+1On 2006-12-23 21:52, 3forme wrote:
You need to allow time for all the rolling, wearing surfaces to 'get aquainted' (mate). If you looked under a microscope you would see how many 'mountains' exist on the surfaces of the parts. It takes time for surfaces such as gear faces and bearing races to 'seat in' because they are made of such hard material.
"Ignorance is simply not knowing. Stupidity is knowing better and doing it anyway."
the funny thing is that most people on this and other forums start thousands of threads blasting dealers and manufacturers about there stupidity about things like brake issues, stalling issues, ignoring problems, etc .. but there break in is gospelOn 2006-12-24 07:34, martinyoung wrote:
You know I've seen that touted around so often. What a load of *****. No manufacturer recommends this but hey, this guy knows better.
Motoman is one out of how many "Race Engine" builders in the world posting on breaking in an engine properly. His method may be best for racing by beyond that, his method is not appropriated for street machines that need to go miles not miles per hour. Think about it, if you do a search on the web regarding this subject, there are few "Professional engine builders" posting on breaking in engines. It's because they know their methods are for "Racing Only".
Blasphemy, blasphemy! :hammer: :hammer:
Your dealer has a vested interest in your future custom, when you turn up with worn out cams and valves, worn bores pistons and rings, knackered gearboxes and all the other nasties.On 2006-12-25 10:40, Warp8 wrote:
My dealer told me to ignore the tank decal and manual, and just ride the ***** bike. He said babying the bike during break in is actually worse for the engine than riding it hard.