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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I decided this weekend I’d take out the air box and put on my Norman Hyde peashooters. The whole install went smoothly until I took off the carbs to rejet. The left float bowl came off easy and I swapped out the pilot and main jet and I started on the right bowl. 3 of the 4 screws came off easy. The last screw though wasn’t budging. I put the other screws back in and tightened them down and tried to work on that 4th one. It still wouldn’t budge and it began to strip a little. I bought some penetrating oil and let it soak in for about an hour and the damn thing still won’t move! I’m so frustrated because this would literally be the last thing I’d need to do to get everything finished and put it all back together… Anyone have any suggestions on how to get this damn screw out?!

Right now I’m starting with 140 mains, 42 pilots and a shim on each needle.





Also, I haven’t gotten to it yet since I’m not finished rejetting, but I can’t see where the carb brace attaches to. I’m using the British customs ARK.

Lastly, the breather hose that attaches to the middle of the carb used to attach to the air injection system; do I take the hose off completely and plug the hole at the carb, or leave the hose on and plug the end of the hose?
 

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Try a hacksaw

Seriously, if you can get to the screw with a hacksaw and cut a slot across the head of the screw for a straight screwdriver that might do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
jboyette, I'm going to have to give that a go I think. hopefully this is a standard screw so I can pick up a new one at the hardware store.

Sweatmachine, I tried using a clampwrench. There's just nothing to grab onto.
 

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Agreed with the slot thing. If you have a Dremel, I like cutting a slot in it (with a cutting wheel) and using a fairly large screwdriver. This method has yet to fail for me :cool:

Good luck!
 

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Carb Brace: No help, I used the NARK.

"Breather Hose": Not sure of your terminology here! There was a hose about the size of one's finger that went from the AI module to the airbox. If you still have the AI functioning, this hose needs a filter on it (this is the intake air that is injected into the head). There was a small vacuum hose connected to a vacuum nipple on either the manifold or one carb--this hose also ran to the AI module. Again, if you are still running the AI system, you need this hose connected. My advice would be to remove the AI completely and plug the holes near the spark plugs using AI removal kit plugs or purchase some at a hardware store. The hose that most refer to as the breather hose went from the engine case to the airbox and this hose needs to remain connected to the engine case and have a filter installed on the the other end (a filter for this hose should have been supplied with your Airbox removal kit. This is a good time to add hose to this hose and locate the filter in a better location, IMHO.

I assume you are replacing the carb bowl screws with allen head screws. If you purchased these as a kit from one of our site vendors, I would recommend NOT using the lock washers on the two screws that hold the idle adjust bracket to the left carb bowl. The lock washers plus the bracket thickness will make these two screws too short and they are very easy to strip.

I would recommend NOT shimming the needles until you get the main jets sized. Then, if you have a flat spot in the mid range, add a shim. Too many changes at once makes it hard to sort out the jetting, IMHO. Also, I highly recommend a dyno run after you have it sorted as best you can with the butt dyno.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Redbird, I'm not referring to the crank case breather hose, I know that gets the filter. Am I an idiot and this is just the hose that connects back to my gas tank on the right side...

I just figured out where the carb brace connects too, I kept looking on the new battery holder thinking it'd connect to it for some reason, instead of realizing it should be above the carbs and hang down.

I haven't replaced the carb bowl screws, though at this point It looks like a good idea so I don't run into this problem in the future. I'll take one of the screws to the hardware store tomorrow and see if I can find replacements.

While I have the carbs all apart, should I start with a 140 main or go straight to 145? I will put the bike on the dyno, but I was advised from my dealer to wait till it's at least 50-60 degrees out to get the best results.
 

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Those phillips carb screws are always a problem and once removed need to be replaced with allen heads.

A sure fix is to purchase an impact driver (about $14).

They come with several screw bits and there is one that is a perfect fit to those jap phillips heads.

If your unfamiliar.....the inpact driver bit is placed on the screw and you hit it with a hammer which puts downwards force and twisting force on the screw at the same time.
 

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I just did this on thanksgiving eve and had the same thing happen to me. One screw stripped.

5 minutes later it came right out.

Just take a drill and carefully drill right in the middle of it--it should crack it and it will either fall right out or come loose, as in my case.

Assuming you have the replacement cap-end bolts, too.

Good luck.
 

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A small vice grip will defeat that screw. It has to lock on hard & grip into the screw head. The vice grip will basically destroy the head, but so what. The trick is to break it loose & then it will go out easily enough.

I have an extra set of M4-.07 x 8mm long stainless allen head screws for the slide top caps if you need them. I don't recall the length of the bowl screws offhand, however they are also M4-.07 thread pitch.

Tip - Lowe's on 8th Ave. didn't have stainless allen head screws in that size last time I looked, but Fastenal Co. on Weaversville Road did.

Yes, I am in the LV. Glad to help you if I can.
 

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Hardware store

I was able to find stainless allen heads at my local hardware store. I also used real lock washers, stainless, since the screws come in various lengths. +1 on not stripping them.
 

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A very small Channel Lock did the trick for me. I wonder why it's always just one of the four that has to be stuborn? Thumbs down to soft metal philips head screws.
 

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I assume you are replacing the carb bowl screws with allen head screws. If you purchased these as a kit from one of our site vendors, I would recommend NOT using the lock washers on the two screws that hold the idle adjust bracket to the left carb bowl. The lock washers plus the bracket thickness will make these two screws too short and they are very easy to strip.
Buy 16mm long screws for these two. The length is perfect with the lock washer.
 

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IMO lockwashers aren't necessary as the float bodies are pretty soft. I've never had a screw back out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bought 8 stainless M4 .07 thread allen bolts today on my way to work this morning and I'm going to replace all of the screws when I get home.

I also picked up a smaller vice grip and I'll try and grab and twist the **** out of that little bugger thats still stuck in there. If that doesn't work I'll give the hacksaw a straight channel for a flat head screw driver a go. If that doesn't work I guess I'll have no choice but to drill it out :mad:

Anyhow, I'll take some pics when it's all said and done and report back. Thanks for all the great suggestions, everyone on this forum is beyond helpful :cool:
 

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I'm making a wager, and my money is on the Vice Grip!

Bob
 

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Vicegrip

Aye! Vicegrip is the ticket. Get the jaws on that little so and so good and tight - really bite into it. You only have to crack it loose with the vicegrip, then you'll be able to turn it out.
 

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Be careful with the vice grip so you don't inadvertently bite into the carb bowl...I've had good luck using a "screwdriver" type orientation on the screw head, if ya get my drift...
 
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