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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Photobucket album for this build. It will be updated regularly.

So I've been searching for a wrecked bonneville to build for about 9 months now. They pop up regularly on the salvage auction sites, but they were never the right one. I wanted '09 or newer, preferably '11 or newer, enough damage that I could get it cheap, but not so much that nothing would be usable. As long as the engine, pcm and frame were good, that's all I needed.. and I can repair the engine and frame too, so even that wouldn't be a big deal.
I finally found one on IAA, at their auction house Northeast of Atlanta. I scored it for a great price because it was very damaged (so much so that it was auctioned as parts only with no title) and missing parts. I drove down there to pick it up on Friday (15 hour round trip), and this is what it looked like after I picked it up:







I will be updating this thread regularly as progress is made, and I've had months to plan what I want to do, so it should happen pretty quickly, as long as I don't run into major unforeseen issues.

Something I noticed right away was that it has gauges with digital odo, and I thought that wasn't added until '11.

Anyway.. onward and upward! First update will post in a few minutes.
 

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Wow! I am interested to see what you do with your parts bike. I thought 2011 was the first year for digital speedo also.
 

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I believe they rolled out the VDO gauges in the tail end of the 2010 production year, so this Bonnie is likely a late MY10 build. Example would be my 2010 Thruxton with an early build date running the mechanical speedo.


Are you going to re-title it with a rebuilt title? Or you planning or finding another frame?

Looking forward to see the direction you take with the bike. It's far gone enough that you can really make some wild mods to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Things that I have already:

2012 street triple forks
2009 daytona 675 triple tree
2006 speed triple front spindle
2009 street triple front brake calipers
2007 speedmaster right front brake caliper (more on that in a minute)
barnett green clutch springs
D&D slip-ons
MAS engineering front fender
1997 F3 forks and allballs fork seals/dust seals (which I am no longer going to use)

Things which are already on their way to me:

2013 Tiger 800xc front hub (which will be sent to Buchanan's so they can make a custom set of spokes)
brushed Aluminum cam cover
2012 street triple front brake master cylinder
05 speedmaster ignition switch with one key
chrome side covers (won't remain chrome)
one fork cartridge from an 09 daytona 675 (to see if it will work in a street triple fork)
and several ingredients which shall remain secret for now

I'm currently cataloging all factory parts that I will need to replace, and should be ordering all that later today.

I've been very pleased with everything I've seen on the bike so far. After removing the shift lever cover and engine covers, everything there looks great. I was happy to see the only part of the shift linkage that was damaged was the gear change shaft. There was a bit of water in the oil pan sitting below the oil, which worried me at first, but after removing the cam cover and checking the spacing between the cam lobes and the tappets, I'm convinced the water intruded through the open hole left by someone taking the oil fill cap after the accident, rather than through the intake during the accident [wipes sweat from brow and relaxes]. The spacing between cams and tappets were all .20-.25mm. I'm not sure what the specs are on those because I don't have a service manual yet, but considering that they were all the same, it is a safe assumption that there is not damage to the valves.

As a side note, I was really hoping to find a pdf version of the factory service manual that I could buy, like I have for other bikes and cars. I just prefer pdf to paper manuals.

The pcm was still with the bike, which I didn't know for sure before I drove to pick it up.

The gauges some how did not receive any damage in the accident other than a very small dent on one of the chrome trim rings.

I was initially planning on leaving the tank and other various parts bare metal and brushing them because I love brushed metal; and then on the tank, apply a left offset stripe with a narrow stripe left of that. These will be done in copper leaf, as will a few other parts, and then clear coated. I like to be different though, and although I love brushed metal, it seems that many people have done the bare metal look on their retro bikes. So I'm now considering having a translucent bronze powder coated over the brushed parts, and then apply my copper leaf and clearcoat. The brushed aluminum cam cover will be powder coated translucent copper, because the copper leaf will not work well there with what I want to do. I have ideas in my mind how I'm going to modify side covers, engine covers, etc. to make them stand out from the standard mods.

The tank is pretty dented, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. I'd like to not spend $900 there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you going to re-title it with a rebuilt title? Or you planning or finding another frame?
Because it was sold as parts with no title, I'll have to have it titled as a custom build, and they will assign me a new vin #. But, that means it will be titled as an Ashton Technica Chimera, rather than a triumph bonneville. :cool:

Ashton Technica: my branding
Chimera: the name I've given this bike because it will be built from so many different bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
No problem bullitt, I got it for $750, and after the auction fees, it was $984, plus $150 broker fee (which is very cheap for broker fees), plus $200 in fuel to go get it.

