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Discussion Starter #1
`99 Adventurer, I was buzzin' down the freeway about 75MPH 5K RPM and when I exited and began to slow down the motor died at about 30 MPH.
I pulled in the clutch and the engine which was had come to a stop backfired twice (once from each pipe.
After about ten seconds I hit the start button and it took off and ran well ever since (about 35 miles). Any ideas? It was scary I'll say that!!
 

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I had that same problem to, on the freeway to,with my Thunderbird.
I was thinking on vapour look ( gas-cap) in the fuel hose.yes then you have backfired.
The engine was stop about ten second, the fuel was coming, no vacuum, fuel hose come on with fuel, and starts again.

My solution was shorten making of the fuel hose and remove the non return valve, from the fuel tank.(when it is on your adventurer to)

When you remove this, the only thing jou have, is a little bit of fumes for a short time when you stop the bike. When the engine is hot.

It can by your problem to, I do not say it is.

But i had the same symptom only 1 time.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think that's the tip over valve you're talking about and I don't have one.
One person thought that maybe while I was decelerating that I flooded the engine enough to make it stall. I can't imagine all three cylinders flooding at once though.
 

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carburetor problem

I have had this problem with my 95Tbird. Riding down the freeway and and all of a sudden the engine is running at low power, as if running out of gas. Stop, turn off engine, wait 30 seconds, then start engine and all is fine. This was happening once every 3-6 months. I think it is a fuel delivery problem! Realized that if I leave the petcock on reserve, it now happens less frequently (once a year).
 

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I have a completely different basis for a similar problem; the complete shutdown of my motor and all electrics. Its not as readily noticeable on the highway that the lights are out, too, unless it happens in the evening. Triumph's wire junctions are not particularly waterproof. I pulled apart each junction, cleaned them up and added dialectic grease and the intermittent shutting off no longer occurred. Until then I thought it was coils, ignition, all sorts of stuff. Go for the easy repairs first.

Good luck. Intermittent problems are the worst.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Makes sense because I had just washed it and had to clean the low oil pressure connection at the sensor right afterward. I don't quite get the two huge backfires though.
It has stalled at a stop once or twice since then though.
 

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It could be the ignition sensor. as the symptoms are cuttingout/backfiring/flames out of exhaust. Bike will run prfectly when cold and then the engine stops when warm. This is a cheap part to replace. It is located in the RH engine case and has a wire coming out of the casing at the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
One other thing I've just noticed that's started happening is that the pointer on the tach starts to twitch about 2-4 hundred RPM at the moment it hits 5K rpm below that it's steady.
 

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Sounds similar in symptoms to my current problem.

First, a coil went. Replaced coil. Misfire on another cylinder. Replace all coils. And spark plugs. Add Redex to the fuel to clean things out a bit.

Still not right. Misfire when given throttle-so much so that the engine can die. And it usually dies when I'm coasting to a stop.

Next, I'll clean the gauze on the fuel filter and do what triumphJan suggests-get rid of the non-return valve.

Strangely, if I turn the ignition on and off, or the kill switch on and off, it r4starts straight away.

I'm beginning to think ECU. Ouch.
 

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It could be the ignition sensor. as the symptoms are cuttingout/backfiring/flames out of exhaust. Bike will run prfectly when cold and then the engine stops when warm. This is a cheap part to replace. It is located in the RH engine case and has a wire coming out of the casing at the top.
I had the same problem on my 1995, and it got progressively worse over time.

It was the ignition pickup, as triplejohn said, a 5 minute job to replace, part cost $75.
 

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Sooo-ignition pick up/ sensor to check next. Let me get this right-it's the wire coming down into the right hand side engine cover. Take cover off, replace sensor, put new gasket on (plus drain then fill oil). Is that it? I can't find any reference to this in my Haynes manual.

Here's a quote from Mike's Tigger Stuff: http://www.tauzero.co.uk/bikes/tiggers.html#igniter

Ignition pick-up sensor

This happens to all the T3 Triumphs, not just the Tiggers. The pickup has been changed for more recent bikes, so the problem may have been cured.

