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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all!

Well, I've done a few hundered miles on my newly purchased 955i and am loving it. I do have a couple of questions, though:

Firstly, how are your front brakes? Mine have plenty of pressure, but feel slightly spongy to the squeeze. There's maybe 2 inches of travel at the tip of the brake lever. A buddy has a light bike, and his brakes feel much sharper and there's 1/4 of the travel. What should I be looking for here?

Also, when it comes to shifting, I've been bringing in the clutch fully, allowing revs to calm a little, then engaging the next gear and trying to give it a little acceleration as I release. Sometimes it'll seamlessly slide into gear, but it often makes a beefy clunk sound as it goes into gear. I've come from a light 125 that you didn't even need the clutch to shift up, so I'm noit sure if this is normal. Should I be getting clunks?

Other than that I'm in love with the bike. I feel like it's been designed just for me: all the sounds and power curves are perfect for my desires! Awesome piece of kit!

Thanks for your help, guys. :-D
 

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Brakes sound normal to me, I find the lever does come back but it will do a stoppie if required I call it feel, as for the gear change I rarely use the clutch to up change just blip off the gas and click it in, I dont want to sound patronising but I think your being a bit too gentle, just pull the clutch in and click it up while quickly dropping the revs, difficult to explain these things as you just do it but its an instant blip pull shift, like i say try cluchless for going up and clutch it down and you should be fine. mine is a bit difficult sometimes between 4th and 5th getting the occasional false neutral but I put that down to me being too gentle/lazy sometimes. :-D
 

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The brakes sound normal. I have seen a few posts asking about the spongyness of the brakes.

as doodle says, I too don't use the clutch to upshift. As far as a clunck, I haven't experienced that, or I just don't recall hearing one. I use the clutch from 1st to 2nd, but after that I usually don't use it unless I get lazy or just cruising on side streets. I have even downshifted a couple times without the clutch and went in smooth. How? I have no idea because when I try it never works. the few times I did it, I wasn't thinking and just did it.
 

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As others the brakes sound normal. This is a point you will either get used to or do some modification as you get to know the bike. These bikes have a history of getting spongy brakes and there are a few things you may need to do in the future which really just amounts to a little extra you need to to as normal maintenance for the bike. The brakes are very good when you do the little extra to keep them feeling solid. It just amounts to either bleeding the system on a fairly regular basis or pushing the pistons back into the calipers every few months. You might want to upgrade to a 5/8" master cylinder sometime in the future, but that's really personal preference on the feel for you. You can just let the dealer deal with it for now until the warrantee runs out!

On the shifting Triumphs have fairly clunky gearboxes. They prefer a firm foot. They also take as long as 10k to break in! They get MUCH smoother when they finally do, but still like a decided shift or clutchless shifting once you are rolling along. Once moving they actually shift better WITHOUT the clutch. Better to use the clutch downshifting though. Just keep riding it, you'll get a feel for her.
 

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In response to all of you guys who do clutchless upshifts, I have always used the clutch because its there and mainly because I always thought you were suppose to. Is there a potential to damage the bike with not using the clutch on the upshift? (I ask because I do not have a clue)
 

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I use the clutch to upshift between first and second and then NEVER after that.

There is a knack to it though, you need to be confident and time it well. Being in the correct gear for the speed your doing helps (if that make sense). In other words, if your are blasting away from the lights, use the clutch between first and second and then have your toe under the lever with slight pressure on it, when you're ready to shift, roll off the throttle ever so slightly and snick it up a gear. When you get this right it's like an auto transmission shifting.

This saves wear and tear on the clutch and does no damage whatever to the gearbox IMO.

You must clutch shift down though...

When I said that you need to be in the right gear earlier, I meant that, assuming that you are now mobile (not running through the gears from the lights), it would be best for the shift, the gearbox and the bike, if you weren't lugging the bike when you shift up. Clutchless shifts require the right rev range for it to "feel right".

Linz :-D
 

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My bike's got 20K miles on it and the gearbox is getting smoother :-D :hammer: .
You're coming off little bikes with tiny gearboxes and going to brand new, much heavier components. Yes, Trump boxes will require a bit more positive action than the snick-snick of a 250 but you will get used to it.
As far as your throttle/clutching, why is it multiple steps? Should be two. Clutch in, roll of, shift.....then release and roll on. Don't make things more complicated than they need to be.
Cheers, Lee S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers guys! Yeah I figured that I was just being too gentile with it, and I'm practicing matching the revs so that it engages smoothly. It's just a case of practice I'm sure.

One last question: there's a small amount of 'slop' with low end power delivery. This is caused by the chain being a tad slack (this I can fix no problem when the weather improves next) but also because of a small amount of slack on the throttle before it seems to open the power, as though the cable needs tightening a bit. How do I tighten the throttle cable?

At the minute, if I'm riding gently, the slop of the throttle and chain makes the bike a little 'lurchy' which puts me off. However, opening it up and riding faster allows for much smoother operation!
 
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