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Discussion Starter #1
With the ignition on, I don't get any response when I hit the starter button; I put the battery on trickle charge, and just now hooked up a multi-meter to the posts and read over 12V, I've replaced the 15A and 30A fuses that protect the ignition and starter circuits, and I've cleaned up and reseated the spade connectors on the starter solenoid, and I still don't get squat. The idiot lights and headlamp come on just fine, but when I hit the starter, I don't get a click, hum, nothing. Is there any easy way to test the starter solenoid? Is there something else I can troubleshoot?

Thanks. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just cleaned the plunger with kerosene, and then sprayed the whole thing with PB blaster, and then swung the stand up and down, still no response, then again, the thing might still be bad. I also tried starting with the clutch engaged, still nothing. Pissed off is only the start.
 

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Check the ground wire from battery, both ends. And the kill switch

[ This message was edited by: jojje1963 on 2006-12-10 13:07 ]
 

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Have you checked the battery connections? Clean & seal & tighten them anyway just to be sure. This needs to be done anyway. You should have 12 volts at the solenoid when pushing the button. The 2 large terminals should have battery voltage on one side & the other side goes to the starter. Jumper over them. Just be sure you are in neutral. The starter should crank. This tells you if the problem is up circuit or down circuit. Also check kill switch to be sure it is turned on. If the neutral light is on, it is on. Last resort, put it in 3rd gear & push it down a hill.
 

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With the igntion off, jump the two large terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver or bolt. If the starter spins, good. If not, then check the battery terminals. Now remove the small black wire from the B1 terminal and hook a voltmeter to it, or a bulb. Push the starter button and you should get voltage. If not, go to the alarm control unit, then the kill switch, then the ignition switch. If you do get power when you push the button, check the other black wire on the solenoid, the ground wire on the B2 terminal. Do a continuity test to ground. If you have continuity, good, if not, then ground that terminal and test by pushing the button, with the B1 wire reinstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the suggestions, the battery connections themselves are clean, I verified this when I pulled the battery off last night to trickle charge. Also, I did clean the post connections on the starter solenoid, I'll double-check the voltage across the posts. The bike ran fine up through thursday afternoon, I first tried cranking over yesterday morning. It did this once before about a month ago; that time I did take apart the right handlebar grip, the wiring around the starter button and kill switch did look ok as far as I could tell, but it wouldn't be hard to re-verify this. Thanks again for the suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, checked the ground connections on both ends; battery side is tight and immaculate, the engine side has a rock-solid connection, and visually seems to be about as clean as you can expect, considering it's location. I jumpered across the solenoid posts twice (maybe shouldn't have used kerosene to clean the posts) with the key turned off, and both times the engine cranked, still no response of any kind with the starter button. I need to re-read the previous posts, but what next?

Thanks everyone :)
 

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go to the nearest auto-parts store and buy a push button starter switch so you can bypass the switch in the control housing. I believe they are like $6. It's a easy way to troubleshoot the switch and it's cheap.

Greg
 

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I'm the worst (getting better, slightly) with electrical problems. There's one component I didn't see mentioned in this thread. Is there any chance it is the starter relay?

It's possible all the tests you asked Mike to perform would have already checked for this. I have had them fail on BMWs, and the symptoms are similar. Just a thought. Good luck Mike.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did trace out the starter relay in the service manual, I know the count and color of wires going into it, but haven't yet found it. I just found the alarm connector (12 black wires), when I find the relay, I'll give it a once-over too. On a side note, found the stock accessory plug (purple wire and black wire) is that good for anything useful, like a heated garment?

Thanks!
 

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On 2006-12-10 15:35, RoundSlide wrote:
I did trace out the starter relay in the service manual, I know the count and color of wires going into it, but haven't yet found it. I just found the alarm connector (12 black wires), when I find the relay, I'll give it a once-over too. On a side note, found the stock accessory plug (purple wire and black wire) is that good for anything useful, like a heated garment?

