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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought a 76 T140 a while back. Someone stripped the tank down, filled in the screw holes, sanded it and painted the tank.

Don't get me wrong the paint job is phenomenal, but the badges were painted back on. Is it possible to drill the screw holes back in for the badges?

I just bought a tank off this forum with the badges on, but if I can get them on my tank I'd sell the one I just bought in a heart beat.

I don't really want to mess with putting holes in the gas tank, but I wondered if it was possible and if anyone has experience in doing it. Maybe I'd give it a shot one day.
 

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drilling sounds like a bad idea unless you've got a 100% sure-fire way of locating the original holes, and i'm not sure that the curvature of the tank is well enough defined to use the badges a guide. maybe if you used the badges to trace an outline and then felt free to sand, within those borders, through the paint until you found the outline of the holes?

filler can be hard to remove. i've burned it out with propane and it takes quite a bit of heat, so i imagine it would be hard to keep the rest of your paint job intact that way.

on the two tanks for which i've removed bondo from badge mounting holes, two of the thread bungs developed leaks after i chased the threads. the leaks may have been waiting to happen, of course, but it sure felt like i aggravated the situation.

just to say that those things can be pretty fragile...
 

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the badges are held on with this type of fixing, they work a bit like a pop rivet but leave a thread
http://www.rivetnuts.com/
You may be able to see the two on the right hand side of the tank looking through the filler cap,
the other two I doubt you can see trying to locate these without damaging the paint will be very difficult,
saying that the badges are large and will cover a fair size hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the badges are held on with this type of fixing, they work a bit like a pop rivet but leave a thread
http://www.rivetnuts.com/
You may be able to see the two on the right hand side of the tank looking through the filler cap,
the other two I doubt you can see trying to locate these without damaging the paint will be very difficult,
saying that the badges are large and will cover a fair size hole.
If I can't figure anything out, I may just try to sell the tank. I'm sure someone would buy it. Although the badges are painted on they've done a great job with the paint.
 

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assuming they didn't do too sloppy of a job with the bondo, you might be able to get a pretty close to locating the original holes with a weak magnet. just find the smallest, cheapest fridge magnet you can and move it slowly toward where the screws are painted on the tank (which ought to be close to the right spots). if you mark the spots where it stops sticking, when approaching from enough different angles, you should probably be able to draw a pretty fair circle. then you can just find the middle with a compass and sand pretty accurately with a die grinder....

or maybe you could take a shot with the paint layout schematics at raskcycle.com. they only have them up through 1970, but the emblem was the same after 1968, right? maybe?

it's a pretty tank you've got and it'd be nice to get some real badges on it. of course, you might start by making sure the real badges would fully cover the painted-on ones. If they don't then you don't really have a decision to make.
 

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...I had the same problem,tank damaged & repaired over screw holes BUT you can use auto-adhesive to bond the badges onto the tank,cut down the screws so you have only the heads,then stick THEM onto the badges.It take hours to 'cure' so use some masking tape to secure them in the right place.Nearly is good enough if you take your time & nobody will notice... Only don't expect to get the badges off without force as the stuff I used became as tough as footrest rubber!Someone on here will tell you the silicon code,its used to stick 'trim' on painted car surfaces... Just my 2 bobs worth... Cheers!
 

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...I had the same problem,tank damaged & repaired over screw holes BUT you can use auto-adhesive to bond the badges onto the tank,cut down the screws so you have only the heads,then stick THEM onto the badges.It take hours to 'cure' so use some masking tape to secure them in the right place.Nearly is good enough if you take your time & nobody will notice... Only don't expect to get the badges off without force as the stuff I used became as tough as footrest rubber!Someone on here will tell you the silicon code,its used to stick 'trim' on painted car surfaces... Just my 2 bobs worth... Cheers!
My thoughts exactly!!:D
silverfish
 

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...the only problem with ordinary clear silicone is it'll get attacked by any fuel that might get spilt,thats why I'd recommend a more specialised type... There must be someone on here who does body repairs who can put you right?Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
...the only problem with ordinary clear silicone is it'll get attacked by any fuel that might get spilt,thats why I'd recommend a more specialised type... There must be someone on here who does body repairs who can put you right?Cheers!
Thanks for the info, I may try this. I could find someone who works in auto body or stop by the auto collision shop and ask those guys.
 

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+ 1 for clear silicon as a temporary/permanent solution for securing the OEM badges to your tank until it comes time to repaint you tank and search for those elusive screwed holes for your tank badge screws.
If you have a good set of eye-brow badges and hold them up to the bodged attempt to replicate them in paint, I'm sure you'd have to agree the real thing looks far better in chrome with it's black & white hi-lights? If you go for the industrial grade clear Silastic, I betcha you'll never have your badge drop off until the time comes to wrestle it off when it comes time to sand back & re-spray your tank some time in the future? Provided you don't go soaking the Silastic in petrol, the odd splash from a sloppy re-fuel shouldn't budge the stuff from my experience. Good luck with whatever way you go.
 

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Bonding

If the badges are attached with any bonding agent, the bond is only to the paint/lacquer surface.
You need to get down to metal with the surface key to get a good job.
I know someone who bonded a shelf to a wall!!, even more optimistically through the wallpaper....
When it fell off, they bad mouthed the No-nails, rather than their own ineptitude!
Good luck
RC
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I'd be surprised if the weight of the badges themselves fell off and took paint with them, and if they did, oh well I can glue them back on.
 
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