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I have a friend - it's quiet, it's CLEAN, it's maintenance free, it's down on pull out power, it's practical, and we thinks it should last around 100K miles. I like it, and wish I could afford it.
 

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It's funny how a bunch of the HD guys with belts opt for the chain conversion and some of us Trump guys wish for a belt.

I personally see no problem with the chain.
 

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It's funny how a bunch of the HD guys with belts opt for the chain conversion and some of us Trump guys wish for a belt.

I personally see no problem with the chain.
My thoughts exactly :]
Must be because there is no real practical difference... other than matters of taste and personal (good or bad) experiences.
 

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I find my Speedmaster to be a bit "abrupt" going on or off the throttle, accompanied by a clank sound from the rear wheel/sprocket. I think this is probably due to slack in the chain (I've checked it and it is a little outside of specifications, but not by much and it seems to be a little worse on/off the throttle than when I bought it 6 weeks ago - I'll be buying a torque wrench and 24mm socket this weekend).

Would a belt drive conversion improve this abruptness or am I on the wrong track and it's a tuning issue instead?

BTW a belt on a Bonnie just seems wrong. Belts are for cruisers and I'm not even sure about putting one on the Speedmaster.
 

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If you've got a manual, check the sprocket carrier for loose studs and maybe even the rubbers in the cush drive. That is, if it's like the Bonnie.

I doubt your chain is causing the clunk sound. I'ld jack it up and find the problem beore it gets worse.
Good luck
 

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Having owned several belt drive bikes; H-D's, Buells, and now a BMW F800s, I've become a big fan of the belt. Quieter and smoother drive train, clean, almost no maintenance, no need to carry lub and tolls for adjustment when touring, lighter then a shaft. Some of my belts had about 40K plus miles on the original belt with no issues.

I'd like to see Triumph make more use of the belt drive they just introduced on the Thunderbird, perhaps on an updated Sprint ST and Tiger.

Regards, Paul
 

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Belt drive

For those of us looking for more performance from our Bonnies. Has anyone seen the Newbonneville belt drive?
Has anyone fitted or used one yet?
If so. What do you think of it and will it hold up under the extra torque of a Wiseco 900 conversion kit?

Anyone.

Jon
 

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Hi,

The belt drive kit seems interesting...no more chain lube and dirty rear wheel, specially on long trips when you have to ride under rain for hours and lubricate the chain every 60 miles !

I also would like to hear about someone who installed it. Also, what about the possibility to find a new strap or other parts in a few years from now ?
 

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Not sure you would get more performance. From what I've read you lose HP to the rear wheel due to a small amount of slippage compared to a chain drive.
I think it's a toothed belt, also called Synchronous Belt Drive. No slippage there. They have an efficiency of 98% and can maintain it over virtually their whole life.
Chain drives also chalk up close to 98% efficiency but only when they're new, clean, properly lubricated and tensioned. This soon drops off in real-life driving.
 

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BBNYC,
I have recalled that belt drives eat up more HP than a chain drive...
I should look it up and get back w/ the info...
Probably quieter though...
No lube and what about adjustment?
Curious...
 

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I'm not really sure about any of that. Don't know about the power figures. The main advantage I believe is that it is pretty much maintenance free. you don't have to lube but I'm not sure how often you have to adjust it. I would imagine not too often after a break in period?
 

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I'll probably never do this but if I DID, I'd want to either learn about the final drive bearing design or see how it is holding up long term for a few folks after the conversion. The belt is going to maintain side pressure on that bearing that was not there with the chain. (I know the article says it is "Low tension") Maybe it makes no difference or maybe it does...... I don't know how the bearing is designed on original equipment.
Just something to think about... but maybe someone already knows... can they chime in if they already know?
 

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I find my Speedmaster to be a bit "abrupt" going on or off the throttle, accompanied by a clank sound from the rear wheel/sprocket. I think this is probably due to slack in the chain (I've checked it and it is a little outside of specifications, but not by much and it seems to be a little worse on/off the throttle than when I bought it 6 weeks ago - I'll be buying a torque wrench and 24mm socket this weekend).

Would a belt drive conversion improve this abruptness or am I on the wrong track and it's a tuning issue instead?

BTW a belt on a Bonnie just seems wrong. Belts are for cruisers and I'm not even sure about putting one on the Speedmaster.
Ive read on other threads concerning the air injection system, that its the cause of that jumpiness coming off a closed throttle. Im gonna have the AI removed at my six thousand mile service. as a novice rider I find it to be sort of unsafe.
 

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Ive read on other threads concerning the air injection system, that its the cause of that jumpiness coming off a closed throttle.
Removal of the AI helps a bit, but doesn't cure the on-off throttle snatchiness completely.

Fiddling with the closed loop mixture by manipulating the output of the O2 sensors virtually eliminates the surging you get when running on a steady low throttle at low speeds, such as keeping up with dense traffic, pottering around in a high gear on country roads or manouvering in car parks, etc. Snatching is still there though.

My next experiment to eliminate that is somehow damping the throttle stop. I can't think of a way to do it mechanically, so I might have a go at introducing some electronic damping by modifying the signal from the TPS (throttle position sensor).

I suspect it'll be a failure, and that snatchiness is inherent on intake systems that use a butterfly-type valve, i.e. CV carbs or EFI throttle bodies. Not so noticeable on cars due to their softer power delivery characteristics, heavier flywheels, etc.
 
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