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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I trailered it home, rode it just a couple of miles and the Engine and Temp light came on. The code indicated a temp sensor. It has been in the shop, they have ordered a new senor. It rather frustrating to wait 6 weeks for a bike, pay more for it than the bike deserves, drive an hour to get it, then it cannot be ridden. Anyone else have an immediate issue with their brand new Triumph?
Tire Wheel Fuel tank Automotive fuel system Plant
 

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I trailered it home, rode it just a couple of miles and the Engine and Temp light came on. The code indicated a temp sensor. It has been in the shop, they have ordered a new senor. It rather frustrating to wait 6 weeks for a bike, pay more for it than the bike deserves, drive an hour to get it, then it cannot be ridden. Anyone else have an immediate issue with their brand new Triumph?
View attachment 770455
Bugger, maybe the trailered home upset something, have always rode my new bikes home even when pissing down rain lol.
They should have given you a loan bike till then, I know if it happened to me I would have insisted.
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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Just wondering if the sensor is malfunctioning and not an engine issue, why can't you ride the bike until the new part comes in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bugger, maybe the trailered home upset something, have always rode my new bikes home even when pissing down rain lol.
They should have given you a loan bike till then, I know if it happened to me I would have insisted.
I definitely should have taken it for a short ride before taking it home. It was 40F/4C on the day I picked it up and the ride home is one of the least fun drives to do, as it is through a large metro area. I hadn't thought about a loaner bike, but this bike was the only T120 or T100 they had.

I guess I had those crazy expectations of a brand new bike running perfectly, at least to its first service. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just wondering if the sensor is malfunctioning and not an engine issue, why can't you ride the bike until the new part comes in?
I was wondering about that also. One argument against, is that it turns on the engine light and if anything else were to go wrong I wouldn't know. Since, it already came defective, my expectations for everything else working properly dropped considerably. I should see if this bike was assembled on Monday morning or Friday afternoon.
 

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You did the right thing about sending it back.
With batches of electrical stuff there's a really high fail right right off the bat, then everything coasts along fine and then at the end of the product's lifespan the fail rate shoots way up again.
Sucks to get a duff sensor but it'll get sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You did the right thing about sending it back.
With batches of electrical stuff there's a really high fail right right off the bat, then everything coasts along fine and then at the end of the product's lifespan the fail rate shoots way up again.
Sucks to get a duff sensor but it'll get sorted out.
Thank you for the encouraging thoughts. (not being sarcastic)
 

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It could be that the dealer checked the code, finding code P0115 (IIRC), and then ordered a new sensor without any further troubleshooting. This could well be an engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor circuit malfunction detected by the ECU. It's when there is too high or too low a value, or no continuity. It could be a very minor fix, easily corrected yourself, with no harm done if it's not the problem.

Check to be sure the coolant temp sensor connecting plug is properly seated. If loose, you'll get the symptoms described. You can see a rubber boot right next to the left header cooling fin assembly. Remove the seat, and the fuel tank securing bolt. Pad the area under the tank to protect the paint. Move the fuel tank a few inches to the rear, to the limit of its hoses and wires. Follow the wire from the temp sensor to the connector that it's plugged in to. Carefully pull the temp sensor plug out of the connector, and then reseat it. There should be a small click heard and felt. Be very careful with the connector. Study it it be sure you know how it works. If you're undoing it and reseating it properly, it's very easy to do. Don't force it as it's easily broken. If you're successful, the red temp high light will be out and the radiator cooling fan will not be continuously running the next time the bike is started. The MI light will take a few service cycles to reset itself, so don't be concerned if it's still on initially. The code generated will be with you until it's reset. The dealer can do that.

Yes, I had this problem with my T120 after I removed the tank and disconnected most of the under tank wiring to access and remove my bike's valve cover. I got the same symptoms on the first start after reassembly, easily fixed as above. I knew it was something that I'd done because the problem was not there before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It could be that the dealer checked the code, finding code P0115 (IIRC), and then ordered a new sensor without any further troubleshooting. This could well be an engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor circuit malfunction detected by the ECU. It's when there is too high or too low a value, or no continuity. It could be a very minor fix, easily corrected yourself, with no harm done if it's not the problem.

