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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need your help guys.....

A buddy came over to help me bleed my front brake (he knows what he's doing). After a couple hours of fighting it, we can't build any pressure in the brake line, none, zilch, nada!?!?!?!

We got to the point of having no more bubbles passing through our clear plastic hose attached to the bleed screw, but can't build ANY pressure.

HELP! Anybody, ANYTHING!

I have a manual and followed it, but to no avail.

If I can't get a front brake.... I won't be able to roll the bike downhill outa the house and I'll hafta convert it into a coffee table.
 

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My guess is you've got a huge air bubble close to the resevoir that is refusing to budge....relax, be persistant.


...beside's, can you imagine a more beautiful coffee table?



...would be the envy of all the neighbor's for certain


:-D
 

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Pat - they are utter mongrels to bleed, these brakes, and I don't know why exactly, but I've never ever had such a bloody hard time bleeding motorcycle brakes as when I changed my bars and brake line last year. A speed bleeder from New Bonneville helped, but it still took ages, and I had to pump like a schoolboy for about an hour. Try tapping the line with a screwdriver up and down the length of it and just wrestling the line a bit to jig it round and dislodge the bubbles. You ought to see them coming out the top eventually, rather than the bottom - you just see what looks like a fine mist in the fluid, then tiny bubbles, then a few big ones and voila!. So best way is to close the bottom bleeder and just work the lever, watch for this - it is a mongrel, but can eventually be done
good luck mate - cheers, Pat
 

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Pat,

I had a similar problem when replacing my front brake hose. After a while, I tried keeping the bleed nipple open (with the bleed tube still immersed in the fluid in the jug - held in place with an old boot) and, with two fingers, tapped the brake lever all the way in and out as quickly as I could for thirty seconds or so (until the reservoir was almost empty) to try to dislodge any bubbles still in the hose before continuing with the usual prescribed method. It seems to have worked, as the pressure built up fairly quickly after that and I've now got very good braking. Be sure to place the reservoir cap on though, otherwise you'll get fluid squirting everywhere.


:cool:
 

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It took about 20 minutes to bleed the brakes on my thruxton when I removed a line, which seemed like a long time, but it eventually worked.

I once had worse trouble with my hawk gt after I replaced a brake line. basically, to get the line to bleed, I had to bleed the lines with the caliper removed and the caliper and line hanging as straight and plumb as possible. Also, I wedged a piece of wood between the pads to keep from popping a piston out of the bore. not sure if that is a concern on the bonnie. This method eventually worked, but I used a LOT of brake fluid that afternoon!

Good luck, and don't give up, you'll need those front brakes... :razz:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To be honest,
I am MOST appreciative for everybody's story of difficulty and their resulting frustration. It only means one thing, with a little creativity, gentle tapping, a handy beer, and an old shoe..... 'PERSISTANCE' will overcome!

I am now better armed to give it another go. All that I had this morning was DOT 3 brake fluid, though it calls for DOT 4. So I'll go out and buy some DOT 4, a bigger jar, and use one of my 'yard work' sneakers..... then attack it again.
Thanks,


:-D
 

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I messed with bleeding my front brakes for about an hour, gave up, drank a six-pack, called two friends, messed with it for another hour with their help (during which another twelve-pack was drank), and then gave up for good. The fifty bucks I gave the local motorcycle shop to get it right was the best $50 I've spent on this bike.
 

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I changed all the fluid in mine and the front took ages and it would still pump up a little. Not much but still not right.
When I got a new front tyre last week I pulled the caliper off. As you know it makes it easier to put the caliper back on if the pads are pushed apart.
Well that fixed it I now have a nice hard lever.
A guy also told me to bleed them backwards with a syringe and a piece of hose push fluid back through the caliper.

Darcy
 

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The air lock is where the banjo attaches the master cylinder as it is the 'high point' in the system. Pump the lever a dozen times, tie the lever to the bar, wrap a rag around the bajo and loosen and tighten it quickly enough to hear the air hiss out, but not long enough to let any in.

Then go back to bleeding the caliper until fluid is clear of bubbles again, then bleed from the banjo connection again by which time you should have a good pressure at the lever.

If you have not already started the job, you can get a banjo bolt with a blee nipple in it.
 

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On 2006-11-12 16:47, FattRat wrote:
I need your help guys.....

