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Are there any big bore kits available for the water cooled twins? Harley and Indian have them as an option. Wondering if Triumph will/does too. Anyone know?
 

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I haven’t seen any big bore kits for sale for the T120. I’ve only been around a short while here so take it fwiw. The only internal engine power adders I’ve seen for the T120 is from Raisch, they have cam, PCV, etc kits.
I’ll say if it’s more power you seek, go for it!! I haven’t seen anyone mention these Raisch kits for the T120 here. Maybe cause people are concerned about their warranty. I’d be interested in your results if you add the stage 4 kit.. :smile2:
 

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Triumph designed the Thunderbird so it could he bored out to 1700. Since the Storm was already a 1700, Triumph made this an option for the 1600s as a money grabber. I doubt there’s a kit planned for the 1200. If the motor can take it, any performance shop can do it. And put larger valves in. And tune it with a Power Commander.
 

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I haven’t seen any big bore kits for sale for the T120. I’ve only been around a short while here so take it fwiw. The only internal engine power adders I’ve seen for the T120 is from Raisch, they have cam, PCV, etc kits.
I’ll say if it’s more power you seek, go for it!! I haven’t seen anyone mention these Raisch kits for the T120 here. Maybe cause people are concerned about their warranty. I’d be interested in your results if you add the stage 4 kit.. :smile2:
You don't need big bore or expensive kits, just rework the cylinder head, power is there to be released.
I know I have done it.
 

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You don't need big bore or expensive kits, just rework the cylinder head, power is there to be released.
I know I have done it.
Not trying to be controversial, but since you quoted me, I’m not sure where I said anybody “needed” to do anything, big bore kits or otherwise. I didn’t say anything about heads either.. My reply was to the OP, not you.
 

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Not trying to be controversial, but since you quoted me, I’m not sure where I said anybody “needed” to do anything, big bore kits or otherwise. I didn’t say anything about heads either.. My reply was to the OP, not you.
OK, I do not understand your aggressive manner.
I was just trying to be helpful to members in general sharing info, I thought that is what we do here.
I will not make the mistake of quoting you again.
 

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OK, I do not understand your aggressive manner.
I was just trying to be helpful to members in general sharing info, I thought that is what we do here.
I will not make the mistake of quoting you again.
I did not mean to sound aggressive, sorry. But when you quote me and then start with “You don’t need” I think you’re talking to me. I thought you were putting words in my mouth.. I misunderstood your intent. :doublethumb
 

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Motors are an air pump, they need to breathe, opening both ends with porting, polishing, bigger valve area, longer dwell, unrestricting the intake, reasigning the fuel ratio, allowing the exhaust to flow you can gain HP/Torque but at what cost. On a 790/856 insralled kits with cam, rods, pistons, balanced crank, bigger carbs/injectors it can cost $6-8000 with labour.
Then there is the ECU on the EFI. Diminishing returns for money invested.
 

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The Thruxton will do 0-60 in roughly 3.2 seconds , top speed in 138-142 mph. You will spend mega bucks getting below 3 seconds and over 140 mph. An MT/FZ 10 is your bike, leave the beautifully tuned 1200 alone.

The stock Thruxton R is a beautiful machine and we'll tuned from the factory. The stock bike is more a 3.7 to 3.9 0 to 60 and with stock gearing 130-132 top speed machine in the real world with your average rider. Changing gearing and adding a quarter fairing might let you touch 138 mph but without more horsepower or aerodynamics the rider won't see over 140 mph. I have run just over 136 mph in a timed mile at Bonneville with (17T) and (37T) sprockets but only 130 ish with stock gearing.

While not claiming to be the fastest drag racer out there I have run the Thruxton R down the quarter mile a couple dozen times mostly with a GoPro and I have not got close to a 3.2 seconds 0-60. Maybe some 3.6-3.7 on the good side even when running an excellent 60 foot (1.871) and quarter mile runs (12.121).

I agree this bike would require some serious money to get just a medicore performance increase, factory did a great job with bike!
 

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The stock Thruxton R is a beautiful machine and we'll tuned from the factory. The stock bike is more a 3.7 to 3.9 0 to 60 and with stock gearing 130-132 top speed machine in the real world with your average rider. Changing gearing and adding a quarter fairing might let you touch 138 mph but without more horsepower or aerodynamics the rider won't see over 140 mph. I have run just over 136 mph in a timed mile at Bonneville with (17T) and (37T) sprockets but only 130 ish with stock gearing.

While not claiming to be the fastest drag racer out there I have run the Thruxton R down the quarter mile a couple dozen times mostly with a GoPro and I have not got close to a 3.2 seconds 0-60. Maybe some 3.6-3.7 on the good side even when running an excellent 60 foot (1.871) and quarter mile runs (12.121).