Check to be sure the coolant temp sensor connecting plug is properly seated. If loose, you'll get the symptoms described. You can see a rubber boot right next to the left header cooling fin assembly. Remove the seat, and the fuel tank securing bolt. Pad the area under the tank to protect the paint. Move the fuel tank a few inches to the rear, to the limit of its hoses and wires. Follow the wire from the temp sensor to the connector that it's plugged in to. Carefully pull the temp sensor plug out of the connector, and then reseat it. There should be a small click heard and felt. Be very careful with the connector. Study it it be sure you know how it works. If you're undoing it and reseating it properly, it's very easy to do. Don't force it as it's easily broken. If you're successful, the red temp high light will be out and the radiator cooling fan will not be continuously running the next time the bike is started. The MI light will take a few service cycles to reset itself, so don't be concerned if it's still on initially. The code generated will be with you until it's reset. The dealer can do that.

Yes, I had this problem with my T120 after I removed the tank and disconnected most of the under tank wiring to access and remove my bike's valve cover. I got the same symptoms on the first start after reassembly, easily fixed as above. I knew it was something that I'd done because the problem was not there before.
Thank you so much for the detailed reply. A lot of good information there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
UPDATE:
I wrote an email to Triumph Customer Support last weekend explaining the situation with the brand new bike, and they immediately jumped on the issue and was able to secure parts and had them overnight-ed to the dealer. Triumph's help was great and timely. My only regret is not contacting them right when it happened instead of waiting a week.

My dealer said this was the first time they had a motorcycle fail on its first ride, and they carry to additional brands. So I sort of understand that it didn't occur to contact Triumph immediately to get help with a brand new bike, but I am going to make sure to mention that to them.
 

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Hi, just read your post regarding your dilemma, I’m glad to see you are getting it sorted.
I had an issue when I bought my Thruxton R earlier this year. I was riding it home from the dealer and noticed the gear indicator was not matching the gear I was in. Then the check engine light came on. I was 20km from the dealer and it was closing time, I pulled over and phoned them and explained the problem and after assurances from them that it would be fine to continue riding and bring it in the next day, I rode home.
I took it back in to them the next day( fortunately I was working at a site a few doors down from the dealer). By this stage the traction control light was also illuminated.
I told them I was sure it was the gear position sensor and left the bike with them. Picked it up that afternoon and they explained to me that it was an issue with the battery not being charged properly when the bike was set up. I was doubtful and queried them if that was possible and they were sure that was it. Rode home and all seemed fine until again at about the 20km mark same thing happened. I now think the dealership are idiots and rang them as soon as I got home.
Anyway, end result it was the gear position sensor which had a kinked wire that must’ve been shorting when the engine got nice and warm. The dealerships mechanics obviously don’t take long enough a test ride for the problem to show immediately, so be part was ordered, I rode the bike with the faulty sensor for a couple of weeks and since the new sensor was installed no issues at all.
It was a frustration but never really soured my opinion of the bike. My previous bike (also a Thruxton R) had the wiring harness issues, but once sorted ran flawlessly(30,000km)until I crashed it and wrote it off. I considered other makes for a replacement but nothing in the market appealed to me at that price.
Anyway, I hope once you have this minor issue sorted you get many miles of enjoyment from your new ride,

Tom.
 

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I think dealer's shops often don't go beyond looking for an OBD code when troubleshooting. Easy fixes are never considered because the basics don't get checked, like connections and continuity.
 

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If dealers spend more time diagnosing an issue under warranty, do they get the labor compensated from the factory? Wondering if the factory instructs dealers to go the speedy route first to minimize labor charges back to them.
 

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Back in 2018, I basically had to get the ball rolling with Triumph USA to get my brand new failed 765 radiator replaced under warranty. The local dealer was just like "rock damage" and done/denied, but if they had taken 5 minutes to examine it, they would have seen 8 weeping splits both front and rear on the fin tubing. The frustrating thing is that I had already taken the bike apart and determined the issue, which means either the service dept never read what was entered, or they didn't care.
 

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Had the same situation with my 2020 T120 which turned out to be a shift selector sensor. I'd diagnosed it with my own OBDII tool which pointed to the same code. Took it back and was fixed easy enough but it was bit of PITA to trailer it and such. Dealer Cycle Specialties of Modesto was good about it all and took care of business. Not a problem since in over two years.
 
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