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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had a bit of time on my hands yesterday so I went to the surplus store intent on build a Carb sync tool.

So I picked up two vacuum gauges, some 5-16ths line and got to work.

I got it all done then hooked it up to see what kind of needle bounce I was going to get which was a ton. So i set to build two orifice tubes to insert under the guages. I took some aluminum dowling and drilled a 1-16th hole down the center then put it into the rubber hose before the gauges. Voila no bounce. Rev the engine up and the needles respond correctly.

So now I sit my little tool on the seat then run one hose to each carb and sync as required.

 

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Nice job! Be interesting to know how much you saved over buying ready made, but that's not the point is it?
 

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Good job - looks so very technical. I was going to make a fluid type - but surrendered to my laziness and bought one, LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This cost me 23 bucks overall so that is far less then the manometers that are commercially available. I was going to buy one but thought, that is no fun. There has to be a way to make one that has no risk of sucking water into the jugs.
 

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I bought a MotionPro mercury meter. Hah, says if you suck mercury into the cylinders - don't breathe in the exhaust. Yeah, guess that's not a good idea, LOL! But the thing is long enough that you can do some revs to get the meter settled down and not come near the "sucked into engine" range.
 

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The gauges are more versatile as well. You can use them to set your idle mixture, if you know what you are doing. You can't do that with a manometer.
 

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Nice. I've been planning to make one for a 4 cylinder.

FWIW, I just use old jets for the airline restrictors to kill the bouce with gauges and mamometers.
 

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I have one i bought one thing you need to check .after you get both gauges the same swap hoses and see if they still read the same the gauges I have dont.allso you want the gauses to quiver alittle so you can see small changes
 

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Mike...I'd just hook them together with a "T" and apply a constant vacuum to them. If they read the same....then they are calibrated properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When I did my bike I swapped them one side to the other. The T idea is a good one as well. I think I will make one up for easy calibration.

The old JETS is a brilliant idea. I am going to try that. My needles bounce a touch and I think that is ok. That is how I know they are actually working. :)

I am going to make a second one because I in my garage I have a Single (cbr125R) a twin (the bonnie) and Triple (2010 Tiger on the way) and a 4Cyl (TT600).
 

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The gauges are more versatile as well. You can use them to set your idle mixture, if you know what you are doing. You can't do that with a manometer.
I bet there arent many mechanics left that know how to set idle mix with a vac gauge .these bike will idle better and get better mpg set that way but if you got good pipes they will let you know when you back off the throttle.I set mine with the gauge then richen them just a tad to cut down on the poping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mike,
That is where my idea came from. I used to set my Rochester Q-Jets on my Chevy 350's using a vacuum gauge. It is definitely becoming a lost art.
 

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One word - Twinmax. Not cheep but works very nicely, nothing to suck into anything. Had mine for many years since using it on 1997 BMW RT. Only problem is remembering to turn it off to save the 9V battery.
 

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+2 on the TwinMax. No mercury, easy to use.
 

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Hi everybody!

I've been working on my thottle sync. with a homemade nanometer filld with oil.
The bike's a Triumph TT600.

Now to the problem , when I turn the bike on with the nanometer plugged in, the oil starts to raise in cylinder one (left one).
Is it because cylinder 2, 3 and 4 is really outbalanced compared to the 1st?

Do I just need to adjust the idle screw for cylinder 2, 3 and 4 and the problems solved? or have I conncted the nanometer wrong?

Anyone got a guide with some pics maybe?

Sorry about my english, I'm from sweden :D

Thanx :)
 
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