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Discussion Starter #1
Hi and Happy New Year to all. Can anyone give me a definitive chain tension for my 04 955 please? Ideally I want to measure with the bike on its main stand and measured of course at midpoint which is roughly where the swingarm weld occurs in my estimation, does the slack include both upward and downward movement or just pushing upwards? So far I've relied on guesswork but it occurs to me that someone out there with a more organised mind than my own will have hit the optimum through trial and error.
 

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Push chain upwards towards frame from resting point for measurement .35-40 mm make sure adjusters are free if spoke wheels
 

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Hi mate :) ,

I think you'll hear a few different versions of what works best, but here's mine..........

After you've rotated the rear wheel several times to find the tightest point of the chain, you need about 45mm of free play with the bike on the centre stand,. Once you've done that and you think the tension is ok, take the bike off the centre stand, get someone heavy enough to sit on it with their full weight on the bike while you recheck the chain tension when the chain is at its tightest point. There's a very good chance that the freeplay you thought you had has disappeared completely and you have to go through the process again until you find what works for you. I've found out over 17 years of tiger ownership these bikes work better with a slightly slack chain due to the long play soggy rear suspension on Big Trailies.

Good luck sorting it out, and keep us posted as to what worked for you ;)
 

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Just remember that chain tension is just like valve clearances. Too loose is OK: too tight is not. As long as you're close, err on the slack side.
 

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Just remember that chain tension is just like valve clearances. Too loose is OK: too tight is not. As long as you're close, err on the slack side.
I'll second that. And......when you've got the chain tension and clutch lever adjusted in the sweet spot, gear changes aren't as "notchy" ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all that's much appreciated and I'll try your method, TG, and post the results when I get back from hols in a couple of weeks. I do tend to run the chain slack to save on the bearings but it occurred to me the other day that it might be just that bit too slack. I do notice as well that the cooler the engine the better the gear change which I assume is par for the course for models up to 2005 at least. I also notice that the bike doesn't misfire on the overrun in these cooler temperatures but that's a whole other topic.
 
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