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Discussion Starter #1
I posted this deep in another thread and thought it might be of some help and easier to find as a seperate thread. This is not "science." It is what has worked for me for about 50 years.

I ride all winter long - not usually long rides, but still do NOT like to put up a bike. For what its worth I do a few things with the bikes in the cold weather, but not much. It takes about 3 weeks for the gas in the float bowls to start to deposit gum so.....

1. I always run Sta-Bil in all the bikes from Nov 1 until spring, because you never know when you might not get any clear roads for at least that long. And if the carbs don't have stabilized gas in them then you have to add it and start the bikes to get it down there, etc. which I don't like to do unless I run them long enough to get all the condensation out of the system, ie: 15-30 miles, 30 minutes minimum.

2. I keep a 2 1/2 gal can of stabilized 89 octane in the garage at all times and top off the tanks when I return from every ride. That way I don't have to worry about condensation building up in the top of the tank in an unheated garage.

3. I have a Schumacher 1.5 volt battery maintainer and the pigtail quick connects on all the bikes and the lawn tractor and rotate the maintainer from one to the other about every 4 or 5 days.

4. I check the air in the tires every time I ride because pressure can vary widely between temps and tires seem to me to lose more air in the winter (that sounds a bit stupid even as I write it, but it seems every time I check the pressure in the winter at least one of the bikes has lost some pressure. Ah well, it makes me feel like I am doing something.)

5. If it is really cold, below freezing, I place a quartz heater about 18" from the engine of the bike I am going to ride and let it bake for 30 minutes before I start it. Engines are pretty smart about some things, but I haven't found one yet that didn't think after that treatment that it was in Miami and started on the first dab of the button.

6. At the beginning of the riding season I run three tanks of gas through each bike with MMO in the gas to really clean out any residues that might have gotten into the fuel system.

That's about it.

Happy winter riding everyone.

Monte :-D
 

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thanks for the tips monte...i didn't want to do the big button up the bike thing
whats mmo?
robin
 

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Monte, you are dating us grey beards. There is a whole generation that never used Marvel Mystery Oil, STP nor saw dust in a differential.hahaha

A little Marvel is great in air tools also.

Good to see you back on the air Monte!

BobW
 

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many thanks for those tips, Monty - I ride throughout the year too, though our winters aren't so severe as yours up there, we don't really get snowed in much, being near the sea. Just the weather is extremely quirky and changeable (even in summer now I think of it...) But sometimes the bikes are laid up for 2-3 weeks, and I've found similar things - like tyres go down, batteries get sluggis, and fuel loses its bang for starting... Anyway, it's an excellent regime for winter care and guaranteeing your ride's on call when you just gotta do it, no matter the weather... - all the best - Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, Bob, grey beards is a nice term, but "white" beard fits my own case these days.

Kids: MMO is, as Bob says, Marvel Mystery Oil. Available at Auto Zone, Advance Auto etc, probably even WallyWorld.

It is an additive to gas or oil (DON'T add it to your oil unless you are going to use it to purge all the gunk out of the motor prior to a tear apart).

It is really just a solvent, and a very good one. A newer similar product is Techron, but it costs a lot more and does the same thing. MMO desolves impurities and deposits in carbs, on valves, etc and sends them to be combusted and out the exhaust. It has been around even longer than me and it really works. In fact, I try to tell (to no avail) everybody to NEVER tear into a carb that is not working right before running a couple of tanks of MMO through it to clean out the jets, etc. Most of the time if you do that you can avoid a carb teardown.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

MOnte :cool:
 

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Good tips, Monte, et.al.
I've used MMO in the petrol since I picked up my old Norton a few years ago. The guru that helps me with it recommended it partialy because he thinks it helps give upper cylinder lubrication (valves/seats) for the old bikes built for use with leaded fuel. I use one capful for each fillup on the Commando, which has a 2.5 gal tank. The tank size is just right for the Norton, 'cause you need to dismount about that time to shake blood back in the hands - due to the vibration-and it has isolastic engine mounts.
 

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On 2006-12-07 13:53, mecscc wrote:
Yeah, Bob, grey beards is a nice term, but "white" beard fits my own case these days.

Kids: MMO is, as Bob says, Marvel Mystery Oil. Available at Auto Zone, Advance Auto etc, probably even WallyWorld.

It is an additive to gas or oil (DON'T add it to your oil unless you are going to use it to purge all the gunk out of the motor prior to a tear apart).

It is really just a solvent, and a very good one. A newer similar product is Techron, but it costs a lot more and does the same thing. MMO desolves impurities and deposits in carbs, on valves, etc and sends them to be combusted and out the exhaust. It has been around even longer than me and it really works. In fact, I try to tell (to no avail) everybody to NEVER tear into a carb that is not working right before running a couple of tanks of MMO through it to clean out the jets, etc. Most of the time if you do that you can avoid a carb teardown.

Thanks for the comments everyone.

MOnte :cool:
People around longer than you .... and me..? Hmmmm. Well, they're out there, but .....

Bob

Monte - glad you're back!

