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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen somewhere stock indicators cut down so they don't stick out so ridiculously...

is it just a matter of removing, cutting with hacksaw and replacing?

pics?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah! I thought as much - and yes, easy, but it is a bit more fiddling than I thought.

Probably is easier to get some aftermarket ones, they're only about $20 at the moto shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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I also did the turn signal shortening. I didn't like the stock signals, but really just didn't like the way they stuck out so far. I was looking at aftermarket signals but nothing hit me. They can be very inexpensive which made trying the mod an easier decision. Knowing that even if I screwed up it was cheap to fix. But it turned out to be really easy mod to do and didn't take any time at all. The stems are plastic and easy to cut through, plus there is freedom to make them as short as you like.
 

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On 2006-12-03 00:33, DrPangloss wrote:
Then again, it kinda looks like fun, I just might do it just to satisfy my loathing for those goofy stock ones.
Here are some of the common alternatives - some not so cheap.

http://www.bellacorse.com/bcc127.htm
http://www.bellacorse.com/bcc062-65.htm
http://www.bellacorse.com/bcc007-8.htm
http://www.bellacorse.com/bcc090.htm
http://www.newbonneville.com/html/bullet_marker_lights.html
http://www.newbonneville.com/html/kellermann_turn_signals.html
Dr.P,also try the DennisKirk and J&P Cycles websites and check the signals in both the HD and metric bike "catalogs". I really like my Kuryakyns. They are somewhat spendy but the build quality is awesome.

:-D
 

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Some cold rainy day, I need to set to work on cutting some
factory signals down; I've got some extra laying around,
thanks for the link.

I belong to the camp of actually liking the factory signals,
more importantly the lens. But those arms DO make them
stick out there quite a bit.... very functional, but not very
flattering to the bike.

Is there anybody out there who knows of a good product for
painting the plastic housings? I would imagine I'll hafta
sand the chrome finish down before painting them,
but I want as smooth and glossy a Black finish as I
can give them. And that might be to include painting the
tail lamp ("pod") the same glossy Black as well.
:cool:

[ This message was edited by: FattRat on 2006-12-03 09:20 ]
 

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Pat,when I painted my stockers I just wiped them down with a degreaser/wax remover and sprayed them. I`ve had good luck with Krylon Fusion,Duplicolor gloss black enamel and even Hammerite.[the REAL stuff,not the Krylon version].The chrome on the lights isn`t metallic,so really no need to rough them up first.
 

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Like FattRat, I like the stock turn signals, but I have to admit that the rear brake light bothered me to no end, until I installed the Lucas style brake light/turn signal kit from newbonnieville.com. The instructions on shortening the stockers are really great though, and could come in quite handy if I ever wanted to reinstall the stockers with another brake light.
 

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I belong to the camp of actually liking the factory signals,
more importantly the lens. But those arms DO make them
stick out there quite a bit.... very functional, but not very
flattering to the bike.


:cool:
I'm with you. I like the stock light too, even the taillight. But shortening the arms wouldn't be bad in my book! Maybe a good winte project.
 

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I switched from the stockers to one of the popular aftermarket kits and back to the stockers. Main reason is that the rigid mounting of the aftermarket ones made them tend to shake bulbs apart and the replacement was a PITA due to soft screws that held the bulbs in. However, I also find the visibility of the stockers a lot better, and an added bonus is that if I leave my signals on I'll see them in my peripheral vision.

So I'm happy enough with the stock signals for now. I may replace 'em again in the future, but I will look for flexible mounting and good visibility in whatever replaces them.
 

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On 2006-12-03 21:24, n578md wrote:
Thank you sir. A lot of soldering and heat-shrink tubing went into this little project. I could not figure out how to remove the connector shells on the turn signal wires. The damned things would just not come off no matter how hard I pressed the tangs. So I had to cut the wires...

n578md, very nicely done on a mighty fine looking bike! - I'm knocked out by the hard bags - how do you like them?

And... do my eyes deceive me or do you have red lenses on the turn signals on the back? Painted with red clear, or what?

