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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of my winter mods is to finally add an auxiliary fusebox to run some heated gear, as well as maybe a farkle or two.

Are there any fuseboxes that are recommended over others? Any to avoid? Installation tips? I'm looking for a waterproof unit with plenty of circuit capacity.

I'd like to install a relay to the auxiliary fusebox so that the whole thing shuts down when the key is off. Is this what other people have done? I'm assuming most people mount the box right under the seat.



:???:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm gathering that the BlueSeas 5025 6-circuit fusebox with negative bus is the way to go. I'd be interested in any Classics owners that have installed this unit, or another.

Thanks. :)
 

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What are you trying to hook up?

Normally a fuse box for automotive (motorcycle) use has a positive (+12) buss and has 'dust cover' rather than 'waterproof' protection. The fuse block in the Triumphs is of the 'dust cover' type.

My experience with 'waterproof' stuff on vehicles is that once the water gets in, it never comes out!

From what I've gleaned of the Blue Seas unit, it's intended and designed for marine use and carries the ATC/ATO fuses.

If you'll give me an idea of what you want to do and what sort of current ratings, I may be able to give you a source for a lighter and more compact unit that uses the ATM fuses.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure yet what I'll be running or the loads. Here is a tentative list:

1. Motolights. Existing load which is now coming right off the battery with an inline fuse and relay. I guess this could stay the way it is, but I may put it in the fusebox to lessen the number of direct battery connections. Load is 100-watts.

2. Heated gear. This is one of the main reasons I'd want to do this. I'm looking to get a heated jacket liner for my bday or Christmas, as well as maybe some heated gloves or other items. I'm not sure yet what the total load would be for this.

3. Heated grips. If I get the heated gear, I'll probably not do the heated grips, but I want to allow for this as a future possibility.

4. Aux. outlet(s) for a GPS or other minor electronic devices.

Here is a link to the Blue Seas 5025 specs for reference.



[ This message was edited by: Rincewind on 2006-11-13 09:49 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The loads on the heated gear, using the Gerbing's as an example:

Jacket liner - 77W
Pant liner - 44W
Gloves - 27W
Socks - 27W

Total - 175W

Though I'd probably not get all that stuff at once, that would be the total capacity I'd want to work around (for the heated gear portion).

So that makes:

1. Motolights - 100W
2. Heated Gear - 175W allowed
3. Heated Grips - 40W allowed
4. Misc. Electronics - 10W?

So my theoretical total would be around 325W, or 27A at 12V.






[ This message was edited by: Rincewind on 2006-11-13 10:22 ]
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Gold Wing! Doh! My dad rides one of those giants. No thanks, really. :tongue:

I wasn't aware of the 25-amp rating on the Classics alternators, thanks for that Jim. I see I'll have to prioritize and reconsider this project.

25-amps is 300-watts at 12-volts. I thought I had more wiggle room than that. This has probably been asked before, but what is the approximate draw from the bike itself (ignition and lighting)? Something like 60-watts on the high beams, plus ignition - is it something like 100-watts?

:???:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
On 2006-11-13 12:49, denny wrote:
And what is the capacity of the new Sprint ST alternator?
I might be better off to get different bike.
A quick search of this site gave an answer of 35-amps.

link

I'm thinking the same thing, that a different bike may be in order rather than trying to fit a square peg in a round hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, Jim, you mentioned that there are other, non-marine fuse boxes that may be better. Could you recommend a brand to me?

I was recommended the Certech box elsewhere. I'm most concerned with clearances under the seat. Has anyone else used a model they can recommend will work?

I figure I can diversify and limit my loads, and still be under the 25-amp rating. The Widder heated gear, for a full set-up, is only 108-watts. And like you said, Jim, that load will be easily reduced by a heat troller. I can also pick-up 30-watts if I switch-out my Motolights to 35-watt lamps, or gain more by switching them off.

Thanks again for the advice.
 

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So, Jim, you mentioned that there are other, non-marine fuse boxes that may be better. Could you recommend a brand to me?
I didn't say better, I'm just saying that you don't need a sealed unit with an input for 8-gauge wire. :wink:

www.Wirthco.com has a couple that look good for your application. There's a small panel type with four fuses and push-on connectors and a strip type with a dust cover that might also do the job for the application.


There are two approaches to preventing corrosion on vehicle electrics: sealed and exposed.

The exposed system works because water can evaporate quickly and doesn't get trapped. The sealed system works only if the seals are perfect. Otherwise water tends to get in and can't get out like a leaking tail light on a car or boat trailer.

The exposed system is compact, inexpensive and requires a bit of grease on the terminals for protection. The sealed systems are bulky and just plain expensive.


About 15 years ago I designed and built a proportional controller for my Widders. It monitored the free air temperature/wind chill and adjusted the heating accordingly.

In thinking about it, there's a way to use something similar with an 'override' feature that would feed power to the heated garb while stealing power from a lower priority accessory like accessory lights. The accessory would go dim or out, but the heated clothes would have as much power as needed.

Do you think something like that would be marketable?

Jim
 

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For that kind of farkle, yes. Like the audio feedback loops on Goldwings (and I think HD's now). Even a cage or two are using it. If you look at what Gerbering's (and another outfit, not Widder) get for the controllers, you could maybe come out ok.

When you factor in Mama power, that changes it all.

I wired my Gerbering's into the battery tender connector (order the older adapter cable and I think I had a spare cable for the battery tender; with a little spice-n-dice it was all good). I am onmly running the full sleeve liner and the gloves (socks sound interesting, but down the road). I find that the gloves are the part that gets used at near or full bore.
 
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