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There were 4 - 5 happy with the result in the last week. You just failed to spot those.
Not really. I'm well aware that removing the AI can make things a little smoother. So does tensioning the chain and throttle cables. But that doesn't solve the problem, merely treats the symptoms. But whatever floats your boat. You have failed to spot the majority who have had real results by O2 elimination.

There is no rhyme nor reason as it varies within bikes of the same model year, rider experience, etc.
So in the above, what you are really saying is, that a rider with something like 40 years experience, for example, makes the throttle snatchy by how they ride? Also, there is rhyme and reason for everything.

"Cure" is harder to judge.
No its not, a cure is a permanent fix, where the problem is gone completely. Anything else is just a partial fix, so if your throttle still jerks, even slightly, then you haven't 'cured' it by plugging the AI, have you?

I'm sure YOUR bike is quite happy with TTP. No doubt mine "could" run better. If I lost any more engine braking though..., I'd be really "cheesed". And when I'm feeling like a hooligan, I take the 796. My T-100 is my relaxed, torquey "standard", not that it can't be ridden briskly. Unlike my 796, it can be left in 4th or 5th for fast "B road" and be satisfying. YMMV and obviously has. ;)
Please explain (I feel a little thick here) what my TTP tune, a 796 and your tastes in hooliganism have to do with fixing a jerky throttle? Try as I might, no connection is forming. Or are you saying that you need a TTP tune to disable the O2 sensors? Or a 796 perhaps? I don't know I'm stumped.
 

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To the OP - While corking the hose and airbox side of the AI is enough to disable, you'll want to actually remove the O2 sensors from the headers. Even turning them 'off' in TuneECU I think only disables the check engine light for them, and if you do that and unplug them they can get fouled. (they need the heaters running to operate correctly). You can certainly just unplug them to try it out, but long term you'll want to get plugs and remove them if you want the option of going back to stock and not having to replace the sensors.

I've removed O2 sensors and disabled AIS on my bonneville, and while it made the low speed snatchy throttle better, it didn't 'cure' it. A combination of the things folks have previously said will all help and doing them all is probably as best as it'll get. Then just learning to really ease into the throttle when in low gears will be the final part of it IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sadly, blocking the AI pipe made no noticeable difference :( next to try temp disconnect of o2 sensors.....
 

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Sadly, blocking the AI pipe made no noticeable difference :( next to try temp disconnect of o2 sensors.....
You can also try switching to a 19t front sprocket. I've done that on both of my twins more for the improved ride at highway speed, but the "tradeoff" is a little less torque in low gears. But given the snatchiness of the EFI bikes in low gear, that actually ends up being an added benefit. You won't be drag racing any superbikes off a red light, but you'll probably like the ride better.
 

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Next I spoke to Mike at TTP and he said turn off the AI on O2 in the ECU using 'Tuneecu'
as it is better than the resistors etc.

Next I got the Breath bell mouth to replace the snorkel and a K&N filter for the air box,
I did this because I wanted to use the new map from TTP and if you do not do the mod it runs too rich..

with these changes it is like a new bike honestly.
Chris; are you riding a 2014?
 

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Hi S Mack
I have a late 2013 basic Bonneville.
I tried all the stuff listed in this thread but the only solution is the removal of the O2 sensors and a new map from Mike at TTP.
It totally transforms the ride and I am 100percent happy with it.

The least involved route it the Breathe Bell mouth and O2 ,AI removed and Map 1 from TTP. It is quick and easy to do but it does bu**er your warranty so bear that in mind.

Chris
 

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Reading this thread with interest. My bike is a 2010 mag wheel that I bought used last May from the local dealer. It has BC Predators and AI is removed. It is stock other than that and the dealer told me that it is running the Arrow 2into2 Map. The bike runs very well but the low throttle response seemed noticeably "jerky" when I first got the bike. Either the bike got better or I got used to it because I don't notice it nearly as much now four months later. Throttle is smooth from idle to red line pulling from a stop. There is still some low speed lack of smoothness on the throttle noticeable when decelerating going into a slow turn. It only bothers me if I think about it, so maybe I am getting used to it!

So the question is, do I remove the O2 sensors and see if it gets better yet or ride on as is?
 

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Hi S Mack
I have a late 2013 basic Bonneville.
I tried all the stuff listed in this thread but the only solution is the removal of the O2 sensors and a new map from Mike at TTP.
It totally transforms the ride and I am 100percent happy with it.

The least involved route it the Breathe Bell mouth and O2 ,AI removed and Map 1 from TTP. It is quick and easy to do but it does bu**er your warranty so bear that in mind.

Chris
Thanks Chris. I think I'm going with TTP's Bellmouth, restrictor removed, O2 and remap. Seems like a great mix. It's all reversible and the dealer would have to prove those changes caused any warranty issue, so I'm ok with rolling the dice.

Just doing the AI removal, chopping the snorkel and putting on the NH pipes has improved the ride smoothness and torque.
 

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As if you need one more echo, I too noticed improvement after AI removal but it is nowhere near a fix. Not even a big improvement really. At low speeds I have developed the habit of more throttle and a lot of clutch feathering. It isn't ideal but operation is much, much smoother. They taught liberal use of the clutch during slow speed maneuvers in the MSF course I was in several years ago so it seemed kind of natural after a short time.
 

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As if you need one more echo, I too noticed improvement after AI removal but it is nowhere near a fix. Not even a big improvement really. At low speeds I have developed the habit of more throttle and a lot of clutch feathering. It isn't ideal but operation is much, much smoother. They taught liberal use of the clutch during slow speed maneuvers in the MSF course I was in several years ago so it seemed kind of natural after a short time.
Clutch plates are cheap and easy to replace. I've never understood people worrying about burning up clutches. I feather my clutch a lot, even in higher gears. Whatever gives you a smooth ride.
 

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get a good model

Get a 2014 model* and never experience a bad snatch again, ever.

* - many will prefer a female in the age range of 21 to 25 years old :p:D
 

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Destroying the secondary air injection (SAI a/k/a AI) definitely smoothed up the throttle response at low RPM for me. It also helped that I just had a full tune up and valve job but that may not be required for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I spoke to the local triumph workshop and they had a good idea. They suggested I bring it in and the upload latest software to my ecu. There may be bug fixes in the latest versions just like a PC. :)
 

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Destroying the secondary air injection (SAI a/k/a AI) definitely smoothed up the throttle response at low RPM for me. It also helped that I just had a full tune up and valve job but that may not be required for you.
"Valve job"??? :D:D:D
 

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I suffer from the same jerkiness and compared it with literally pulling the front brake. Its frustrating when your bike always wants to gear up, and by 40 to 50 km/hr I'm in 4th gear. I would remove everything that you fine folks say causes this,but bye bye warranty I think.
 
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