Thanks!
There's two connectors under the tank .... I cannot remember what color wires goes to each ... one is unswitched, which is the one you'd want to use with the Triumph Accessory plug, for plugging in things like electric vests Battery Tenders.

The switched one is good for things like heated grips. Using it, you cannot forget and leave the grips on and run down your battery.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok, I'll confess that I wasn't completely sure where to hook up the multi-meter on the alarm connector, all I know is, the thing has a blank plug with 4 wire ports jumpered to each other. When the key is turned on, and the blank plug is in place, the idiot lights and headlamp come on, when the blank plug is removed, everything shuts off, so I'm assuming that it's doing what it needs to do, but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

I measured across the starter button, and it reads the same voltage as the battery terminals do, whether or not the button is being depressed. When I measure the kill switch, it only reads voltage when the switch is in the "off" position, it doesn't read anything when the switch is in the "on" position, and this is the same, whether or not the starter button is depressed. Does this mean that the kill switch is bad???
 

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I already forgot if this was covered but one of the pull-in coil wires at the starter solenoid is grounded. The black & white. So if you supply battery voltage with a jumper wire to the other side the solenoid, it should "pull-in" & supply voltage to the starter which will then turn. Get a jumper wire & connect it to the brown solenoid terminal & then touch the positive post of the battery. That will show if the starter solenoid is good or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm sorry, but with absolutely no disrepect intended, I'm not following you on there :???: The solenoid has four connections, two posts with a nut, and two spade connectors, and both of the spade connections have all-black wiring. Looking at the main circuit diagram in the service manual, the B (spade) connection on the starter side of the solenoid connects directly to the # 5 port on the Alarm connector. The B (spade) connection on the battery side of the solenoid ties in with some kind of inline electrical gizmo (maybe a fuse or diode???) that in turn runs back to the negative terminal of the battery. Another leg of that battery side spade connection continues on to the rectifier, and also up to the carburetor thermostat switch, carb heaters, and vent valves, none of which are applicable to my CRS carbs. To say that I'm confused about this whole deal would be an understatement. :???:
 

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On 2006-12-10 16:20, RoundSlide wrote:
When I measure the kill switch, it only reads voltage when the switch is in the "off" position, it doesn't read anything when the switch is in the "on" position, and this is the same, whether or not the starter button is depressed. Does this mean that the kill switch is bad???
It's working. In the "on" position you should read no voltage drop. In the "off" position the circuit is opened and you'll read 12 volts (When the key is in the on position).

[ This message was edited by: rwright on 2006-12-11 00:25 ]
 

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On 2006-12-10 16:20, RoundSlide wrote:
ok, I'll confess that I wasn't completely sure where to hook up the multi-meter on the alarm connector, all I know is, the thing has a blank plug with 4 wire ports jumpered to each other. When the key is turned on, and the blank plug is in place, the idiot lights and headlamp come on, when the blank plug is removed, everything shuts off, so I'm assuming that it's doing what it needs to do, but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Mike,
Since the instrument lights are coming on that says the link between ports 2 and 1 is okay. Check the link between ports 3 and 5 using a resistance scale on the meter. Should be zero.

Do an ohms test on the Starter Button. Remove the switch housing from the right grip - you'll see the back of the button. Set the meter to any Ohms scale and touch both the connections. With the button depressed you should get zero Ohms, with the button out you should get an open circuit (infinite ohms). While you're there visually inspect the wiring to make sure it's not grounding out against the metal grip clamp or bar.

[ This message was edited by: rwright on 2006-12-11 01:04 ]
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Rdub, thanks for your inputs; when I pulled the right grip apart, the wiring looked ok, as did the solder connections on the button and kill switch, I will try to carry out the resistance check on the button sometime today or tomorrow. Ditto with those jumpered connections on the alarm connector plug. I also still need to find the dang starter relay, you wouldn't think it'd be hard to find (it's probably right in front of my face) but I've yet to find the dang thing. I also want to separate that inline gizmo that runs to the negative terminal, that happens to be right in between my pod filters.

Thanks again!
 
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