can also put something in between the wheel spoke and the top of the swingarm like a hammer handle, piece of pipe, etc.. if you are having trouble holding the wheel with just the brake, but be carefull not to put it on top of the brake line. Like I said, these things can be super tight.
Also, depending on the chain you get and the masterlink you choose you might need a chain rivet/press tool. Whether you get a clip style link or a rivet style link, Id recommend getting a link press to press the plate on properly. Rivet tools can be pricey for a good one so the clip link is the "budget" option. Right now I'm running a clip style link and its holding up fine. (RK X-Ring Chain)
The rear sprocket is fairly self explanitory. Once the wheel is off the cush drive will basically pull apart and you can inspect the bearings and grease and the condition of the rubber blocks.
You will need a breaker bar. You can use a c-clip link but I would safety wired it and then use red gasket (comes in a tube) material to cover it. I did this with my track bike and never had an issue. Just check it very once in while.
Also, EK chain now has a master link that uses a 8mm wrench to press the links together. Therefore no tools are needed. I have used this on my TT600 and no issues as of yet.
I really, really like air impact wrenches for front sprockets. It's got around 80 ft lbs of torque on it. You can get it apart with a bar and socket, but air is the lazy way out. It is a 36mm nut. Be sure to replace and bend up the washer when you put the front back on.
On my Bonneville, the drive sprocket is to be torqued to 135Nm, did you have a chain failure or a nut loosen on the drive sprocket? The bell lock nut is to keep that from getting loose. Glad you are OK - chain failure can be very ugly.
The chainlock failed, i attached it wrongly, first time changing it.
Gonne get som help from a friend today so ill be set correctly this time.
Just happy it didnt happen at a higher speed and that the thing dint breake anything!
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