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Discussion Starter #1
I've been a member sinse 05 and I've been browseing for information when I need it every sense. I appreciate all the great information and I apoligize that I have not posted till now. I usually manage to get by but this time Im going to need help.
I have a 05 speedmaster of my own. But at the moment I'm working on a 03 Americia for my little brother. And as I'm putting it together. I can not get any pedal on the rear brake. I've refilled the Resevoir over ten times. I'm not getting any more air out of the bleeder. And the pedal still goes straight down and bottoms out.
There is no leaks, No lost fluild and its not taking in air. So to keep a long story short. I'm looking for a second opinion. Do I need to replace the piston kit inside the master cylinder? Does anybody have experiance with this?

Thank you,
Mathew Watts
 

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It could be that the m/c piston seal is stuffed, going on what you said that would be my opinion?

Try taking the caliper off [don't disconnect the hose though] and turning and twisting it around then put it back on and see if you get any air, they sometimes trap air in them.

Also try posting in the metric twin forum part?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Fist off I apoligize GrandPaulZ. For placing this post in the wrong forum. Thanks for relocating it. Hopefully it will help another person someday.
As far as my brake issues. I got that one solved. This bike was reassembled by me. After the previous owner disassembled it to get some parts chromed and do some impact repairs. So The master cylinder, Ridgid lines, rubber brake line, and caliper were all bone dry when I started.
I was bleeding these brake by hand with my brothers asistance, then switched to a one man brake bleeding bottle. We bleed them for half hour getting all the air out the would come out of the zert fitting. Once the air stopped comming out and we still had no pedal. Then after more bleeding. We suspected the master cylinder. But the next morning we rented a mity vac and got more air. So I relized the possiblity of still haveing air in the system was likley.
I first bleed the brakes at the bango bolt on top of the master cylinder, then again under the bike and the banjo bolt were the final brake line connect to the rigid line, once more at the caliper, and finally reconnected the mity vac to the zert fitting And we got the pedal a pretty good pedal. So sorry for the long story but the problem was still air in the system.
The pedal still isn't the way I would like it to be. It is solid but there is some travel on the pedal before the pressure is felt. Unlike my 05 speedmaster. And before this bike hits the road that problem will be fixed also. The brake pads are still at 80% or better. If it is still more air in the system, or some freeplay adjustment I don't yet.

Thank you all greatly,
Mathew
 

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Matthew, have you tried speedbleeders? Look them up--I just got a set for my thrux and have used them for my 911. They are absolutely invaluable and the best $20.00 you'll ever spend.

J
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"J" Where did you get the speedbleeders? I asked the guy at the autoparts store and he looked at me like I told him aliens have landed.
 

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I had to bleed the rear brake when I relocated the m/cylinder and reservoir due to the Scrambler mods on my T100. I tried for hours to get a pedal,there was a thread on here with some good advice but still I couldn't get pressure. Ended up borrowing a brake bleeding apparatus from a H D store, two minutes and I was finished. The thing I borrowed plugged into an air line and pushed the fluid through. Chances are that your plumbing is good, just need the right buddy to borrow gear off.
Oh,just saw the time. Merry Christmas.
 

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Brake line air purging

Due to installing handlebar risers on my T100, I had to go to a longer front brake line.
Since this resulted in totally air-filled lines, I used a large syringe with some silicone tubing (model airplane fuel line) connected to the bleeder nipple.
Pulling the brake fluid through from the reservoir does a good job of purging the large volume of air from the system.

As for the speed bleeders; I have them, and IMO, they do NOT work at all!
I tried getting the last bit of firmness in the lever and pedal by depressing them completely with the "speed bleeder" just cracked far enough to allow fluid to flow out. I found that releasing the lever or pedal BEFORE completely closing the "speed bleeder" resulted in air being sucked back into the system.
Ie; the "internal check valves" were NOT working.
So, I do the last bit of bleeding via the old method of applying pressure to the lever or pedal, cracking the bleeder, and closing it again while there is still travel left in the lever or pedal.
I received no instructions of any kind with the "speed bleeders", so if anyone can advise me on any special operating procedure I may be disregarding, fire away!
Bob
 

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"J" Where did you get the speedbleeders? I asked the guy at the autoparts store and he looked at me like I told him aliens have landed.
British Customs. Their site is down now else I'd give you the link..You simply unscrew the old nipples, screw in the new ones--important--make sure you stop when you hit resistance else they'll strip--then you unscrew 1/4 to 1/2 turn , connect a bottle with a hose to it, pump the brakes while you add new fluid (different color helps) until you see it coming into the bottle, screw the bleeder back in and bob's your uncle.

No air can get back into the bleeder with its valve. Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have to go order a new brakeline for the front wheel. And when I get it I'm going to spend more time getting the brakes to 100%. For now I just needed to know the the system works. Before I place an order for parts. The speed bleeder deffinatly sound like an option. But I think I can get this the old fashion way.
 

