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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody replaced their calipers on a 2022 Bobber>, and if so, did you have to reset the ABS lights (im praying its a straight swap and reverse bleed for the calipers.
Thx
 

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First, why "upgrading"?? I mean, the original calipers are real good, one of the best you can find factory mounted in this line of bikes, and long enough to brake the bike power. Where is the need of upgrade???

Second and answering, bleeding the circuit does not produce any kind of ECU error or ABS light setting on BUT... as with any ABS circuit, you should set up a bleeding mode to bleed also the liquid within the ABS pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, but I wish I talked to you before buying them. I really just wanted to change the rear, but felt do it all. Iv used Tune ECU before to add a map but dont dare to try it again,the map was costly. (DNK map)
 

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Yes, but I wish I talked to you before buying them. I really just wanted to change the rear, but felt do it all. Iv used Tune ECU before to add a map but dont dare to try it again,the map was costly. (DNK map)
Using the DNK map does not affect to TuneECU usage - map management and service management is made in full separated areas. Do not worry for that.

Regarding kit, I guess it is the code #303826.

If you ordered the gold version and want the custom look... that's different.

But if your concern is performance, honestly, if I were you, I would ask for a refund. I am not saying there will be no difference with those brakes, but for the speed and usage you can expect from a bobber (it is not a thuxton), I doubt it pays. (If I did not check bad, it is a near $1500 investment)

I would first invest so much money on suspension - an area where original equipment is not so "in the edge" when compared to brakes.

¿You already found a situation where you felt lack of brakes? I have been involved in some emergency braking with my speedmaster, much heavier, and it has reacted better than most bikes I have used, some faster and more sporty...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just might do that,Im a very casual rider dont really speed. I checked my order from AJ cycles and there wasnt any model number to be found/ I just spoke to a dealer and he said shouldnt have a problem just make sure theres no old fluid in the ABS. He has said they do use a dealer tool but dosent know why,he is a service teck I assume.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I asked what the
Hey Brian,

It makes the ABS module empty itself, I would think with a vacuum tool or reverse bleeder you'd achieve similar results.
tool was for and he said this
 

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Yes, but I wish I talked to you before buying them. I really just wanted to change the rear, but felt do it all. Iv used Tune ECU before to add a map but dont dare to try it again,the map was costly. (DNK map)
You would have got the map from DNK in an email, did you save the email/map
 

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You have two twin piston brembo brake callipers upfront (which is stock from the factory), I would have changed the brake pads to a softer compound, like an EBC HH rated pad.......I also have thought about changing the rear Nissin single piston calliper to a twin piston calliper, but I'm still running the Nissin single piston calliper, but I have changed the rear pads to EBC FA140HH, they are a softer pad and they bite a little harder.
 

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You have two twin piston brembo brake callipers upfront (which is stock from the factory), I would have changed the brake pads to a softer compound, like an EBC HH rated pad.......I also have thought about changing the rear Nissin single piston calliper to a twin piston calliper, but I'm still running the Nissin single piston calliper, but I have changed the rear pads to EBC FA140HH, they are a softer pad and they bite a little harder.
That what you write sounds a bit contradictory.

I mean. In fact I am actually using EBC FA140HH brake pads in my speedmaster. I like the brand and behaviour and use to relay on those.... but they are NOT supposed to be "soft" pads. In fact they are the hardest sintered pads in the regular street use series. For a softer result the option should be the V semisintered series.

If you want a hard "bite" you should use strong,er sintered pads. If you prefer a softer reaction, then semi or organic pads...
 

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Not contradictory at all.......The EBC FA140HH pads contain sintered copper which is a softer metal than that of the disc rotor, so they in fact bite harder when braking over the OEM pads originally fitted by Triumph, being a softer brake pad will increase the life of the brake rotor at the expense of brake pad wear.

The HH rating means the pads will perform well in both HOT and Cold/wet conditions

I would still call the EBC FA1400HH a better option than the OEM pads, but it's only a minor gain, I only use that rear brake when doing a U-turn, it is hardly ever used to stop, that's totally front brake...:)
 

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Not contradictory at all.......The EBC FA140HH pads contain sintered copper which is a softer metal than that of the disc rotor, so they in fact bite harder when braking over the OEM pads originally fitted by Triumph, being a softer brake pad will increase the life of the brake rotor at the expense of brake pad wear.

The HH rating means the pads will perform well in both HOT and Cold/wet conditions

I would still call the EBC FA1400HH a better option than the OEM pads, but it's only a minor gain, I only use that rear brake when doing a U-turn, it is hardly ever used to stop, that's totally front brake...:)
I really do not know what kind of compound the original triumph pads use. I have seen no other original documentation about them but "T2022314 triumph original brake pads".

Looking at the surface finishing and color in fact they look to be organic or semisintered. But only guessing. If you have technical information about Triumph pieces like those I would appreciate if you share the origin, to let me evaluate chances for replacements. :love:

Said that, EBC offers three different lines of estandard brake pads. Regular nondesigned organic pads, V line semisintered (or semiorganic) pads, and HH sintered pads. Being the first the softer, and the latter the harder compound.

Whatever the manufacturer or model, sintered pads are ALWAYS harder than organic. The usage of copper is not supposed to make them soft, but heat efficient, and they sell them as designed for strong action for sport, fast braking needed bikes, and extended duration in such continous power braking environment.

If you check at EBC information: Motorcycle Brake Pads - EBC Brakes you will see that you have to go to SXR and MXS racing special series to get harder compounds.

The origin of the HH name is not in any manner related to weather or heat. It is supposed to be related to some friction coefficient name. I do not really know what standard, method or norm, but there is one where the right coefficient for a good brake pad should be "H" level, and thus they name them "Double H". Like being "not simply the good friction, but double of that" - better than best.

The alternative (in EBC or in any brand) of using organic or semisintered pads is always related to having a softer compund, getting smoother brake result, and less duration - while also being less strong making them more sensible to heat elevation at forced braking situations (softer compound means more deformation and degradation, and thus more heat to be diffused into less material)

I have been reading and trying about brakes even in race circuit environment, and have never heard about something like "softer = more brake" or "Sintered = softer".

Again I say. Anybody should notice faster and stronger brake reaction after changing to EBC HH pads, and I do use them.

But that is because they are HARD, not SOFT.

I guess there is a general confusion about this, because when soft, organic compound brakes react to heat sometimes get crystallized. And they look like having a stronger surface while they stop working right. But that is not because they get "harder" but because they get polished and thus lose friction capacity.

Or maybe you have heard that organic compounds use to increase rotor disc wear reduction. But again that is not because they are harder. It is because as being softer they brake less and increase friction in time - it is not "braking" what wears the rotor but "frictioning without braking" - as sintered pads are harder they decrease friction movement and dissipate more heat - and thus wear and attrition in discs is reduced.
 
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