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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Nice day at the weekend so decided to lower my 05 955i before nipping out, dropped the back as on here in various threads ie turn down the pre-load.Went to drop the forks about 25mm but 1 of the clamp bolts very tight undoing and I noticed head stuck out more than rest(cross threaded at some time?) tried a bit more and head sheared off, damn. Now has anyone successfully drilled and tapped(to clean up threads) on clamp bolt or am I looking at a new top yoke,if so is it a painful or easy job
Your help/suggestions will be greatly appreciated
 

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Hi,

I doubt it would be cross threaded as the bolt has an effective long guide. Its more probably corrosion casued by a chemical reaction between the different materials of the bolt and yolk.

To drill and rethread in line is a real art and difficult to get right.

However you may success with an 'easy out' (reverse coarse threaded extractor). Go for the biggest you can get in i.e drill the pilot hole as big as you can (this weakens the side wall of whats remaining of the bolt.

Get a quality one. Cheap ones are either likely to shear or be to soft to be of any use. If it shears and jams in it they are to hard to drill out.

Best of luck.

Regards

Chris
 

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I am anxiously awaiting responses to this thread, as I also seem to have one top yoke bolt that feels cross-threaded from new.

I have noticed the spacing between upper/lower yoke is wider at this particular fastener, but didn't worry much about it-until I had to tow my bike home from a 12K service last winter on a very cold day. I used a "Bar Harness' which is designed for Tigers, sport bikes and other bikes that have fairings and large/wide fuel tanks like ours to prevent chafing of paint and delicate parts from ratcheting straps. I threw the bike on the back of my pickup and transported it the 50 miles home after dark. Upon arrival home, I noted my handlebars had pulled backward to the point they were nearly contacting the fuel tank! Not good. I used a ratchet and appropiately-sized Allen tip and tried to back it out. That's when it felt like it was stripped. So I carefully tried going the other way, but there was lots of resistance, so I stopped before I got to the point you did. Been meaning to bring it to my dealer's attention, but it slips my mind. I'm just hoping they can carefully remove it with penetrating oil, retap and replace fastener. I'm inclined to let them do it, so if it breaks it might be covered. Or is that just wishful thinking?

At any rate, good luck, mate. Let's hear from others out there.

Gerry
2005 Tiger BRG
 

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Ouch!

don't you just hate it when that happens

Drilling and re-tapping is no problem when the yoke is off the bike.

I would strongly recommend that the easy out solution is used as a last resort, I find that they work great on soft bolts (hex head) and the break is at the surface where it can be cleaned up flated off and drilled square.

the yokes are counterbored and I imagine the brake to be close to the slot so a good way down.

I would remove them and take to an engineering shop.

the bolts are parallel so the yoke can be set up in the good hole and then moved over to the bad hole to be end milled or drilled out.

cap head bolts are tough stuff
 

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Doh!! Simple job bites back

+ 1 on Robbies suggestion, unless you access to some decent tooling I`d leave it to an engineering workshop.
A new top yoke at BikeBandit is $161 or whatever that is in £`s, bite the bullet and get it done properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah did see that one Jon even put number in phone to ring today then forgot, will give em a ring tomorrow,cheers M8
 
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