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Discussion Starter #261
One forward 3 back

Dont take anything for granted.
On trying to shove the mainshaft into the high gear, it wouldn't go.
Strip down, high gear out.
It needs reaming...should have been OK according to what i've read.
Brought the high gear home to check the internal diameter, and to estimate how much to remove.
Blast and damn it!
 

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Discussion Starter #262 (Edited)
Everything back together.
Gearbox innards fitted.
Next the inner case, then clutch.
Then I must get on with fitting the pistons.

 

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Discussion Starter #265
I've modified the pictures, so that they are visible.
Gone back to page 11, I'll do the rest when I've got an hour to spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #266
Had to remove the gear cluster, because gears not indexed, must have slipped out of neutral when fitting.
Seems OK now.
Inner G/B now fitted.

 

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Discussion Starter #267
Pistons and rings fitted after checking the gaps in the barrels.
Think I did this ages ago but checked anyway.
Bores lightly oiled, just to keep rust away.
Barrels to fit next.
Just noticed the crud in the pushrod gallery, this will go.



 

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Discussion Starter #268
Barrels on.
Now, where did I leave the base nuts.
The tappet circlips were a pain, down to the local hardware shop and bought two plastic tubes, one to fit the circlips onto the other to ram them home. Fiddly job.
Fresh dollop of cam-lube on camshaft and followers.



 

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Discussion Starter #270
Fitted the oil filter and started on the primary.
Inevitably, the rollers fell out over the floor, didn't swear much :wink2:

 

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Discussion Starter #272
Yes, agreed, but thats where the old oil cooler was.
I think it ought to go inside and to the left side, with the pipes facing to the right.
I can put a blank grommet in the redundant hole.
 

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Caulky,
Do you really need the oil cooler? I hear that owners over there in Britain are always fighting condensation in the oil because it doesn't get hot enough!
 

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Discussion Starter #274
Caulky,
Do you really need the oil cooler? I hear that owners over there in Britain are always fighting condensation in the oil because it doesn't get hot enough!
I'm just fitting an oil filter instead of the cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #275
Clutch and alternator fitted.
New 3-phase stator and new rotor.
What a job!
When vendors say this stator will work on classic Triumphs, BSA's and Nortons, electrically yes, physically no.
Would not go on fully.
Triumphs mount the stator on special studs, but BSA' do not, its mounted on normal studs with a cut-away against under the fixing points.
Initially I thought it might be bent studs, but after removing them, it occured to me that it was bottoming out against the encapsulation.
I had to fashion the three mounting points by removing some of the encapsulation.
Then there was the stator wires, book says shove them through the tube before mounting the clutch/primary sprocket, because its easier.
Thread the stator through the primary chain...thats when the clutch rollers fell out.
I'd recommend threading the wires through after the primary stuff is fitted, because then its possible to get the correct length of wires in the primary case.

 

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Discussion Starter #276
Head on and torqued up.
Not without difficulties, the rear central bolts must be entered in their holes before fitting the head.
These bolts are 4 1/8" long and will not go in afterwards because of the frame.

 

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Discussion Starter #278
I've had trouble with the kickstart return spring being too weak.
Attempts to wind it up 180 degrees more was a failure, far too much tension.
I found another spring which does the job, hopefully.
Another problem is the clutch mechanism in the outer cover clicking.
All adjusters set for maximum slack, doesn't cure it, too much leverage.
May need a longer cable inner.
 

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Discussion Starter #280
Oops, the K/S stop dowel was in my box of bits to fit.:embarrassed
Now all is OK! Hopefully.
 
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