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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, over the past few years, I've gotten used to making educated guesses here and there. I'm not real educated on this issue, so I thought I'd ask some random people on the Intarwebs for advice... :D

I've just measured the valve clearances on my RS. 9 of 12 were pretty much in the middle of the range, but 3 were at the loose end of spec. I'm not sure what to do here. Both exhaust valves on #1 are at .3mm, and one of the intakes on #3 is at .2mm.

If this were an 885 mill, I would definitely leave them as-is. Those motors are known for valves getting tighter on occasion, but almost never loosening. With the 955, though, I'm not sure. What's the consensus? Leave 'em as-is 'til the next scheduled check? Or pull the cams, measure the shims, and set them back in the middle somewhere?

Thanks,
-Kit
 

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Kit this may or may not be helpful but my experienced and most technical advice would be...........................

PANIC MAN PANIC:D

Sorry Kit I know it is a serious question I just couldn't help being a goofball:p

Feel free to do the same to me please.

DaveM:cool:
 

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It is my understanding that the valves get tighter. If you have a couple that are looser, then you should be ok. It will take them longer for the seating area to wear, thus losing your gap. When I have to set mine, I plan to set them all on the loose side of the tolerance. That way, I should get more mileage out of the adjustment. Of course, I won't adjust anything until they are out of spec. If it isn't broke.....don't fix it.

---Charlie
 

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There is something to be said for maintaining valve clearances even across the board. The engine will be noticeably smoother in all RPM ranges as clearance effects both valve timing and volumetric efficiency. Of course, it is a bunch of work to measure and record all 12 clearances and then shims and swap stuff around to get them that way. It may even require a couple of cycles of cams off, measure shims, cams back in, measure clearance. Is the small reward worth the effort? Only you can decide.

BTW, once you reset the valves, you will need to resynch the throttle bodies/carbs to account for the above mentioned changes. Might as well throw some new plugs in prior to the synch.

I'm coming up on my 12K soon. I have yet to decide whether to do it myself or have my dealer do the job. I know I'll be more meticulous but haven't figured out if it is worth my time. To be sure, I'll ask for a map of the clearances.
 

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Hi shovelstroked,

the senior tech at my dealer that works on my bikes always shows me his clearance recording map without me asking, he likes to show me what he's done.

I asked once and now he just shows me anyway.:)

DaveM:cool:
 

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I'm used to the shim under bucket system used on most Japnese bikes. Is Triumph using a shim above stem system? If so, I will get the tool, or use the tool from my old K-bike if it fits. MUCH easier to change shims that way for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep. The PO actually threw in the valve tool with the bike, but it hasn't been particularly useful. ;)

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Thats funny, I just checked my valves today @ 23,000+ miles having never even checked 'em until now. All were within spec with 2 intake and 2 exhaust being toward the tight end of the clearance. The rest hit the middle of the spec.

So, I'm impressed. But not looking forward to the next check, but knowing me it won't happen until pushing 50,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Kubbie- You do realize the valve check interval is every 12k miles, right? If 2 of them are on the tight side already, I definitely would not skip 36k check.

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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KitNYC,
Yes I do know I was supposed to check them at 12k, just never did. Blew by it by about 4000 miles before I realized what I'd done. Then I decided to wait til 24k but now that I'm out of work boredom kicked in and made me check it today.

I have all intentions of doing the check @36k.

Just to make sure I don't offend or misguide anyone. I was truely surprised that none were out of spec, because I thought they all would be out due to the long time of no checks. I wasn't trying to tell anyone to ignore the valve train, just that by my experience showed that the valves were holding their clearances.

I had to tell somebody how well it went.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Gotcha. I misread your post and thought you were going to intentionally put it off until 48k. Now I see you were saying that might happen UNintentionally, which I can certainly empathize with... Did I mention I replaced the motor at 24k with a salvage motor? Which had 7k, so (math, math, math) I'm really doing my first valve check at 18k. :eek:

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ralphus- Thanks, that is what I've decided to do. (Not do?)

UKTURFROCKS- Piece of road debris tore a large hole in the sump of the original motor. I don't understand the difference you speak of: your Japanese motor was all in spec at 16k, my British motor is all in spec at 18k... Not much difference, no?

Cheers,
-Kit
 
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