[ This message was edited by: ohiorider on 2006-12-07 17:49 ]
 

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My ol' man grew up in the oil patch, and they used a lot of MMO--the oil company he worked for bought it in 55 gal drums. I use it every winter in my autos' crankcases--one quart with 3 or 4 quarts of dino oil, depending on the engine. My '90 honda accord has 175000 miles on it and my PU has 135000 miles. Dad used to put straight MMO in the auto my mother drove during the winter months. I tore both engines down when they had over 100000 miles (building hotrods) and neither engine had even what I would consider normal wear on the lower ends. The rod journels miked std on both engines and the back mains were .002" under and the front mains were .001" under while the other mains miked std.

I have never used MMO in a motorcycle; however, if I rode one the way some do, I would probably use it to clean out the sludge. I have no idea of how it mixes with synthetic oils.

When adding MMO to fuel, remember that you can lower the octane some--the more you add, the more you lower the octane.

I have used MMO all my life to clean guns--especially 22 rim fire guns. It is a very good lubricant for guns, also.

Monte, If I forget to add sta-bil to my tank--I better say I just didn't do it cause I thought the Wx would remain better--why can't I just add the stabil to the tank and then drain the carbs...open the petcock and fill the carbs, close the petcock and drain the carbs again...open the petcock and fill the carbs.
Wouldn't this accomplish the same thing as adding the sta-bil and riding for 50 miles? I'm dangerous when I try to think outside of the box--I only do it when a problem occurs because of one of my screwups or neglect. :-D

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Larry: always good to think outside the box.

My recommendations are for those who ride all winter. You certainly could add stabil to the gas and then drain the carbs but that sounds too much like work to me. I only use it because around here there may be times when I cant ride for up to a month due to weather and I don't WANT to mess with draining the carbs -- because I don't know when I will be able to ride again. Thus at least I have stabilized gas in the carbs between rides. If you know that you can ride at least every three weeks then I wouldn't bother with the stabil.

If I were putting the bike up for the whole winter I would add the stabil and either run the bike long enough to be sure it was in the carbs, or drain them. I would also increase air pressure to 50#s in both tires and put carpet samples under them to keep the moisture in the concrete from the tires. This will keep them from developing flat spots from sitting a long time. And I would keep the battery on a maintainer. AND, pull the plugs and squirt some oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over a few times to distribute it (or you can blow some money on fogging oil), replace the plugs so dirt won't get in. And, finally, spray WD-40 on all parts that might rust, avoiding brakes, etc. and wax all painted surfaces. I also would cover the bike with an old sheet or other breathable cover: NOT a bike cover like you use for rain on trips - it traps way too much moisture.

But I seldon hibernate my bikes. Better to keep them running, then you have fewer problems in the spring.

Just opinion and experience. This is only what works for me.

MOnte



And BobW is right: you miss out on the ride! :cool:
 

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:-D :-D :-D WxMan is predicting mid-to-upper 50's all week. Won't need to mess with the Sta-Bil. :-D Time to R I D E. Most of the snow and ice should melt tomorrow.

Larry
 

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what about just starting it every few days and letting it run twenty minutes or so? it's not that cold here yet, not to me anyway, but there are days when i'd rather just drive and not bundle up or a ride.
 

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FFS, Don't let it sit and idle for 20 minutes. That's just about the worst thing you could do for an air cooled engine.

Darcy
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Amen, Darcy.

Phil: its easy to overheat a bike that just sits at idle. Even a few minutes can do it. Plus you don't engage the other moving parts that need to warm up and be used: tranny, rear bearings, brakes, chain, etc.

Finally, only by running it well above idle for at least 15-20 minutes will get most of the condensation out of the exhausts - which I would not recommend doing with a bike just sitting stationary.

I guess I'd just say that if you aren't going to ride it then do the necessaries to put it up for the winter.

Again, what works for me. Others may disagree.

Monte :cool:
 

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On 2006-12-10 03:01, DickBender wrote:
FFS, Don't let it sit and idle for 20 minutes. That's just about the worst thing you could do for an air cooled engine.

Darcy
Very good point, Darcy. On some of the original BMW full-faired R1100RTs, doing this would cause the part of the fairing closest to the exhaust pipes to melt.
 

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thanks for the info. this is my first winter with the bike and i'm hoping I can ride through the season. winters are fairly mild in my part of VA.
 

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IMHO, it doesn't matter whether it's air-cooled or liquid-cooled, motorcycle or auto; starting a motor every few days and letting it idle for 20 minutes or more is about the worst punishment one can give an engine.

Larry
 

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Hey Monte...

I enjoyed the informative post.I was wanting to
know is , what did you use before sta-bil came out?
Did you just use MMO?
I have road bikes scenes 1968 and have let them set up in the cold months and had to clean the trash out in the
spring.No a good way to do it. I can't remember there
being sta-bil around back in the 60's.

Thanks again
Jeff
 

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Trident, I think we used Siloo fuel treatment in our trucks, but I don't recall anything in the bikes. Seems like draining carbs along with MMO in the cylinders, pulling battery etc, reverse in spring. Always ended up soaking/cleaning carbs, clean adjust points etc. as part of start of season prep. Good old days, tickles my Amal just thinking of it....
 
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