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Discussion Starter #1
I know I've ranted on in the past about how I consider the Booster Plug to be a complete rip-off. I've never claimed it does nothing, but have stated that it makes performance worse, is marketed misleadingly by claiming it's as good as a PCV, and only "remove snatchiness" by making the bike overly rich at low RPM so it's like riding with the choke out.
Well we were fortunate enough to get a Thruxton 1200R with a BoosterPlug in for dyno testing today, so as an experiment we did one run with it fitted and one with it disconnected.
As you can see from the results, not only do you lose power all the way up the curve, but the already-over-rich engine is made horrendously rich, reaching up to 11.8:1 at the upper end, whereas the default gives an already slightly over-rich 12.4:1. Optimal for power is about 13.1:1.
I keep pointing out that these bikes do not ever run lean, but this is the first time I've had a simple A/B test example to demonstrate how unwise it is to fit a BoosterPlug.
This is a bike with a decat and shorties, snorkel removed, but with no ECU mods or PCV.

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This is so not unexpected :cool:. In a perfect world all after-market devices hawked to increase power would have to post Dyno proven effects. Of course poorly engineered exhaust mods are by far the most ubiquitous power-robbing devices folks throw their money away on:unsure:.
 

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I don't think anyone buys a BoosterPlug for better dyno runs or quarter mile times. They do buy it for improved rideability, especially at lower RPMs, and smoother starts, and it does well at that. My understanding is that the BoosterPlug is in effect only during "non stable" states, ie acceleration and deceleration. A dyno run is non-stable, so your results make sense. I have a BoosterPlug on my T120, and it has made a huge rideability improvement. But if I was seeking performance improvement, I'd take it off and install a Power Commander or some other programmable ECU (along with all the other intake and exhaust mods that are typically done).
 

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As part of the install, the directive is to perform the 12 minute tune before riding. When you unplugged the device, did you do so or just threw it on the dyno with the adaptations that were learned with it installed?

I sent an email to boosterplug with a link to this thread, inviting them to join the discussion. Since ya know, they're the ones that designed this thing and know the most about it and how it works.
 

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Update: They responded really fast! Unfortunately due to forum rules they aren't allowed to post here or it would be considered "advertising", but I had a nice discussion with someone at boosterplug who read the initial post. It's too bad they can't post here, they had some very interesting things to say :)
 

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I don't get why anyone would use the booster plug, when the could simply use TuneECU and flash a proper map or tune the bike. There are enough people that have tuned the bike with the most popular mods, and that are willing to share their maps.

Just making the entire map richer, isn't what most motors want... When I installed the Tec cam and x-pipe and desnorkeled my Street Cup, you would think that the bike would run lean, right? Well it was crazy lean up top, running an AFR of around 15. Not good. So if I put in a booster plug, that would richen it up, right?

Well, we also found that I was running an AFR around 11 down low... Using the booster plug to richen the top end, would have me fouling plugs or stalling down low.

If you do the mods, get the $10 TuneECU app and a $30 bluetooth connector and just out the right map in there... If you can't afford dyno time to tune it properly, then leave it stock, IMHO...
 

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Update: They responded really fast! Unfortunately due to forum rules they aren't allowed to post here or it would be considered "advertising", but I had a nice discussion with someone at boosterplug who read the initial post. It's too bad they can't post here, they had some very interesting things to say :)
Nah, they can post information. AJ Cycles, BellaCorse and others post regularly. If a post was solely advertising a sale or something a moderator might take it down. And product posts that aren't motorcycle-related are usually taken down. But BoosterPlug can certainly defend their product here.

And of course @MotoChooch, you could always tell us what they said. Anything worth repeating?
 

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Yeah, I wouldn't imagine that them answering some questions about their product directly would pose any sort of issues. Its quite common on most forums...
 

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I will relay the message.
 

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Thanks for your effort to gather objective evidence and posting it here. For many years I've heard report saying the same but this is the 1st objective measurement I've seen.

Paul
 

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What year was the Thruxton?
 

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And for the record, I don't think anyone is bashing their product. if it works for you, great.

I just don't personally agree with the method used... to just fool the ECU into richening up the entire map... It's rare that an entire map is equally lean, and just adding 8% fuel or whatever across the board will magically fix it... It is more likely to help one part of the rev range, but make worse another part...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@MotoChooch, the information on that page applies to how an ambient air temperature sensor is used by the ECU, and is completely generic to any modern bike.
The only BP specific part is the last bit where it explains how they use a non-linear temp dependent resistor to simulate air being 20° cooler at all ambient temperatures.
So is that what's best for every bike? Ignoring the fact that you don't want it richer in most places, your bike's ECU will choose the fuelling based on ambient air temp and has already been set up to use a non-linear scale at each temperature. What makes you think on a 30° it will run better thinking it's 10°, and on a 5° morning it will run better thinking it's -15°?
All of this is a complete guess, attempting to override the values chosen through hundreds of thousands of dollars of research by the designers. There's no emissions issue here, as it's not idle or cruise, so there can be no claim that it's "to bypass emission restrictions", meaning the modern argument for these is essentially saying "The manufacturers all got it wrong, so our resistor makes everything as it should be" :)

