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Ya gonna have to do some sucking and blowing.

The plain pipe connects to the nipple that connects to the flush hole underneath the tank cap. This is your fuel overfill spill hole.

The pipe with the tip over valve connects to the other nipple, obviously, and needs to breath with the gas cap closed.

Switch 'em round an ya get a nize tank vacuum.
 

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When I took my tank off I ran into the same problem. I was gonna be so careful and mark them before I took them off the tank. Problem is, by the time you lift the tank up to get to them they come off the nipples! Trial and error and you can get them hooked back up right! :hammer:
 

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OMG! You didn't take those off, did you? Your bike is so frelled now. You're going to have to re-prime the fuel pump, initialize the ECU, and disassemble the injectors to zero out the fuel metering piston!

That's why I hate newbies. They take a perfectly good bike and reduce it to a smoldering pile of dren by removing the breather lines.

Seriously now, the easiest solution is to remove the check valve on the one line. Solves all your problems, and it's been done by most of the old timers around here.
 

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The tube with the valve goes toward the inside. The plain tube goes to the outside
 

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On 2006-12-20 20:48, crashmasterd wrote:

Seriously now, the easiest solution is to remove the check valve on the one line. Solves all your problems, and it's been done by most of the old timers around here.
I wouldn't like to be pinned under the bike with fuel spilling all over the place. Remove the check valve at yer own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On 2006-12-21 01:20, Goffe wrote:
The tube with the valve goes toward the inside. The plain tube goes to the outside
Hey, an actual answer! Thanks Goffe!

j/k guys.

I actually removed them when I fouled the plugs a couple of months ago. Someone mentioned that if the lines were reversed they got worse fuel mileage. I'm getting less than 100 miles before the fuel light comes on, and thought I would check it.

Avi8or - thanks for telling your method too, I will double check that way to be sure. I also don't really like the idea of no check valve.
 

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On 2006-12-21 01:42, Avi8or wrote:
I wouldn't like to be pinned under the bike with fuel spilling all over the place. Remove the check valve at yer own risk.
The check valve has nothing to do with keeping fuel inside after a crash. It's main purpose is to let air into the tank, but not let fuel vapor out into the atmosphere. It's gravity activated (no spring). If your bike's on it's side (i.e. crashed) the valve doesn't function.

Ask me how I know fuel doesn't leak out after a crash even with the check valve removed... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On 2006-12-21 07:47, crashmasterd wrote:

The check valve has nothing to do with keeping fuel inside after a crash. It's main purpose is to let air into the tank, but not let fuel vapor out into the atmosphere. It's gravity activated (no spring). If your bike's on it's side (i.e. crashed) the valve doesn't function.

Ask me how I know fuel doesn't leak out after a crash even with the check valve removed... :(
Good stuff.
 

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I'd 'av done the blue one :-D
 

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On 2006-12-21 07:47, crashmasterd wrote:
The check valve has nothing to do with keeping fuel inside after a crash.
I have to disagree with you here. In my opinion the valve's only purpose is to prevent fuel spillage.


It's main purpose is to let air into the tank, but not let fuel vapor out into the atmosphere.
That would be the purpose of the California carbon canister.


It's gravity activated (no spring). If your bike's on it's side (i.e. crashed) the valve doesn't function.
You lost me there. If the valve is in a non-vertical position it will not allow anything to flow either way. This is easy to verify by taking the valve off and trying to blow air through.

If the valve would not function (block the pipe) then I would not have had the tank vacuum prob in the first place as the vacuum was mainly due to the valve being mounted in an almost horizontal angle.

:???:
 
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