A buddy came over to help me bleed my front brake (he knows what he's doing). After a couple hours of fighting it, we can't build any pressure in the brake line, none, zilch, nada!?!?!?!

We got to the point of having no more bubbles passing through our clear plastic hose attached to the bleed screw, but can't build ANY pressure.

HELP! Anybody, ANYTHING!

I have a manual and followed it, but to no avail.

If I can't get a front brake.... I won't be able to roll the bike downhill outa the house and I'll hafta convert it into a coffee table.
Rat... I use a syringe with a piece of tygon tubing attached to pump the fluid up through the caliper/line/reservoir... All I could find was a 5ml one at a pharmacy. But I understand that you can get a 50 ml one from a Vet.. Be sure to suck reservoir out and cover with a rag. Pump fluid slowly in... Even with the small (many fills of syringe) syringe I can flush and bleed the front and rear brakes in about 45 minutes... And it gives a solid lever... :cool:
 

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Fattrat. All great advise on the brakes.I had a Ducati that acted like this. The only way I could bleed the system was to gravity bleed, took about 45 minute. A Good automotive vacuum pump bleeder should do the job perfectively.

Steve Gears and such :yayyy: :chug: :yayyy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Searching the 'Net and chatting with friends has resulted in all of the same advise offered above. It appears as though I may have to buy one of those pumps and bleed from the bottom up.

My lever has ABSOLUTELY NO resistance when I 'pump' it. I even loosened the banjo bolt and couldn't even get much fluid to pump through THAT?!?!?

By God, I'm gonna (try to) beat this!
:hammer:
 

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I have seen small hand operated syphon pumps in auto parts stores. I wonder if it would be possible to hook one up to the bleeder valve and PULL the fluid through.

Just a thought , Rick....................
 

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I just bled my brakes Monday during a Rizoma reservoir install. Here is the method and tool I used, worked like a charm.

Brake Bleeding - Web Bike World
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
In fact I bought a $25.00 pump much like those above.... cheap quality, but I eventually got a seal (on the pump's reservoir) and managed to fight it last night for a couple hours.

I then tied off the brake lever (compressing it tightly) with a bungee cord, letting it sit over night to squeeze whatever air might have remained. This morning it's pretty solid.... I might do the same with the rear brake lever today.

However I spilled, sprayed, and otherwise squirted brake fluid everywhere. I had all the painted body parts covered with lots of towels, but the master cylinder was over-filled at one point and spilled fluid all over it's exterior. I sprayed & wiped it with water, then WD-40, then a spray cleaner/wax. Time will tell.....

Thanks everybody.
 

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Good advice

The air lock is where the banjo attaches the master cylinder as it is the 'high point' in the system. Pump the lever a dozen times, tie the lever to the bar, wrap a rag around the bajo and loosen and tighten it quickly enough to hear the air hiss out, but not long enough to let any in.

Then go back to bleeding the caliper until fluid is clear of bubbles again, then bleed from the banjo connection again by which time you should have a good pressure at the lever.

If you have not already started the job, you can get a banjo bolt with a blee nipple in it.
I went throught the Bonneville brake bleeding nightmare myself lately. The above advice is possibly the best for the peculiar 'zero pressure' phenomenon on new bonnie brakes. It's the difference between a 30 minute job and a 3-4hr one with repetitive pump injury.
 

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I just went through this pain in the arse a while back. The solution? Bleed them till you can't do it any longer then put a rubber band around your brake lever to hold it 3/4 of the way in and go to bed. The next morning, top off the fluid and it's done. Simple and painless provided you have the time. Spent way to look trying to get any lever feel at all and did this as a last resort, it worked perfectly.

Jake
 

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bleeding brakes

i`ve had this problem from time to time on different bikes .when the piston are touching the rotor push them all the way in pump again ,and keep bleeding and repeating this process until the air both risers to the mastercylinder and out of the caliper ,you can also crack the banjo bolts and air will escape there to ,good luck ,tony
 

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I purchased two check valve bleed fittings from New Bonnie,
replaced the fluid in both the front and rear, no air, no problem.
They work OK.
 

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I bought a couple of speed bleeders from NB ages ago, and when bleeding the brakes last week tried to fit them. I only tried to replace the from bleed valve and the NB speed bleeder valve seemed too long. It bottomed out with a few threads still visible above the caliper surface. I've ended up not using them. Anyone have the same problem?
 
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