I've attached a photo of a device that does the same thing on carby bikes. Simply insert this high quality 100% stainless steel device below the choke pull, and the finely tuned 1.22mm "spacer" will ensure your bike runs better by increasing the fuel by 3.6% at all times.
These can be purchased from my eBay site for $49.95 (free shipping within Australia, $18.95 to rest of world) :D

716215
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As part of the install, the directive is to perform the 12 minute tune before riding. When you unplugged the device, did you do so or just threw it on the dyno with the adaptations that were learned with it installed?
The 12 minute tune is unrelated to dyno tests. It's an adaptation process used to calibrate the idle stepper on cabled bikes and throttle tube stepper on the fly-by-wires, and it only applies to closed throttle operation.
In the official Triumph Diagnostics software I just click a button and it happens instantly.
 
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@MotoChooch, the information on that page applies to how an ambient air temperature sensor is used by the ECU, and is completely generic to any modern bike.
The only BP specific part is the last bit where it explains how they use a non-linear temp dependent resistor to simulate air being 20° cooler at all ambient temperatures.
So is that what's best for every bike? Ignoring the fact that you don't want it richer in most places, your bike's ECU will choose the fuelling based on ambient air temp and has already been set up to use a non-linear scale at each temperature. What makes you think on a 30° it will run better thinking it's 10°, and on a 5° morning it will run better thinking it's -15°?
All of this is a complete guess, attempting to override the values chosen through hundreds of thousands of dollars of research by the designers. There's no emissions issue here, as it's not idle or cruise, so there can be no claim that it's "to bypass emission restrictions", meaning the modern argument for these is essentially saying "The manufacturers all got it wrong, so our resistor makes everything as it should be" :)

I've attached a photo of a device that does the same thing on carby bikes. Simply insert this high quality 100% stainless steel device below the choke pull, and the finely tuned 1.22mm "spacer" will ensure your bike runs better by increasing the fuel by 3.6% at all times.
These can be purchased from my eBay site for $49.95 (free shipping within Australia, $18.95 to rest of world) :D

View attachment 716215
Epic, on point and funny at the same time. I like it.

I hate to bash their product, but its a poor solution to a problem... Like you said, it's like having the choke pulled out 5%, all the time. Might help at 7000rpm where it is lean, but at 4000rpm at 60% throttle where it was already rich, now it might be too rich.

The irony is that the Booster, costs more than a Bluetooth connector and the TuneECU app, that would allow you to tune the bike properly...
 

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Are
@MotoChooch, the information on that page applies to how an ambient air temperature sensor is used by the ECU, and is completely generic to any modern bike.
The only BP specific part is the last bit where it explains how they use a non-linear temp dependent resistor to simulate air being 20° cooler at all ambient temperatures.
So is that what's best for every bike? Ignoring the fact that you don't want it richer in most places, your bike's ECU will choose the fuelling based on ambient air temp and has already been set up to use a non-linear scale at each temperature. What makes you think on a 30° it will run better thinking it's 10°, and on a 5° morning it will run better thinking it's -15°?
All of this is a complete guess, attempting to override the values chosen through hundreds of thousands of dollars of research by the designers. There's no emissions issue here, as it's not idle or cruise, so there can be no claim that it's "to bypass emission restrictions", meaning the modern argument for these is essentially saying "The manufacturers all got it wrong, so our resistor makes everything as it should be" :)

I've attached a photo of a device that does the same thing on carby bikes. Simply insert this high quality 100% stainless steel device below the choke pull, and the finely tuned 1.22mm "spacer" will ensure your bike runs better by increasing the fuel by 3.6% at all times.
These can be purchased from my eBay site for $49.95 (free shipping within Australia, $18.95 to rest of world) :D

View attachment 716215
Can I get 2?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The irony is that the Booster, costs more than a Bluetooth connector and the TuneECU app, that would allow you to tune the bike properly...
And what's even worse is that the component to do this costs 4 cents : US $0.42 13% OFF|10PCS 10K OHM NTC Thermistor Resistor NTC MF52AT 10K +/ 1%-in Resistors from Electronic Components & Supplies on AliExpress
Just stick one of these in series with the pink wire on your AIT sensor and you have functionality identical to the BP.
 

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I've attached a photo of a device that does the same thing on carby bikes. Simply insert this high quality 100% stainless steel device below the choke pull, and the finely tuned 1.22mm "spacer" will ensure your bike runs better by increasing the fuel by 3.6% at all times.
These can be purchased from my eBay site for $49.95 (free shipping within Australia, $18.95 to rest of world) :D

View attachment 716215
Not enough scientific hype, too obvious what it does.

I think this is the carby analog of the BoosterPlug: Thunder Products Dial-A-Jet

Just squirts some extra gas into your carb's air flow, richening it. I mean, not "just", there is science involved.
 
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