Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of September's Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are your opinions on the run-in period for a new bike? Do you bother? What happens if you don't? It's as hard as hell to keep the revs down....and for 1000miles! Christ, that's just cruel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Aggressive break-in (load) as early as possible - TO SEAT RINGS!.
Mineral oil.
Frequent oil changes and heat cycles.
Magnet on filter and/or sump.
The first 200 miles are critical.

You can use a leak-down gauge or even compression gauge to help watch the rings seat.

Peak torque (max cylinder filling and pressure) occurs at around 7500 rpm. You need to run to a bit beyond this rpm as a minimum.

If the rings don't seal up early, they definately won't do so later.



[ This message was edited by: Devious2XS on 2007-01-15 07:55 ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
973 Posts
I figure Triumph engineers know what they are talkin about so i did it by the book. Yeah it was torture but whats the alternative. Maybe nothin would happen, maybe it would. Why take the chance. Just take a couple days and get it done. Prolly should take a thousand, gradual build up of miles to get used to anew ride and become thoroughly familiar with it anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
Not again... :brk:

Basically I second Devious. Nicasil bores do not need break in, transmission does not need nor does plain bearings or roller bearings. The rings are relly the only ones that do and rubbing them very lightly is not a good thing and will only polish them for poor seal in the long run.

Load the engine to rub the rings and then cool them down and rinse with oil by coasting down. Then repeate.

The good thing is they hammer the bike on the dyno at the factory as part of the quality check so the engine or chain or whatever does not blow the first time the owner opens the throttle.

[ This message was edited by: HarriS on 2007-01-15 08:53 ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
What is the best oil for my 1050? Should I use the Triumph/Mobil or will the engine blow if I pour in something else?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,065 Posts
Harris - Which oil filter should I run.
What break pads should I use?
Which color is fastest?
What air filter?

If I wash the bike, will it void my warranty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
1. Twist throttle 6 times before you start it!
2. Run bike hard as hell!.
3. After ride let sit at idle for at least 1hr!.
4. Open radiator cap while hot so you can see the fluid level during idle.
5. Ignore steps 1-4 and go by book!
6. BIG MISTAKE ASKING THIS GROUP!!! :hammer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
The dealer has bled my brakes 47 times so far. What is going on?

They have also topped the coolant reservoir to the full mark 75 times and the bike keeps puking the coolant. Do I have a blown head gasket or worse?

Where can I get sound files (recorded with some cheapo digicam or cell phone and played from 10€ PC speakers) so I can make a decision on which exhaust I should buy?


[ This message was edited by: HarriS on 2007-01-15 10:13 ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
On 2007-01-15 07:18, Doc007 wrote:
What are your opinions on the run-in period for a new bike? Do you bother? What happens if you don't? It's as hard as hell to keep the revs down....and for 1000miles! Christ, that's just cruel.

I'll tell you from experience, that if you break it in slow, it will be slow. I've done quite a bit of racing and have owned more bikes/snowmobiles/ATV's than I can remember and I've never had a problem.

Two very important things to do:

1. Let the engine warm up well. I'm not big fan of allowing an engine to idle for a long time. A minute is more than enough. It's better to ride it while taking it easy in lower gears to bring the engine up to temp.

2. Never "lug" an engine whether it's new or not. After you have 10 to 20 miles on the bike, running it up close to redline in 1st or 2nd gear is fine and will help the rings seat. The first two gears insure that you're keeping the load on the engine at a minimum.
It's VERY IMPORTANT to also give the engine good break in with deceleration. Meaning; you run it up in revs and then immediately shut the throttle all the way down and just coast under engine breaking.

Change the oil at 500 to 600 miles and you're good to go.

The manuals are written for idiots. The engineers have to assume the lowest common denominator and put in instructions for the non mechanically inclined.


[ This message was edited by: SPTRIP on 2007-01-15 10:26 ]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
336 Posts
On 2007-01-15 10:06, HarriS wrote:
Where can I get sound files (recorded with some cheapo digicam or cell phone and played from 10€ PC speakers) so I can make a decision on which exhaust I should buy?
:roflmoa2:
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top