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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a 96 t-bird that has started blowing the fan indicators fuse. when it does the turn signals brake lights low beam and instumaent lights go out the high beam and emergency lights still work. i have not found any grounded or exposed wires. any ideas. thanks.
 

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Very recently I had the same problem with my 98 TBS. I was on an extended trip through New England and lost my turn signals when I hit traffic entering Boston.

The fan circuit and the turn signals share the same fuse on the TBS and the fuse was blowing whenever the thermostatic switch closed to activate the cooling fan. I had no problem in cool weather or when there was airflow over the engine, but as soon as the temperature was high enough the switch would activate and the fuse would blow.

The problem was a siezed cooling fan motor. The fix was a new cooling fan which cost over $200 from the dealer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it blew last night as i was putting it in the building for the night and it had not been run in 8 hours. all can think is there mat be something in the headlight housing chaffed, but then again last night it happened when i applied the rear brakes, maybe the switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i changed handle bars 6 weeks ago so i checked the switches to make sure everything is ok, i checked all the wires in the headlight housing it's ok' don't see any corrosion or anything around the fuse block, i guess i need to check the fan switch any idea how to do that. i also need to check the fan motor it's been to cold for it to kick on.

[ This message was edited by: sandblaster on 2006-11-04 18:21 ]
 
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I am having the same issue on my 96 Tbird.

Can't say I checked every wire mentioned for corrosion etc but will need to consider changing out the Fan motor as noted.

Thanks to all for the info!
 

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Preface: I've studied the schematics in the Triumph shop manual and the Haynes manual for the Classics models and could not come up with a reason for the symptoms described.

The schematic in both manuals is for a European version with a headlight switch.

There have been a minimum of two European versions of the Classics wiring harness and neither schematic in my manuals is identified as an earlier or later version.

Mutato is a 2000 US model with the later version harness and no headlight switch.

Testing: I removed the fuses, one at a time, from my bike to try and duplicate the symptoms.

With the fan/turn signal fuse removed, both emergency flashers and turn signals were disabled. All other lighting circuits worked normally.

With the tail/stop light fuse removed, the flashers/signals functioned normally but the instrument illumination circuit was inoperative. All other lighting circuits worked normally.

The symptoms described in the original post could not be duplicated.

Conclusions: The symptoms described are associated with an early wiring harness version and probably only with a US version.

The failure of the fan fuse is probably the result of a defective fan or the installation of a 10 Amp fuse instead of a 15 Amp fuse in the #4 fuse position.

Hypothesis: There is a miswire in the right handgrip connector such that the jumpers used to bypass the Euopean headlight switch are either cross-connected or shorted to each other in such a way that power is being transferred from one circuit to the other. The behavior described in the frst post of this thread would seem to indicate this.

According to the schematic in the shop manual, it appears that on the US version there should be a jumper from pin 3 to pin 1 and a second jumper from pin 8 to pin 6 of the connector.

It should be possible to verify this by swapping in a later model grip and switch assembly.


I cannot verify the jumper configuration on my 2000 model at this time.

Jim

[ This message was edited by: jimmyj900 on 2006-11-05 13:46 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i have tried all the lights hi/lo beam, turn signals , flash to pass,front and rear brakes( thought the rear light adjustment was to tight but the switch is not working at all) let the bike sit at idle till fan kicked on it's ok, i cannot make the fuse blow doing any of it. could the brake light switch be causing the fuse to blow? the left bulb seems brighter than the right till i hit the front brake then it is just as bright. if the rear switch is stuck on it could cause too much draw as i'm riding. do the front and rear brake switches work the bulbs individually?
 

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could the brake light switch be causing the fuse to blow? the left bulb seems brighter than the right till i hit the front brake then it is just as bright. if the rear switch is stuck on it could cause too much draw as i'm riding. do the front and rear brake switches work the bulbs individually?
The brake light bulbs are wired in parallel to the front and rear switches so both switches should have the same effect.

If one bulb seems brighter with the rear brake switch then it probably means that the switch is bad (resistive) and one bulb just lights up with less voltage than the other.

If the bike is miswired in the way I suspect, then it's kind of difficult to determine how much current goes to which fuse.

The way a properly sized fuse works is that it's in a constant state of near failure -- always on the edge of blowing out -- so it doesn't take much to pop it.

If the bike has been working fine for years and has suddenly developed this problem, then you've got an intermittant short somewhere.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i'm dumbfounded i went for a ride today to see if i could tell what was making the fuse blow found out that it does it when i'm accelerating from a stop. the low beam, taillight, brake lights, and guage lights go out. it was 60 degrees so the fan did not need to kick on. i need to get this fixed, toy run is saturday would like to take the thunderbird instead of the harley. any suggestions.
 

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I would start unplugging things to rule them out.
start with the fan, and then work you way through the other things.
When you get to something you unplug and the fuse stops blowing plug everything else back in. Leave that one thing unplugged and see if the fuse blows.

Good luck.


.
 

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i'm dumbfounded i went for a ride today to see if i could tell what was making the fuse blow found out that it does it when i'm accelerating from a stop.
This just gets wierder.

Well, something is flopping around.

Pull the left side cover and check for a wire or cable hanging around the shock or suspension and also check the wire feed thru(s) in the rear fender. If the grommet in the fender has shifted a wire could be shorting there.

Check the wiring in the headlight shell. There are steel straps in there to hold the wiring in place and if the wiring is shifting under acceleration one could have sawn through the insulation.

Best guess for today....

Jim
 

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a cheap solution to try is change the light bulbs. you said that one of the tail light bulbs was brighter. in some instances a filliment inside a double filliment bulb will break. usually you lose that lighting source but sometimes the filliment will cross connect to the other filliment in the same bulb with the result of you makers powering your brake filliment when you not actually using the break. when you do use the brake the extra power is sent back through the marker light wires and can cause a issue that appears as a power short. some closed circuits can produce grounds when power is applyed from the reverse end of the application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well after much searching and head scratching i think i have solved the fuse blowing problem. the side light as triumph calls it, the small bulb under the halogen headlight bulb has a short and is grounding to the headlight housing, so i took the small harness to it loose and everything seems good so far.
 
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