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I have an '09 Mag Wheel Bonnie with around 40,000 miles. When I first get on the bike after it's been sitting a while, the front doesn't immediately go down from my weight, but does just a moment later. I'm planning a fork oil change, as well as the installation of progressive springs, and was wondering what, if any, parts I should look at replacing while the forks are off the bike. The current fork oil has about 30K miles on it (I had a leaking seal at 10K and had a dealer replace the seals), and I was thinking that replacing it might be all I need to do.
Thanks in advance.
-Sparky
 

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It sounds like a misalignment.
Loosen the front axle nut and the pinch bolt on the lower fork.push and pull on the fork legs and push down on the forks.
Tighten the axle nut then the pinch bolt. It might be binding
 

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It sounds like a misalignment.
Loosen the front axle nut and the pinch bolt on the lower fork.push and pull on the fork legs and push down on the forks.
Tighten the axle nut then the pinch bolt. It might be binding
Aren't you suppose to loosen the upper yoke and pinch bolts too?
 

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I suspect the fork legs are pinched together.
It happens if the axle is tightened in the wrong sequence and often even if done properly. That is why I suggest forcing the fork legs in and out to center them. I had a similar problem and that's how I fixed it
 

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There's a strict procedure that must be followed when replacing the front wheel:

1.- Fit washer and nut to the spindle and hand tighten

2.- Slide the caliper into position ensuring the pads pass either side of the disc and tighten fixing bolts to 28Nm.

3.- Operate front brake a few times to ensure pads are in firm contact with the disc.

4.- Lower the bike to the ground and park on the side stand.

5.- For models with cable driven speedometer: Ensure the drive tag is tight against the rear of the lug on the left fork.

6.- Tighten spindle nut to 60Nm

7.-For models with cable driven speedometer: Reconnect cable to the speedometer drive and tighten the securing screw.

8.- Pump the front forks a few times to settle them in position and finally tighten the spindle clamp bolt to 27Nm.
 

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No, your tubes would only pop out the top, if your not careful you could have a motor resting on your front guard.
I thought you need to align the top Yoke with lower one by loosening the middle nut on top yoke and loosen the lower yoke pinch bolts only? How would your describe the procedure for alignment of the forks? I was always confused with what to undo on the top yoke. It will help if you give a bit descriptive points for doing it.
 

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This is what I did to align my forks -

Bike on centre stand, straighten steering to face forward.Loosen axle nut, pinch bolt, caliper mounting bolts, mudguard, headlamp mounting bracket(after market),lower yoke and steering stem nut.

Carefully get on bike place hands on front of tank and push straight down, not in direction of forks, several times quite sharply and forcefully.

Carefully get of bike without touching or moving front end. Starting at the steering stem work back down nipping up all the loosed bolts without moving the bars or forks, then go back up and torque bolts up. torque axle nut then pinch bolt , pump bake lever. Re check everything and you should be good to go.:thumbsup

Don't think I have missed anything but I'm sure someone will have some criticism. :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, all!
I've R&Rd the front wheel countless times and never had this issue. That doesn't mean that the last time, I didn't let the forks align prior to tightening the spindle clamp. I'll loosen it up, pump the front end a bunch, tighten it up, and see what happens. Regardless, I'm renewing the fork oil next weekend, so between the two ought to be okay.
I'll post my results and further thanks.
-Sparky
 

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You might be happier with Intiminators (and stock springs) in the forks instead of stiffer progressive springs. If you go that route, use the 5W Amsoil fork oil that they recommend.
 

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This is what I did to align my forks -

Bike on centre stand, straighten steering to face forward.Loosen axle nut, pinch bolt, caliper mounting bolts, mudguard, headlamp mounting bracket(after market),lower yoke and steering stem nut.

Carefully get on bike place hands on front of tank and push straight down, not in direction of forks, several times quite sharply and forcefully.

Carefully get of bike without touching or moving front end. Starting at the steering stem work back down nipping up all the loosed bolts without moving the bars or forks, then go back up and torque bolts up. torque axle nut then pinch bolt , pump bake lever. Re check everything and you should be good to go.:thumbsup

Don't think I have missed anything but I'm sure someone will have some criticism. :wink2:
:thumb Followed your procedure and I must say you are spot on. Thanks! But there is a caveat to above and just one thing needs to be added to the procedure. *Place something under the rear wheel so you don't have a bounce while trying to push the tank down. As when it bounces, your front gets all messed up and you end up doing it again and again..
 

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Hi SSR

Glad it worked for you as well as it does for me.

Thanks for the feed back

Jon
 
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