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I got some good advice of this site regarding replacement of front brakeline and lack of pressure ,it was spot on and cost nothing.FILL YOUR RESEVOIR GET A RUBBERBAND,TIE YOUR LEVER TO YOUR NEW BARS,LEAVE IT OVERNIGHT,PUMP IT THE FOLLOWING DAY [it will come come up]IF ITS STILL SPONGEY,DO IT AGAIN THE FOLLOWING NIGHT:)J.B.
 

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From what I've seen, for every person that likes speed bleeders, there seems to be 4 or 5 with a horror story about them. They come up on nearly every forum involving anything with brakes. The common thread seems to be that: they are great when they work, but they don't work often or consistently. When they don't work as advertised they tend to drive people crazy.
My advice, if you can, get things working without them. Stay away from them until you resolve the problem. They aren't a troubleshooting tool, if your already frustrated, don't add more issues. Once you've fixed everything and it's GTG, then play with new parts.
 

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always check this first

Make sure that your rear brake pedal is actually bottoming out and not just hitting the frame or header. It is really easy to reinstall your brake pedal so that it hits something before it engages. You should get the 2 speed bleeders anyway.

--dfeaster
 

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I was on this forum about a month ago with brake bleed problems, and was told of the rubber band strategy also. So having tried just about every thing else gave it ago and it worked a treat first night.
 

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Speed bleeder

I tried a speed bleeder on the rear caliper, and it bottomed out with threads still showing, something others have reported also. I took it off and successfully bled the system with the MityVac.

When I replace my front brake line in the spring, I'm going to try a banjo bolt with a bleed nipple on it (at the master cylinder), since many report that air needs to be bled at this bolt. You can't do this on the rear brake because the "banjo bolt" is the hydraulic brake light switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Using the mity vac I managed to get enough brake pressure to ride the bike if I wanted to. But the brake pedal has almost one inch of travel before the the brakes ingage. My speedmaster has less than a 1/2". But the brakes on the Americia don't bottom out anymore.
I do not plan on installing the speedbleeders onto the bike. Becuase I need to keep things simple. I suspect I still have some air in the lines becuase I need to bring the pedal up higher. But I'm going to wait untill the front brake line arrives before I focus on bleeding the brakes any farther.
I just ordered a new clutch cable, Front brake cable, The parts to mount my original speedmaster seat, Headlight rim, the headlight retainer spring, and an old style Sealed beam headlight the I should be able to adapt to the headlight to save a $100.oo. And new caburator mains, pilots, and one bowl gasket. I ordered them all from Bikebandit.com. You can ring up a bill pretty fast building a rebuilding a bike. But so far I have about 1600 invested.
 

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I didn't have any need for a speed bleeder or the rubber band overnight trick when I replaced my front brake line yesterday. I spent about 2 hours on it, a lot of which was just me being slow and careful about it (and cleaning up some spilled brake fluid). All I did was squeeze the lever a bunch of times and then alternate opening the bleed valve, squeezing the handle, closing the valve, topping off the fluid in the reservoir - over and over again until pure brake fluid came out. I had a tube attached to the bleed valve with the end submerged in a little bottle part full with brake fluid the whole time. All of that was with the caliper off the disc with the line hanging more or less straight. Then I put everything back together and double-checked the bleeding again to make sure there were no bubbles.

Jeff
 

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Well, I took a few moments to install my speedbleeders and replace the brake fluid--emphasis on "a few moments".

The only, and I mean only, thing that could trip you up is if you overtighten them. They are hard to turn and so it's a little vague where they should stop.

When you hit a hard-to-turn spot, connect the hose and bottle, pump the brake, and see if the fluid pumps out. Keep tightening until, when you pump the brake, the fluid doesn't pump out. And you can def tell when you've hit the end--just know that there will be threads showing on the bleeder when you're all the way in.

No kidding, my front brake took all of 15 minutes, including the time to screw in the new bleeder. Perfect, firm brakes.

I've used them successfully on my car for years and have never had a problem with them--highly recommend you give them a try.
 

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What brake?

G'day all
Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have a similar problem with my 2006 speedmaster.
The rear caliper slide pins were seized and the local bike shop fixed 'em for me and bled the rear system. The pedal seems to have a lot of travel before engaging and seems slightly spongy when I press it down by hand.
So my questions are – how much travel should I expect the pedal to have? (currently about 35 – 40 mm measured from the banjo on m/c to pedal)
How much travel should the piston have in the m/c before pressure is felt? (about 10 mm atm)
I've only just bought the bike and I'm not familiar with what's “normal”. Also I have a knackered right foot with limited up/down movement. I'd like to know what I'm talking about before before I “have a chat” :rolleyes: to the bike shop.
Any input would be welcome ppl and thanks in advance. :)
Crud
 

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Screw Speedbleeders!!! I have nothing but bad experiences with them...and they are multiple experiences off multiple bikes.

Here is what I have been using. The same function of a speedbleeder without the frustration:

Motion Pro Mini Bleeders
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0482/
 
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