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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, here's the quick, and I hope someone has a fast answer for me so I'm not really upset all night. I just got my new Sprint delivered. Started it up, had it running just fine. I backed it out of the garage with the lights on to check it out and get a picture or two. Then I went to start it up, and I get 2 cranks, then it shuts down. The temperature gauge flashes at me, the red temp light and red oil lights come on, and the yellow check engine light comes on. The temp light and gauge clear out and go normal, then the fuel light comes on (tank is nearly full) and the oil light stays on. But it doesn't start. help!
 

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Have you checked the kill switch.??

Is it out of gear, side stand down, clutch in, when you try to start it?

If it is in gear with the s/s down it will crank but not start. It must have the clutch in too.

Also check the battery terminals. Might even be a dud battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In neutral, kick stand up, kill switch not in. I'm just completely baffled.

All the electricals work. And it had started not 5 minutes prior and ran for a few minutes.
 

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clutch in?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep. If I leave the clutch out, it doesn't even crank. Pull the clutch in, press the starter, and it'll crank twice, then cut off.
 

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I agree with the previous poster....double check battery terminal connexions asap..even if they appear to be tight, if you can, loosen and re tighten.

Also if you have a multimeter a quick and dirty voltage check, just to make sure the battery has enough juice to kick over the starter.......

Sometimes the best thing is a coffee/tea break, then go back outside and redo your starting procedure...kill switch, sidestand, clutch in etc etc.........
 

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These bike won't tolerate any thing else that a perfect battery. Continued attempted starting on these models with an undercharged battery can cause sprag clutch damage (thanks OnD) so be carfeful..

Is it turning over now?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I let it sit for 15 minutes, and tried again. Same deal. Spin twice, lights go on, etc.

Is there something going on with the temperature. The gauge flashes at full temperature and the temp light comes on as soon as the starter disengages itself. It flashes at me for a few seconds, then goes off.
 

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Have you checked the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not yet, I won't take the seat off now. It needs to be unbolted.

But why would it start up just fine off the trailer, run, and then not start if the battery was bad? I would have thought that it wouldn't start at all.

In the on position, all the lights, headlights, etc. work just fine.
 

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As they have said, check the connections and charge the battery. The more low charge false starts you do, the more the odds are of damaging the sprag.

Since it is a new 08, have you considered calling the dealer to pick it up and make it right?
 

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It takes 2 minutes to get the seat off. Let in charge overnight if you have a recharger.

Revisit it in the morning, your warranty won't have lapsed by then....:)

Good luck.
 

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These models are really sensitive to low battery starts and display "strange" symtoms when the battery is failing.

They require a fully charged battery to start. Mine exibited flashing speedo (digital) and tacho needle going funny / fluctuating at start up.

New battery = no problems. :cool:

Yours might just be a dud battery. :mad: it does happen..
 

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You know it makes sense

Well, I agree with the Chef. The first time I had this strange behaviour, I had been fiddling with the electrics and the lights had been on for 15-20 minutes. Bike wouldn't start next day even though the lights worked and all electrics semed fine. A quick recharge and all was well. The Optimate has become the Triumph's buddy now (like it was the BM's RT)
 

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Hey mate....Just picked my new one up today....the dealer mentioned to me that some guys "Twist the throttle" to start up their old bikes with carbies...He reminded me NOT to twisty da throttle as its EFI on the Sprint ST.

Dont know if your doing that...but since he mentioned it to me, thought I'd pass on the info to you....

Got mine home and found a large blob of coolant under it....hoping that was just overflow from its first run...ohhh, well...these new fangled bikes these day :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright guys, I think you are right on the battery. Here's what I did:

Checked the battery, voltage was steady at 11.99 V. A little on the low side, but within tolerances.

Hooked up the charger, read 11.99 volts again, so I amped it up to charge. Got the battery up to 12.59 V, and the bike started, though a little hesitantly. The bike ran fine once started.

Shut the bike off, I could watch the voltage on the batteyr drop from 12.5 steadily back to 11.99 V.

So I guess it's time for a new battery.
 

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Sorry Dad'rocket, but you need to rethink your battery tolerances because they are not in synch with the norm. I think you might be expecting a 12v battery to be at 12 volts when charged.

Most references follow these voltages +/-0.01.


100% 12.7vdc
75% 12.4vdc
50% 12.2vdc
25% 12.0vdc
Discharged 11.9vdc

BTW, sulfation starts at 12.4vdc. A multi-mode charger will remove sulfation.

You are not helping the battery by "amping" up the charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sorry, I meant within tolerances of my cheap radio shack multimeter, which will be +/- .5 V depending on how warm or cold it is. So the battery was anywhere between 11.5 and 12.5 at that point. I use it because it's small and easy to get a feeling for the general state of things. I know, it's a sucky unit, but my nice multimeter can't be used with as much ease.

As far as amping up the charge, I didn't say that, I said I amped up (turned on) the battery charger to charge the battery. I'll try to be more specific, but I am not an idiot either. I've got the battery on my multimode right now, and we'll see if it was just really low, or really a bad battery.
 

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I never called you an idiot. Sorry you feel that way.

All I can go by is what you post. :D
 
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