Puzzled to hear the connector shells wouldn't cooperate - the shells rotated right out and off came the wires easily on mine - I can imagine that having to cut the wires and solder added a few strokes to a job well done...

Completely agree with the comments on visibility of the stock turn signals - have yet to find an inexpensive pair that are as bright or as visible - from all meaningful viewing angles (such as you'd find in a typical bases - loaded 4-way intersection) - as the stockers. Like 'em, love 'em, or hate em, you can definitely see 'em. Some of the aftermarket turn signals I've seen pretty much disappear in broad daylight - IMHO, not good.

That said... the Kuryakins look dynamite... and BRIGHT... clicked on the link and spent too much time today on Kuryakins web site checking those out, thanks to valveburner - I mean, rodburner :-D

Cheers,


D9
 

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That BonnieBagger is SHARP,
those abbreviated signals CLEAN,
running lamps an added BONUS,
and factory lenses conspicuously SAFE!

I am blown away by the marriage of that seat to those bags, looks like it was meant to be. May I be the first to ask for a good shot of the whole bike? I believe we've seen it before, but you owe it to us to bust our eyes AGAIN.

That is one sweeeeet package!
 

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I'd like to have a new Thruxton and make my bonnie look like yours.

I have some hardbags too, though they were cheap. $75 bucks on Craigslist, and I made the brackets out of $5 worth of steel with my MIG welder:



Ok, so they're leatherlykes and very pricey to buy new, also these are for the honda shadow ACE, not the bonnie so they're a little bigger. I stuck some emgo turn signals in the stock location to clear the bags. I hate the stud-n-tassel look so these may get blasted in spray on bedliner one day. Right now they're in the closet where they belong.

Your bike looks great.
 

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I was killing some time on the floor of the local Ducati dealership, and my eyes wandered to the tail light and blinckers on their modern classic range, certainly much more nicely executed than that ET's head lookin' unit that Triumph stuck us with on the Bonnevilles. The Bonnie line up is such a great looking collection of retro bikes (certainly overall nicer looking than these Ducatis) and then they slap that ridiculous tail light and turn signal (the turn signals are actually not too bad other than way too long, but that tail light, that things a monstrosity) hardware on them, the design person in charge of that area has his head up his arse.
 

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I have a Millermatic I sort of "borrowed" from my girlfriend's dad about 2 years ago. It has the capability to run gas, but I've been using flux-core for all my stuff.

It's a 115 volt, and welds anything up to 1/4'' or even 5/16'' just fine, all the way down to about 16 gauge without too many problems burning through. 18 gauge is tough without burning up the metal.

I would just get the 115 v if I were you, unless you really want to weld some steel beams or something. I made my bag brackets out of 1'' square tubing and 1/8'' plate, and some 3/4'' bolts I cut up. I could post a pic if you want.

The lil' 115v mig welders are pretty dang useful, for any project you may have.

We welded a big ass steel cage covered with expanded steel and a heavy steel gate inside my buddy's band's van so they can lock their equipment inside. The welder was running for 3 days straight working on the cage and never missed a beat. The cage is awesome, and totally iron-clad sturdy.

I'd also recommend getting a 4'' angle grinder, with the cut-off wheels/disks, and some grinding disks, and some of the sandpaper covered flapper disks. I have a Ryobi angle grinder that was less than 50 bucks and I've beat the hell out of it for 2 years and it works great. My favorite tool!

With a MIG welder and an angle grinder, and a good vise you can build almost anything.

I think the Lincoln welders are pretty good, and like you said are readily available at the big box stores.

I'd get the nicest 115 volt that can handle gas, or maybe the 240 if you have power available and just want to.

Really, after spending time with mine I wouldn't get a nicer one, I'd spend the big bucks and get a TIG. Santa???
 

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I'd avoid the stick welders. MIG is so easy once you get the hang of it and aren't afraid of getting burned...get some good gloves and a wire brush.

Just point and shoot! Also, home depot and Lowe's sell the same welding book that is pretty informative.
 
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