Classic symptoms - the bike warms up, stutters briefly and cuts out. After cooling off for 5 minutes or so, the bike will start again, only to cut out as it gets hot. Make sure, before spending the money (£30) on a new pick-up, that it's not due to a blocked petrol cap vent. Remember to buy a gasket when you buy the new pickup, and if you can't find the feeler gauge to set the gap between the rotor and the pickup, the old gasket works as a rough-and-ready feeler gauge, being just the right thickness.

A slightly different manifestation is cutting out briefly, then carrying on. The cutting out lasts just a few seconds, and occurs more and more frequently.

Both of these sets of symptoms share one thing - the tacho will drop to zero when the engine stutters (unlike running out of petrol, where the tacho will keep showing engine speed).
 

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Sounds similar in symptoms to my current problem.

First, a coil went. Replaced coil. Misfire on another cylinder. Replace all coils. And spark plugs. Add Redex to the fuel to clean things out a bit.

Still not right. Misfire when given throttle-so much so that the engine can die. And it usually dies when I'm coasting to a stop.

Next, I'll clean the gauze on the fuel filter and do what triumphJan suggests-get rid of the non-return valve.

Strangely, if I turn the ignition on and off, or the kill switch on and off, it r4starts straight away.

I'm beginning to think ECU. Ouch.
your symptoms sound identical to what I experienced, except when I turned the bike off, I would need to let it cool for a fw minutes, then it would start right up like nothing was wrong, that was until it heated up again . . . I would try replacing the pickup, seems like that is a common problem on these bikes.

joe
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did it again!

Happened again this time within 500 feet of the last time (how weird is that?).
This time I did look close at what went on.
Tach dropped to zero while engine still spinning.
Oil press light came on.
when I rolled to a stop I put the bike in neutral.
Neutral light came on.
Cycled kill switch/nothing
sidestand down then up/nothing
Then I noticed the engine wouldn't crank unless the clutch was pulled in BUT the sidestand WAS up and neutral light WAS on.
All this happened within one minute and the bike restarted and ran fine.
Looking at the wiring diagram the neutral switch AND sidestand switch would have had to fail momentarily at the same time (doubtful).
I worry now that the igniter may be acting up. I also don't know what logic is within the igniter.
Does anyone think that bypassing the sidestand and neutral safeties at the igniter will do it?
I've been lucky so far since buzzing down the freeway and having your engine switch off on you can be dangerous.................Ya think?
 

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Happened again this time within 500 feet of the last time (how weird is that?).
This time I did look close at what went on.
Tach dropped to zero while engine still spinning.
Oil press light came on.
when I rolled to a stop I put the bike in neutral.
Neutral light came on.
Cycled kill switch/nothing
sidestand down then up/nothing
Then I noticed the engine wouldn't crank unless the clutch was pulled in BUT the sidestand WAS up and neutral light WAS on.
All this happened within one minute and the bike restarted and ran fine.
Looking at the wiring diagram the neutral switch AND sidestand switch would have had to fail momentarily at the same time (doubtful).
I worry now that the igniter may be acting up. I also don't know what logic is within the igniter.
Does anyone think that bypassing the sidestand and neutral safeties at the igniter will do it?
I've been lucky so far since buzzing down the freeway and having your engine switch off on you can be dangerous.................Ya think?
Use a multimeter to test the igniter.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
"Use a multimeter to test the igniter."

I'm not sure what you mean.
I don't know the wiring inside the igniter so that would make it difficult for me to troubleshoot.
Also the problem goes away (I hate intermitent problems!) so everything will look fine now.
 

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"Use a multimeter to test the igniter."

I'm not sure what you mean.
I don't know the wiring inside the igniter so that would make it difficult for me to troubleshoot.
Also the problem goes away (I hate intermitent problems!) so everything will look fine now.
From Haynes:
trace the wiring back to the two pin connector. Disconnect. Using a multimeter set at ohms x100 scale, measure the resistance between the black and red wires. it should read 530 ohms or within 10%. If there is no measurable resistance, there's a short circuit. Infinite resistance= an open circuit.
 
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