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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there I've just discovered a rather disconcerting fact on my GT 2011. Chain and sprockets were changed by me about 15000kls ago, after market jobbies , probably not the most expensive you can buy but midrange. Chain now has a massive tight spot when on the centre stand ie from about 35mm to tight twice every revolution of the chain. Tight spot happens when the joiner link is at about 2 o'clock on the rear sprocket and about 7:30 on the front sprocket IE diametrically opposed places on the rotation cycle. No seized links and the teeth all look ok to me certainly, nowhere near what the replaced ones were like! Front and back sprockets are tight and as far as I can see have no real way to be out of alignment or out of round. The chain doesn't appear to ride up on any of the teeth it just gets real tight when the link gets to those two places. Any ideas would be appreciated or have I just got sh-te gear? Must be something to do with the link I guess just can't figure out what.:unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure: Bob
PS I suppose I should check it on the side stand but I wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference to the tight spot, hmm maybe I'm wrong.
 

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I don't know but I would try scrubbing that entire link with hot 90W gear oil on a tooth brush and then rotate the wheel a few times and see if it makes an improvement. If nothing else you get to make a mess which is always entertaining.
 

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Sounds like you may have some corrosion down in between the rollers and the pins in the tight spots. If it's an 'O' ring or 'X' ring chain it's hard to fix because you can't easily get lube past the sealing rings. You may be able to take the chain off and soak it in some noxious chemical to free it up. At the mileage you quote replacing the chain might be the best remedy especially if your time is worth anything.
 

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I was able to get the chain on my Tiger back to normal (more or less) with a good scrubbing with the gear oil. Made a gigantic mess, though.
 

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Same thing happened to me with much lower miles. If chain gets wet and dries wet and dries with no lube she wil start to tighten. New chain sounds in order. RK make a nice x ring for $$. I have it and like it.
 

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No seized links and the teeth all look ok to me certainly, nowhere near what the replaced ones were like!
If you have no sized link, it probably means your rear sprocket is off center. This is pretty usual after changing the chain. The fact you go from 35mm slack to zero tends to confirm that. Don't you observe you get one tight spot per rear sprocket rotation?
You should try to remove the rear sprocket nuts and roll some paper around each bolt to eliminate the freeplay. If that doesn't make it just try to correct the off center by using measurement shims between the rear sprocket and the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you have no sized link, it probably means your rear sprocket is off center. This is pretty usual after changing the chain. The fact you go from 35mm slack to zero tends to confirm that. Don't you observe you get one tight spot per rear sprocket rotation?
You should try to remove the rear sprocket nuts and roll some paper around each bolt to eliminate the freeplay. If that doesn't make it just try to correct the off center by using measurement shims between the rear sprocket and the hub.
I understand that theory but the tight spot in relation to the sprockets isn't one for one it's twice every full chain rotation with the tight spots appearing when the link pin passes over the same position rotationally in the cycle. The position on the sprocket moves sequentially about ten teeth every time ( rear sprocket) lines up with the link pin at about 11:30. I reversed the rear sprocket yesterday and it made no difference but under close inspection the chain does ride up on the sprocket till it's tight , then relocates itself and becomes loose again. New chain I think is in order but disappointing to only last this long.
 

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I've been having good luck with the DID X-ring chain.
Get new sprockets while you're at it as all that junk wears in together.
 

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I understand that theory but the tight spot in relation to the sprockets isn't one for one it's twice every full chain rotation with the tight spots appearing when the link pin passes over the same position rotationally in the cycle. The position on the sprocket moves sequentially about ten teeth every time ( rear sprocket) lines up with the link pin at about 11:30. I reversed the rear sprocket yesterday and it made no difference but under close inspection the chain does ride up on the sprocket till it's tight , then relocates itself and becomes loose again. New chain I think is in order but disappointing to only last this long.
OK I get it.
Did you measure the chain by say groups of 10 links to check whether is varies around it?
There is another possible explanation: the links width. Expecially the master link that could have been too much pressed when closed. I admin it should produce the tighter spot when on 3:00 on the rear sprocket but worth having a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've been thinking about this and it must be the joiner link either un worn or too tight as I think whats happening is that everything's going well then the joiner link gets to the sprocket and the following chain is slightly out and rides up. Once the joiner gets to about 10:30-11:00 oclock the following section of the chain slips into place and all's well again till the next round. I'll measure the links tomorrow and see what I find. Conversely I suppose if the joiner is worn more than the rest it'll do the same thing.:unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well that was interesting, checked everything with verniers all rollers , gaps etc all the same, checked chain length as in the manual all good. Finally found something that was iffy , the joiner link had the leading end pin tighter than the rest ( not much but noticeable ) so that's ok says me I have a spare I'll change it. Split the rivet didn't I !!!!:ROFLMAO: Ahhhh Look up the net for a replacement link, They don't make that chain anymore and no one seems to have a JTC530Z3 RL Link on the planet . Ring the local bike shop, order a new chain & sprockets, no riding this week end.🥺
 

