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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, I've spent an entire afternoon stuck on this problem and its driving me nuts. With night falling its getting mighty cold in the shed, so I've called it a night and thought I'd see if anyones faced the same problem.

Brake light is dead, no illumination with headlight on or activating either brake switch. Checked the circuit, checked the fuses, all ok. Pulled out multimeter, pulled the bulbs out, pressed the brake switch, got 12V. Put the globes back in, nothing. Checked the voltage with the globe in place, 0.1 V.

During my general farting about I noticed that the sidestand relay is clicking when I hit the brakes. But for the life of me I cant figure out what is causing the voltage to drop when the globes are in place. I was sure it was practically a straight battery/switch/light setup... stuffed if I can figure it out.
 

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check it again with the bulbs out, but push the base ontacts down with the point of your multimeter.i bet when the base is pushed down onto the spring it has nicked your wire somewhere, causing a short when you put the bulb in.with any luck you can pull the bulb holder apart and solder new wires into them
 

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Dave there is a sneaky in line fuse on some models...it's to the left of the igniter box in a small black plastic fuse holder (5a blade fuse in it) worth a look in case you missed it...;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ahh the fuse of broken dreams, yeah fell for it about at around about 4 oclock this arvo. Was dancing on air when I found it, I'm doing a complete check and tidying up of the harness (In for a penny in for a pound I figure) so it all came apart, emery on the contacts, some contact cleaner, a new fuse... was spectacularly soul crushing when I put it all back together and the brakes still didn't work.

Will definately have to pull apart the light housing tommorow, didn't think to check the wires behind the bulbs, but now you mention it makes a lot of sense... still doing my head in as to why the sidestand relay trips when I activate one of the brake switches though... been pouring over the wiring diagrams in the manual, and cant find a link between the two, but have noticed that I've got a brown wire going into that relay that should be a different colour according to the diagram... Have a bad feeling that's going to come back to haunt me... The side stand switch works as normal, but the neutral switch stopped working shortly before the bike was stolen, figured it was just a gunked up switch, and was pretty low on my list of things to fix, but then coupled with the clutch switch having never worked, and this wire going into the relay being the wrong colour... well the colour of the creek I'm paddling up is turning a murky shade of brown and starting to smell mighty funny...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Weekend has passed... I know there are old jokes about english wiring, but I thought it had passed by the time these bikes where being built... Long story short, front brake and clutch switches dont work, side stand switch works, but the relay trips every time the rear brake is pressed. Indicators are back to front... swapped the wires around to they work properly now, but according to the diagram they're back to front, the neutral light only comes on when the bike is facing downhill, and the brake pedal is pressed... and neutral shows wether its in gear or not.

Oh and a little heads up for anyone using the haynes manual for wiring, the light brown wire on the bike is printed in the darkest shade of brown possible in the book. It looks like black so was causing me all kinds of grief, but if you look really closely at the book in good light you can see its actually dark brown. Its also one of the main positive wires, so printing it as black is just evil...

Better news is got everything running, and took the bike for a quick spin... after riding the Vmax I can say, love having a bike that can handle, also love the noise of the triple. Not so great tho, I forgot how much weight goes on the wrists! Was in agony after 15 minutes, that and found myself accidentally holding it to redline, Vmax has two seperate stages to its torque curve, up to 6000, then the V-boost starts feeding fuel from the second carbies and it hits warp drive to 9,500, found myself holding on waiting for the second wave to hit. Its running mighty rich at the moment and bogging off the line so some tuning is in order, a reworking of riding style is needed to!
 

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Dave there is a sneaky in line fuse on some models...it's to the left of the igniter box in a small black plastic fuse holder (5a blade fuse in it) worth a look in case you missed it...;-)
Mot, where exactly is this fuse? My Haynes says there should be an inline fuse, but f*&%ed if I can find it???
 

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If I remember rightly it's about half way along the L/H rear frame rail below the seat, small black flip top box with a single blade fuse in it ;-) Tis tucked away !!

Cheers
Mot
 

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thanks mate, I'll have another look for it this afternoon. Brake lights aren't working, and I'm hoping this little sucker is the culprit. thanks for the help.
 

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found that fuse, thanks MOT. I'd been looking at that thing all along actually, but I thought it was a plug of some sort, not a fuse holder.
Unfortunately for me though, the fuse was fine, so I got bigger issues somewhere. I'll have to put me thinking cap on this weekend and start jerking some wires.
 

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Sorted. In the end, it was 2 dodgy connections. One at the front brake switch, and one at the rear brake switch. Lifted them off, cleaned them up, bit of a spray with contact cleaner, back on and bingo!!

However, it does require a fair bit of pressure on the back brake to get the light to come on. Is this adjustable somehow?
 
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