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I purchased my very first motorcycle, a 2012 Bonneville and I want to connect a GPS to the handlebars.
I removed the tank and located the aux connector.
The keys are not in the ignition and I metered the connector and got 12 volts.
I assumed this connector would be switched.
This means that I would have to remember to physically turn off the GPS every time I turn off the bike.
Even with the GPS turned off, it would still be charging.
What do you guys do?
Have you ever forgot to turn of the device and found a dead battery the next time you wanted to ride?
Sometimes my bike sits in the garage for a couple of weeks.
Should I hook up a switch?
Any comments are welcome.
Thanks.
 

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I just unplug the GPS. The upside to the aux power outlet is that you can now easily hook up a battery tender to keep your battery fully charged during those long periods between rides.
 

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Locate the wire that feeds the little parking or position lamp in the headlight and tap into that. This is switched. It has a further advantage in that you can use the GPS by turning the ignition switch to the P (Park) position. This will only energise the front and rear position lights (+ the GPS), and you can fiddle with the GPS without having the rest of the electrics working.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Locate the wire that feeds the little parking or position lamp in the headlight and tap into that. This is switched. It has a further advantage in that you can use the GPS by turning the ignition switch to the P (Park) position. This will only energise the front and rear position lights (+ the GPS), and you can fiddle with the GPS without having the rest of the electrics working.
Thanks Forchetto, you are the best !!!
That makes perfect sense.
I think I am going to do exactly what you said, put a battery tender on the aux connector and tap into the parking light for the GPS.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey Forchetto...
The wire for the parking lamp in the headlight assembly is very tiny.
Do you think it would be safe enough to power the cigarette lighter power plug for the garmin Nuvi GPS by itself, or should I add a relay activated by that wire and feeding the aux power wire to the power plug through the main contacts of the relay.
 

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Those GPS devices have very low power consumption so I can't see any problem.

I have my Motopart heated grips running from that wire. They are around 25 watts, just over 1.5 amps. No problems experienced for 3 Winters.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Those GPS devices have very low power consumption so I can't see any problem.

I have my Motopart heated grips running from that wire. They are around 25 watts, just over 1.5 amps. No problems experienced for 3 Winters.
That's good enough for me.
Thanks
 

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Holy thread revival! But my question is relevant here. I already have a powered USB socket tapped into the front parking light wiring as noted above. If I want to add a second switched USB power socket at the back of the bike (don't ask why!), I should be able to just tap into the yellow and black wires entering the rear light connection socket, correct? I'm 99% sure this yellow wire ties into the same park light circuit. Can someone verify this assumption?
 

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Locate the wire that feeds the little parking or position lamp in the headlight and tap into that. This is switched. It has a further advantage in that you can use the GPS by turning the ignition switch to the P (Park) position. This will only energise the front and rear position lights (+ the GPS), and you can fiddle with the GPS without having the rest of the electrics working.
I have my Motopart heated grips running from that wire. They are around 25 watts, just over 1.5 amps. No problems experienced for 3 Winters.
Last night I tapped into the tail lamp to splice in a set of Yamaha running lights and a Matchless Clueless LED light board. The running lights are currently using OEM 1157 dual-filament incandescents but I have ordered these dual-intensity LEDs as replacements:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-45-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit-car/814/#/tab/Specifications

I tapped into this feed not knowing it was part of the same circuit as the front position/parking lamp. This popped up in this morning's browsing:

http://www.telecable.es/personales/vacas/triumph/LCD/Wiring Bonneville LCD speedo_small.jpg

I would like to use this switched circuit to power a set of identical running lights up front, a Garmin Zumo 660, and a dual-socket 12V accessory plug to power/charge an iPhone, mp3 player, and a large LED flashlight.

Think it can handle the draw of all these things running simultaneously? Both sets of running lamps will start out as incandescents but will be switched to LEDs as soon as I receive them. As stated, the tail light has already been changed to LED and I will probably swap in an LED parking light as well.
 

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Think it can handle the draw of all these things running simultaneously? Both sets of running lamps will start out as incandescents but will be switched to LEDs as soon as I receive them. As stated, the tail light has already been changed to LED and I will probably swap in an LED parking light as well.
The fuse would have to be uprated but I wouldn't do it as the wiring for that circuit is very thin gauge and could lead to overheating at worst and large voltage drops at best.
 

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The fuse would have to be uprated but I wouldn't do it as the wiring for that circuit is very thin gauge and could lead to overheating at worst and large voltage drops at best.
Suggestions, then, for running all of these accessories on a switched circuit?

At the very least, do you believe this circuit can handle both sets of running lamps?
 

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I took the "running lamps" to be some sort of spotlights. If they're only the sort that are integrated into the flasher lamps then it'll be OK to use that circuit, specially once you convert them to LEDS.

I don't know how much the flashlight thing draws though, you might have to install a slightly larger fuse in position number 8. It's 5 amp now.
 

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I took the "running lamps" to be some sort of spotlights. If they're only the sort that are integrated into the flasher lamps then it'll be OK to use that circuit, specially once you convert them to LEDS.

I don't know how much the flashlight thing draws though, you might have to install a slightly larger fuse in position number 8. It's 5 amp now.
Hopefully it doesn't draw much, but I really have no idea:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-watt-led-rechargeable-cordless-spotlight-61777.html

Best bang for the buck out there, though. Ten bucks, about a week's worth of intermittent use per charge, and bright as hell. I want to take it with me later this month on my cross-country road trip in case I have to set up camp in the dark.
 

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Is there any good reason not to tap into the low beam headlight circuit?

I already have the rear running lights, GPS, and accessory socket tapped into the yellow-wire position light circuit. All of the running lights are LED, but I thought perhaps I should tap into the headlight for the fronts just to take some of the heat off that tiny yellow wire. The headlight wire(s) are of a heavier gauge. With the headlight bucket open, I have equal access to either circuit.

As soon as it arrives, I am installing this Cree/Rev2 LED in place of the OEM halogen headlamp. It uses less than half the power of the original H4 so I imagine there would be plenty of juice left to power the running lamps.

I believe the position light circuit is protected by a 5amp fuse; the headlight uses a 10amp fuse.
 
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