I agree this bike would require some serious money to get just a medicore performance increase, factory did a great job with bike!
The stats on "Motorcycle 0-60" website are run by people who do this all the time. It seems someone at some time has reached that 3.1-2. Also there is a Youboob vid where someone runs a 140mph, with error of -3-4n mph. Whenever I go through the multiple digital speed signs here the speedo is spot on. Whatever the numbers this is an awesome machine.
 

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The stock Thruxton R is a beautiful machine and we'll tuned from the factory. The stock bike is more a 3.7 to 3.9 0 to 60 and with stock gearing 130-132 top speed machine in the real world with your average rider. Changing gearing and adding a quarter fairing might let you touch 138 mph but without more horsepower or aerodynamics the rider won't see over 140 mph. I have run just over 136 mph in a timed mile at Bonneville with (17T) and (37T) sprockets but only 130 ish with stock gearing.

While not claiming to be the fastest drag racer out there I have run the Thruxton R down the quarter mile a couple dozen times mostly with a GoPro and I have not got close to a 3.2 seconds 0-60. Maybe some 3.6-3.7 on the good side even when running an excellent 60 foot (1.871) and quarter mile runs (12.121).

I agree this bike would require some serious money to get just a medicore performance increase, factory did a great job with bike!
The stats on "Motorcycle 0-60" website are run by people who do this all the time. It seems someone at some time has reached that 3.1-2. Also there is a Youboob vid where someone runs a 140mph, with error of -3-4n mph. Whenever I go through the multiple digital speed signs here the speedo is spot on. Whatever the numbers this is an awesome machine.
Yep I have read those times too maybe it is corrected for density of altitude. My 12.121 corrects to 11.615. I have a YouTube video showing my bike running smack in the middle of the zero of 140 for about a mile, but it was actually electronically timed 136.1 mph with a quarter fairing.

Even though the bike isn't a dragster the bike is easy to ride at the drag strip, very consistent and trouble free. I think I beat my buddy on his Rocket 3 about 17 times in a row. I have had faster bikes, smoother bikes, more comfortable bikes but none better.
 

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Yep I have read those times too maybe it is corrected for density of altitude. My 12.121 corrects to 11.615. I have a YouTube video showing my bike running smack in the middle of the zero of 140 for about a mile, but it was actually electronically timed 136.1 mph with a quarter fairing.

Even though the bike isn't a dragster the bike is easy to ride at the drag strip, very consistent and trouble free. I think I beat my buddy on his Rocket 3 about 17 times in a row. I have had faster bikes, smoother bikes, more comfortable bikes but none better.
I researched and found CYCLE WORLD actually posted a 3.1 0-60?? Some tester hey!
 

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As I get older my 0-60 times seem to get lower and lower..:|

But......

My DB9S @ 180kg wet with 162 HP and 120 Nm would probably manage <3.2 but my R would not cut it.

I weigh about 80kg in full kit so if we have any doubters here just call me and we can line them up.

My 916 SP1 ('94) and SP3 ('97) were both under 3 and I would have put them both closer to 2.6 - 2.8.

That is why I think 3.2 for an R is a very, very long bow.

916SP3, 851 Tricolour factory kit and MV 750F4.
 

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As I get older my 0-60 times seem to get lower and lower..<img src="http://www.triumphrat.net/images/TriumphRat_2015/smilies/tango_face_plain.png" border="0" alt="" title="Serious" class="inlineimg" />

But......

My DB9S @ 180kg wet with 162 HP and 120 Nm would probably manage <3.2 but my R would not cut it.

I weigh about 80kg in full kit so if we have any doubters here just call me and we can line them up.

My 916 SP1 ('94) and SP3 ('97) were both under 3 and I would have put them both closer to 2.6 - 2.8.

That is why I think 3.2 for an R is a very, very long bow.

916SP3, 851 Tricolour factory kit and MV 750F4.
Very nice collection you had there. I wish the guys publishing the times would occasionally mention the specific testing methodology because some of their performance results don't seem realistic.

Maybe if I had a bike that I didn't care about and had 8-10 shots in a row.... Nah probably not. I guess the only reason it bothers is because I can't get the advertised performance despite a couple dozen tries. The other thing that is a me problem is most people who read the magazine performance numbers don't think twice about it.

In 1970 I remember reading how a Kawasaki 500 would turn a 12.1 quarter mile. It was true as long as the 115 lb Tony Nicosia was riding it. No doubt the testers are much quicker than most of us but I am not buying 3.1 seconds for this bike unless I see it.
 
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