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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK does the air slide move up and down the the throttle slide. so if you open the throttle all the way and look in the carb(from the air filter side) would you still be able to see the air slide. i hope this makes sense. i have a 930 amal carb. on a tr6c. I'm having trouble when the throttle is opened I'm getting a sputter and lose of power from 3000 rmps and up.
 

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When U twist the throttle grip open, the cable pulls the slide up into the carb. body thereby "opening", (un-blocking) the passage of air/fuel mixture into the manifold. When U release the throttle, the slide flops down, re-blocking the flow and "rests" on the idle speed adjusting needle enough to keep the bike running. Hope this helps. Why U lose "power" at higher RPM's could be several things: Timing?, needle mixture level setting (too high/ too low ie: too rich/ too lean)? Float level (probably not if U have the plastic float), valves? etc.? Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok i think i figured it out the choke is engaged when its down so thats why the bike is starting so easy in the cold weather here(NY). so i have to start the bike with the choke on then let it warm it up then slowly turn off the choke and see it that helps. so the choke control works the opposite what i thought. ill try this and report back.
 

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Looks like you figured it out.

"Choke" (air lever) works opposite of what you'd expect from other bikes. You pull the lever, which pulls the cable, which raises the slides, to turn it OFF.

When fully off, you should see NO PART of the air slide when looking in the throat of a carb with the throttle fully open.

If you see part of the air slide(s), adjust the enricher cables 'till the slides draw up fully.
 

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never had an air slide on my bike(when i was using an amal!never had any problem to start even in very cold weather!!!
just tickle and flood the carb :IT WORKS.
no need of it and no problem with it anymore
ben
 

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Yeah, most of us get rid of the choke altogether...kind of like widom teeth...not necessary (so I'm told). Pull the choke slide out, disconnect cable and "seal" the cable "hole" in the top of the carb. cap. "Tickler" is all you really need. E.P.A. doesn't like all that gas leaking into the enviornment, but we're all goi'nna die anyway so might as well have some "fun" before you go! If it's so cold you "need" a choke, you probably shouldn't be riding anyway! :hammer:
 

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Glad you got her working.

Being an admitted novice to all motorcycles I have tried every which way to start my bike that has been posted in this forum and her is what I've come to realize: Every bike has it's own personality. Mine will not start without the choke, ever! People tell me I should get rid of it, but my bike likes the choke on for start up. I have tweaked the carbs, had qualified mechanics look at it, and it is the way it is.

The bottom line is you know how to start "your" bike and that's all that counts. Ride it and enjoy it and you know have the coolest bike on the block!
 

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quag:

As much as logic dictates it ain't so, I agree; I have found two bikes side by side, similar equipment, plugs, etc., one needs choke AND tickle, the other needs tickle only.

Que sera sera, as Doris Day might sing...
 

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I've had more than my share of good bikes. I always ask some one what their starting drill is if I'm going to ride their bike for whatever reason. The old hogs were fairly similar, flood the carb.,kick and hope. When I used to get a bike I'd always figure out what the drill was first thing. Good clarification Quag&GPZ One thing I might pass on, Never loose your temper with a hard starting bike, as when it does start you might be mad enough to do someting stupid and get hurt or screw you bike up. Tt was a bitter lesson I learned and never forgot,in the old days :mad:
 
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