So since I brought up my branding earlier, here it is:



I'm thinking of applying it in copper leaf to the side of the tank. I've had to develop a method that should work for getting the sizing (the glue used for leafing) only on those small parts of the gryphon without getting it anywhere else, since they are too small for me to brush on the normal way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm sure I'll have many questions throughout this build, so those of you with many answers.. stick around!

For example.. why do the throttle bodies have what looks like a choke knob? And there is a small adjuster wheel below the left throttle body which I don't know the purpose of either. I've never seen these two things on FI throttle bodies before.
 

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I'm sure I'll have many questions throughout this build, so those of you with many answers.. stick around!

For example.. why do the throttle bodies have what looks like a choke knob? And there is a small adjuster wheel below the left throttle body which I don't know the purpose of either. I've never seen these two things on FI throttle bodies before.
The "choke like" knob is a throttle adjuster..when starting up cold,you pull the knob out and the bike runs at about 1500-2000 rpm..half way out about 1200 rpm..when warmed up,push knob in and it should idle arround 1000 rpm.The small wheel is a fine adjuster for the throttle.When warm and it idles higher/lower,just spin the wheel to fine adjust.It has a purpose and is not just decoration!Hope this helps..good luck on the project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^That definitely helps, and I appreciate it. I've never had an FI bike that needed those before. Programming the pcm to take care of all that is super easy, so it makes me wonder if Triumph left those manually dealt with on purpose due to the style of the bike.
 

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Well this looks pretty cool. Can't wait to see how this comes down. As far as branding and logos etc...all ggod so far but if you are trying to sell something....please don't. Its agains the AUP rules of the this website unless you are a sponsor. So carry on. Just don't want to see a good thread closed down because of a lack of knowledge of the AUP.
 

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Well this looks pretty cool. Can't wait to see how this comes down. As far as branding and logos etc...all ggod so far but if you are trying to sell something....please don't. Its agains the AUP rules of the this website unless you are a sponsor. So carry on. Just don't want to see a good thread closed down because of a lack of knowledge of the AUP.
Wow. Why don't you read the posts first?
 

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Good luck with the build.....I look forward to the progress (with lots of pics) and the result:D
 

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That's a pretty decent price, I have never learned more about my car than when I tore apart a parts car just like it. Can't wait to see what I learn through the pictures as you tear down this bike. Already got an answer to a question I haven't ask yet, fine tune the idle, that's what I figured but had not verified it yet.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Day two

Listening to the Night Visions album by Imagine Dragons. Key tracks you should check out: Nothing Left to Say / Rocks, Demons, On Top of the World, Radioactive (of course), Bleeding Out, Underdog

List of things I could use from the Trat crowd (contact me if you have any of these available, and this list will probably be added to in later posts):

*k&n or DNA pod filters
*Exhaust headers, factory or other- I specifically need the left side; mine is crushed
*gas tank!!- bad paint is fine, some dents are fine (no large creases though, I know a guy who is a magician with dents, but creased metal is pretty much permanent)
*Seat cowl- bad paint is fine, but no cracks
*Thruxton gel seat or contemporary seat
*aftermarket rear suspension- tell me what you have available
*repair manual (unless someone wants to just tell me the torque specs and other minor details when I need them)
*probably more I'll think about later

Lots of disassembly today; checking parts, cleaning parts, cataloging factory parts that need to be ordered. I'll place that order tonight. It's a smaller list than I had anticipated.. then again I am replacing the entire front end with non-factory parts.

QUESTION: Does anyone know a good way to remove the upper steer tube bearing race without buying the expensive puller? An automotive race puller should work for the bottom one, but the top race is almost flush with the inside of the steer tube, and is directly against it.

This is how it stands tonight after I put the engine covers back on to keep the organs clean:



and a pic with two of my other three corner-huggers:



So one issue I found was that the left throttle body had broken where the throttle cable bracket mounts to it, and parts of the throttle cable bracket and other parts of the throttle had been slightly bent. So this is what I did to avoid a $2105 purchase (yes, the throttle body assembly is that much.. ridiculous for technology this old). Disassemble throttle bodies, drill hole in left throttle body where the mount broke (see pics with red arrow), degrease and clean everything, install bolt, spacer, lock washer and nut in place of the broken mount, done.

PICS!!










Repaired



Reassembled

 
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