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They don't make that chain anymore and no one seems to have a JTC530Z3 RL Link on the planet .
Not sure where you got that info from, but the Z3 is their "current" chain which replaced the Z1R. Changing your search parameters seemed to net results (JTC530Z3RL).
fredsprint got it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
When I put it together originally I used feeler gauges to get the gap between inside and outside plates on the link the same as the rest of the chain. ( or I thought I did) on re measuring the gaps I got 1.25mm on three sides which is the same as the chain and 0.95mm on the inside leading edge. Didn't think it would be that critical as there is a raised section on the tube of the internal link that the o ring sits on that I would have thought would give enough clearance. Anyway I checked it today with the new joining link that split and the tight spot is still there but not as large, starting to wonder if I've just been looking for something that's quite normal IE how much slack is normal ? Re the availability of the link , I don't know enough about chains and their numbering to tell what will fit , I know RL is rivet link but what NNRL is I have no idea, the australian supplier said they don't make them any more and didn't give a replacement option and all the web sites I looked at were old ads and didn't have any either when I emailed them but I'll be a little narked off if that is not true , anyway too late for me now I've ordered a new chain and if that doesn't fix things I'll get new sprockets as well.Thanks for humouring me anyway! Bob🏍
 

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The most common cause of chain tight spots is that your sprockets are not as concentric to the wheel or gearbox output shaft as they should be, IE running "out of true".
This can be due to wear, poor quality sprockets or chain, or poor fitting.
If you find this problem immediately after fitting a new set of sprockets then they're a loose fit on the shaft or wheel and are not concentric.
This will result in a tight spot every half turn of the wheel for the rear sprocket, or roughly every quarter turn of the wheel for the gearbox sprocket. If you are getting a random tight spot which is not regular or consistant then it is a combination of both sprockets out of concentricity. This is more likely to be the case.
To check use a DTI (clock guage) to check the concentricity of each sprocket and adjust out the offending sprocket using shim steel if you are that worried about it.
It wont affect the performance of the machine but severe cases will make chain adjustment difficult to keep within acceptable tolerances and the rear sprocket is the most likely to be the one causing the problem.
This is, however, the easiest to remedy by slackening the retaining nuts and adjust the position untill its running as true as possible then re-tightening the nuts.
Chances are you may never get either sprocket to run perfectly true but you should get them close enough to get the chain adjustment to stay where you want it.
Chain wear itself is unlikely to cause loose and tight spots on its own as the wear on the chain links is likely to be the most even of the chain/sprocket combination but this is not to be taken as gospel as loose and tight spots are a good indication of the combination of both sprocket and chain wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for all of that but as I said mine is totally consistent with the link pin position irrespective of the sprocket position, interestingly the position shifted a few teeth earlier with the new link pin. I know whats happening but not why ie the trailing links slowly get out of alignment and ride up on the teeth thus tightening the non drive side of the chain then at the same spot every time they slide into position and the slack returns and runs normally till it does the same thing on the drive sprocket. This is on the centre stand and not under drive load which might be totally different. I'll let you know what happens with a new chain this week. Cheers Bob
 

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You homed in on the pressed on master link right off the bat, I believe.
For installation I measure the mushroomed part with a pair of calipers and so far, so good.

I do have new chain/sprockets and DID chain tool to use on the Tiger but I've been nursing the DID X-ring chain along. I believe it has 38,000 miles on it and is getting near the end of its service life so I'll be playing in the grease pretty soon.
 
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